Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!

[Junkman2008]

Re: Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!

Awesome video. You are both funny and educational.
Thanks a lot!

Thank you sir!

[szladob]

Re: Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!

Great video, lots of useful information! I have already purchased Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish prior to watching this video... Do you not recommend using those instead of 105 and 205, considering your opinion regarding the consumer products voiced in the video? Most other posts I have read mentioned very close links between those products (105 - UC, 205 - UP)... Many thanks!

[davey g-force]

Re: Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!

Great video, lots of useful information! I have already purchased Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish prior to watching this video... Do you not recommend using those instead of 105 and 205, considering your opinion regarding the consumer products voiced in the video? Most other posts I have read mentioned very close links between those products (105 - UC, 205 - UP)... Many thanks!

Yes, they are very similar, as you stated. I find that although UC as slightly less cut than M105 it is more user friendly, so I prefer to use it.

[Junkman2008]

Re: Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!

Great video, lots of useful information! I have already purchased Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish prior to watching this video... Do you not recommend using those instead of 105 and 205, considering your opinion regarding the consumer products voiced in the video? Most other posts I have read mentioned very close links between those products (105 - UC, 205 - UP)... Many thanks!

You got my opinion in the video. That's exactly how I feel.

[chiptouz]

Re: Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!

Great videos junkman. Thanks for taking the time to put them together!

[Junkman2008]

Re: Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!

Thanks for watching.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!

Great video, lots of useful information! I have already purchased Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish prior to watching this video... Do you not recommend using those instead of 105 and 205, considering your opinion regarding the consumer products voiced in the video? Most other posts I have read mentioned very close links between those products (105 - UC, 205 - UP)... Many thanks!

You got my opinion in the video. That's exactly how I feel.

Junkman, while your videos are great instructional pieces for people just getting started in this hobby, we do take issue with you calling our consumer line "junk" that isn't designed for use with a buffer and that they just contain a bunch of fillers. That is far from accurate. Ultimate Compound is derived directly from M105 and, while not as aggressive overall, it will remove all kinds of defects with a DA buffer. This is our go to compound in our Saturday Classes, and if you look through the numerous threads of pictures from Saturday classes you'll see we've corrected all kinds of issues with it. And we've done more IPA wipedowns after using UC than we can count - it's not just filling, it's correcting. Heck, we even know guys who use it with a rotary buffer even though, technically, we don't recommend it for that particular tool. Especially for new DA users, UC is much more forgiving than M105, it creates almost no dust even if overused (new users tend to heavily over use products), it gives a long buffing cycle, and it wipes off easier in most situations.

[Junkman2008]

Re: Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!

I completely understand your point of view on this Mike and I will from now on alter my opinion here to say that I prefer the Mirror Glaze and Detailers lines over the consumer products. The way I look at it is if the consumer line was just as good or better than the professional lines that Meguiar's offers, then all of the professional detailers that exclusively use Meguiar's in their shops would save themselves a ton of cash and only stock the consumer lines. Although they may use some of the consumer products, they don't use them exclusively. Also, keep in mind that I only make videos on a fraction of the paint related stuff I do. I show nothing of the professional stuff I do (with a rotary or other professional products/equipment), because I feel You Tube is no way to learn how to use that type of equipment or products.

A lot of people wanted me to do a writeup or video when a semi threw a tire and took out my Corvette. Not only would that have been a very long writeup or video (given how thorough I like to be), but it would have been way over a novices head (as you stated, my targeted audience). But as you can see, I get down with the best of them. This is something that I would only teach someone to do if they were in my garage with me, not on You Tube.







I went all NASCAR and taped it up so that I could drive in home.












This is why I couldn't pursue the guilty party.



Here's what happened. It was 0-dark thirty at night and I was rolling at around 80 through the mountains of Chattanooga, TN. I was coming down a bridge when this semi threw a retread. I had a concrete barrier on my left and right and was going to fast to swerve so I grabbed the steering wheel with both hands just in time for the impact. The car shimmied and I immediately pulled over. I knew it was bad, I just wasn't really wanting to see how bad.

I got out of the car and looked at it and just stood there in disbelief. Semi was long gone and there I was in a little shock.

