Ultimate Polish

[davey g-force]

Re: Ultimate Polish

^^Nice!

Thanks for the review..

[mb911]

Re: Ultimate Polish

Ok...

I used Ultimate Polish on the trunk and rear bumper of a black car before I applied Ultimate Wax.

I applied polish by hand. It goes on better than any polish/glaze I have used previously. Like the wax, it is rather runny.

It's fun to put it on, and I would describe it a bit like a liquid butter too.

The removal, if fully dried, is just slightly difficult. THerefore, just get it wiped up before it dries, and its removal will then be similar to other pure polishes like #7, but somewhat easier.

Overall, a fine polish. A polish that is fun to use and seems less messy.

The oils obviously darkened the finish and looked very nice after using it.

I would say this is a modern #7. A bit easier to use.

[Detale]

Re: Ultimate Polish

Not sure if this has been asked but which pad would I use with this, yellow or black or both depending on the need?

Black would likely be the most common use with this product, but I'm sure a polishing pad would do well too.

[mattya802]

Re: Ultimate Polish

Not sure if this has been asked but which pad would I use with this, yellow or black or both depending on the need?

[Mongoose]

Re: Ultimate Polish

Not sure if this has been asked but which pad would I use with this, yellow or black or both depending on the need?

[seb1294]

Re: Ultimate Polish

when is this product going to go on sale?

[glossy]

Re: Ultimate Polish

I see some online places say its in stock
Hope it gets to amazon.com quickly so we can get some shipped to South Africa, its nice and warm here and the cars are screaming for a good polish and wax

[Detale]

Re: Ultimate Polish

Michael,

Can UP be followed up with non-meguiars LSP's without bonding issues?

Also, since it noticeably darkens the paint, would that not be so good for metallics?

[rocketman7]

Re: Ultimate Polish

Thank you Michael. Just what I needed! Great stuff!

Glenn

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Ultimate Polish

Glenn, if you look through the posts in the Pictures from Saturday Classes section of the forum you'll see a wide variety of vehicles that we corrected using the G110v2, Ultimate Compound and the W8207 Soft Buff 2.0 foam polishing pad. That's our go-to combo for the classes, and it really hasn't let us down yet!

[rocketman7]

Re: Ultimate Polish

Sorry mate. That's Mirror Glaze #3 Professional Machine Glaze. Think I've already answered my own question, black finishing pad for finishing polish/glaze, IF results with the UC are satisfactory?

Glenn

[mattya802]

Re: Ultimate Polish

Is the SoftBuf 2.0 yellow polishing pad appropriate for use with this product?

Yup, that would be the recommended pad.

And if so would I use the same pad to follow with MG #3, already purchased, or move to the black finishing pad? Hope I'm not too far off the mark here. Thank you for this wonderful forum!

Glenn

That will probably depend on the paint and the issues you're trying to solve. What is MG #3 though?

[rocketman7]

Re: Ultimate Polish

OK, New member and 1st post here. As strictly a hobbyist, with a new PC DA polisher, I'm assembling my "arsenal" of tools and have a couple of questions about Ultimate Compound. Unable to find it mentioned specifically as a 2010 or 2011 product I would like to know what pad would be appropriate for it. Brochure says UC is DA safe, but the SoftBuf cutting pad specifies Rotary use only. Is the SoftBuf 2.0 yellow polishing pad appropriate for use with this product? And if so would I use the same pad to follow with MG #3, already purchased, or move to the black finishing pad? Hope I'm not too far off the mark here. Thank you for this wonderful forum!

Glenn

[BOWTIE10]

Re: Ultimate Polish

If a cut level, e.g. Mirror Glaze polishes" were assigned to this product, how would it be rated?

Similar to #80 or #205?

[mattya802]

Re: Ultimate Polish

Will the polishing oils prevent it from being a good base before applying a sealant?

How would you rate the cut of Ultimate Polish vs #80?

Taken from the UW thread:

I just stepped out of our head chemist's office (VP of R&D) where we were discussing this very topic - I wanted to make sure I conveyed this information as accurately as possible since we know it's a subject of much debate in detailing forums.

You are correct in assuming that if you had a layer of oil on top of the paint that the wax/sealant would not adhere to it. But in order for that to happen you would need a perfectly flat, non porous surface to begin with. And paint is anything but perfectly flat and non porous. When you apply a pure polish you are, in fact, feeding those oils down into the pores of the paint. We know that in those debates on detailing forums many people insist that paint is "dry" and "impermeable" but that is flat out not correct. Even factory paint that has been oven cured still has some moisture to it in the form of whatever solvents, etc make up that paint. And over time, with exposure to the elements, that paint will continue to desiccate, sometimes to the point of failure.

That's why products like M105 that were designed to be used on fresh paint work best in that situation. Anyone who has experienced very fast drying and dusting of M105, or even gumming up of the product, needs look no further than the condition of the paint they're using it on. For me personally, I think back to that Ferrari 360 Modena I buffed out a couple of years ago where M105 did just that - it turned to a gummy mess almost immediately. Why? Because the paint (a clear coat, by the way, not single stage) was so dried out that it literally sucked the moisture out of M105 and into the paint. That can be a tough concept for those who believe paint to be completely "dry" to wrap their heads around. But switching to an oil rich product, in this case M80, did wonders for correcting that poor Ferrari. Spray a car, wet sand it a day or two later, then compound it with M105 and you won't see a ton of dust like you will when D/A correcting a used car that hasn't been pampered its whole life. And it's all down to the porosity and dryness of the paint.

So, what does that have to do with the question at hand? Simple - a pure polish applied to a paint surface, especially one that has experienced repeated exposure to the elements and is a bit more "weathered", will get down into those pores and effectively smooth out the finish. Applying a wax or sealant on top of that will actually give the wax/sealant a flatter, smoother base to lay over but still give plenty of paint surface for it to bond to. The rest of the final curing of the product locks it down over the polish. So the polish isn't actually creating a layer of oil on top of the paint, but rather filling the pores of the paint. A gel coat works the exact same way, but on a larger scale, so to speak. If you've ever worked on a dried out gel coat and applied a pure polish to it, you can literally watch that stuff get sucked into the finish. That is because gel coats are much thicker and far more porous than automotive paint, but the mechanism of what's happening is identical.

On a brand spanking new car fresh off the assembly line, a pure polish may make very little difference to the finish because the paint surface is still pretty "tight", meaning it hasn't yet aged, dried, opened up. Even applying a coat of wax often doesn't make a huge visual difference to paint that is that new. Now go to the opposite extreme - a badly oxidized single stage paint system, one where a red car now looks pink. A wax alone can make a huge visual improvement, but a pure polish will do much, much more. Obviously a proper paint cleaner is really called for in that case, but just looking at pure polishes it's obvious how much more dramatic the reaction is here compared to a fresh paint job. And in between these two extremes you'll find varying degrees of dryness, porosity, etc and the response to a pure polish will change accordingly. Clear coat systems may not be quite as dramatic, but the same sort of changes are still taking place.