#80 + NXT Tech Wax

[scrub]

I upped my ratio and tried it this weekend too. It did a little better I think. Extra's strength is why I was using safe degreaser at 10:1. Extra was pretty strong for my tastes. I would dilute half and half with water.

[zey]

Hey Scrub, I find that EXTRA's spray nozzle is focusing abit too much. It'll be better if it can spread the product and cover more area. I will preserve my bottle of EXTRA for interior cleaning. Safe D would be used for exterior and engine cleaning.

[scrub]

I don't recall that particular problem with Extra. It's been a while since I used Extra though.

[zey]

My new toy



More stories coming up!

[scrub]

Sweet can't wait to hear about it.

[zey]

Hey scrub, I managed to try out the machine just now on a panel. Being a timid first time rotary buffer user, I started out with 600rpm. With some splatters here and there, I realised that this is caused by me misting too much of FI on the pad. As I go along, I increased the speed to 900rpm and #83 breaks down faster. I followed what is taught inside MG's video and it's very efficient and safe. The finish turned out to be very smooth, with lots of blemishes, blisters, scratches, swirls being removed. The only thing which remains is the pitting (could be due to acid rain etching or industrial fallout etching). I finished it up with a layer of #80 to remove light swirls created by #83 and the finish turned out to be flawless - just like a mirror! I will try to practice more so that in future I will dare to use the W-7006 cutting pad and if required, #85 Diamond Cut 2.0.

[scrub]

Awesome. Thanks for writing that up.

Just to ask there were holograms left behind after using #83? And #80 with the rotary and polish pad fixed them?

Thanks again and good luck with your new toy. I'll be the last one on MOL not to have and use a rotary!

[gb387]

Re: #80 + NXT Tech Wax

Originally posted by zey
Hi all, I bought a bottle of #80 Speed Glaze on last Thursday and finally today I have the time to try on one door panel. Below is the picture of the combi:



Prior to polishing, I QD'ed the panel and below is the photo of how it looks like. Notice some mild swirls and scratches.



I applied a single pass of #80 @ 5000opm. It takes me roughly 2 minutes to breakdown the diminishing abrasives, which is significantly faster than #83. Notice the amount of swirls reduced.



Lastly, I applied a thin layer of NXT Tech Wax. Due to hot weather (30 Celcius), I buff it off after 10 minutes. Looks flawless!



This whole quickie process took me less than 30 minutes. I believe the result would be even better if I apply #83, #80, Deep Crystal Step 2 Polish and 2 layers of NXT Tech Wax. I'll do these when I have long weekends...

p.s. Finally got my Meguiar's decal from my dealer (Thanks Matthew!)

This is great! Nice results!

I gotta get a decal!

[zey]

Just to ask there were holograms left behind after using #83? And #80 with the rotary and polish pad fixed them?

Scrub, it's not really holograms left behind, but just very mild swirls (only noticeable on dark colours). A single pass of #80 with rotary and W-8006 fixed it easily within seconds. No sweat!

gb387, thanks for the comments!

[scrub]

Thanks for clarification.

I had been thinking about the proper way to learn how to use a rotary and you summed it up quite well. Let me try to show you my thought process.

Low RPM + Polish pad + Not to aggressive product + Light to almost no pressure =

Of course there are other factors, but this should get me started. Are you concerned with buffing through the clear? I think it would be difficult to do with the above method.

Good job and where's the updated pics?

Thanks again.

[zey]

Scrub, your formula is excellent! However, I need to add-in one more item into your formula, therefore it yields:

Low RPM + Polish pad + Not too aggressive product + Light to almost no pressure + Watch How to Remove Paint Defects Video several times =

I don't think it's easy to buff through the clearcoat if you follow the steps properly. Last time when I was a newbie, I tried to use a polishing cloth and Autoglym Paint Renovator to remove a bird lime etch mark, and guess what? It buffed through the clearcoat due to the concentrated pressure and excessive abrasive product being used.

I will be sending my car to a Meguiar's detailing center coming weekend for paint correction due to industrial fallout/ chemical etching. After that I will take a photo of it...

[Tim Lingor]

Hi Zey,

Thanks for the updates! Great work!!

One comment...moving from #80 or #83 to #85 Diamond Cut 2.0 is a BIG step! The difference in cutting ability is more than most people realize. And...it is easy to burn through the clear coat when using a rotary buffer.

Normally one would use the #85 with the W-4000 Wool Pad (usually #84 CPC with the W-7006 Cutting Pad) with the rotary spinning 1750 RPM to remove wet sanding marks or severe etching. However, when you get into aggressive compounds, it is even more critical that extensive practice and experience with the rotary buffer is obtained before attempting. Moreover, I rarely need to go above #83/#84 even on the worst finishes unless I am wet sanding/buffing out a finish.

Cheers!

Tim

[zey]

Tim, thanks for your clarification. Recently my car's paint finish is attacked by some chemical overspray (which I can't identify where/when/how I got it). The chemical reaction caused my clearcoat to have tiny small blisters and also pin holes. I managed to try a spot and #83 was able to remove the microblisters, leaving the pin holes behind. In order to remove the pin holes completely, I have to reduce the clearcoat level to the lowest point, which I don't think I will do that. Did you have such experience before? What causes it? It's really sad to face such kind of problems...

[Tim Lingor]

Hey,

Pinhole type problems are often caused by improper painting/body work procedures. Did you have the car recently/previously painted? Do you have a close up photo of the problem?

If the pinholes are deep enough that you can feel them, the odds are that they are already too deep to be removed safely. You can only remove .3-.5 mils of clear coat before you risk BC/CC failure.

Tim

[zey]

Tim, it's a factory paintwork. It's not that deep, but definitely can be seen by eyes when near enough (10cm away). I was guessing it could be due to acid rain and sunshine too. Since rain water beads on the surface (become a magnifying glass), and the sun shines on the water beads and it burn the clearcoat. Have you encountered any chemical overspray which could create pin holes on factory clearcoat?