The insurance company wanted to put the car back to stock and raise my rates but I wasn't going to have any of that. So I told them to go screw themselves and I went shopping for a new provider. I decided to fix the car myself, even though I really didn't have the time to do that with having to run mt business and all.

I have already started ordering the parts I need thus far. A new Tiger Shark front fascia, a new fender and a new wheel housing. That was over $2000 for those three parts alone.

We're just getting started.








Since the inner fender housing was damaged beyond repair, it had to come off the car. This was not a fun time as the inner fender is glued to the frame.




You can see how it is glued in this picture.




The horns were all finagled and bent every which way. I straightened one out. Check out what is left of my fog light.




Test fitting the new inner fender.




Prepping the new bumper.




Test fitting the fender and bumper:






What's left of my fog light...




I got into the hood and found out that the fiberglass wasn't cracked, thank God. It was just the paint that was damaged so I got that knocked out. I also got my alignment all together so all of my seams look great.









Got the inner fender in place and glued to the frame. That is an adventure unto itself. I don't wish that on nobody.








It appears that my skids were slightly bent and I darn near crapped on myself trying to pull them straight. I finally unfangled my horns too. I am going to replace my turn signal sockets while the bumper is off and redo my fog light wiring. I'm also going to replace my high beam 4300 HID's with 5000's. I'll probably do away with that 197 bulb. I don't like how it matches with all my HID stuff. The 197 bulb is the one that is illuminating the inside of my high beams in this picture.




I wanted to make sure that every drop of orange peel was out of the paint so I did a lot of wet sanding and clear shooting in order to match the undamaged paint on the car. I painted the entire dog house and blended the paint into both doors. I didn't want to chance having any unmatching paint lines.


After getting all the body work completed, I laid my primer and paint.






Halfway decent for a "brutha' in his friend's garage production" (my friend had the air compressor I needed)!







Here's where the fun of wet sanding all the orange peel away comes in. This is as much fun as claying, another arm burning activity. I'm starting with 1500 and working my way through 3000. I'll then re-clear everything and go back again with 2500-3000. I'll then re-clear again and it will be slick as snot, with plenty of clear on the car.

My first clear, wet sanding and buffing...




In progress...














Next I had to got all the headlight wiring figured out and repaired. Everything is nice and bright again. First, my halos or "angel eyes".






Then the high beams, which I changed over to HID's...




And the low beams...





Now here's something that you have to consider if you are a C5 Corvette owner and decide to goo all HID's with your high's and low beams. When switching from low to high, the high beams need a few seconds to reach their correct brightness. That means that when you first switch over, you'll practically be driving in the dark!

This of course is not good. Thus, I needed to make sure that my low beams stayed on whenever I switched over to my high beams. This can be done by what is known and the "4 on or high four" mod. It can easily be done by changing the circuit design in the following manner.




Now I have enough light output to land a 747!




Next, I installed the brake cooling ducts...




Then came the fun part. Installing the bumper was an adventure to itself because you had to keep the fog lights and brake ducts in place as you did the install. This was a PITA! I must have spent 3 hours trying to get that darn thing back on!

After getting the bumper on, I kid you not that I spent about 6 hours trying to get the alignment perfect. There's obviously a trick to it at the factory and trust me, I didn't know the trick. Thus, I had the fun experience of learning it. I have it presentable right now, but I know I'll spend a couple more hours messing with it again. At least it's straight.










Next, the lights went back into the car...













Finally after getting everything back together, the first thing I needed to do was get her back into the garage and put a 2-bucket wash on her.




After that, I took her out for the post-wreck cruise.









So as you can see, I have a need for quality products as I don't just do a little paint correction from time to time. Sometimes, I get into the heavy lifting. Although I will take your word about the consumer products ( I have absolutely no reason not to), I will stick with the professional lines because of what I do that no one else actually sees. My father did this for 40 years. He was twice as anal as I am and I guess that's where my opinionated stance comes from. After all, the apple does not fall too far from the tree.

[C8N]

Re: Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!

- it's not just filling, it's correcting

Wait... UC has fillers?
Please tell me it aint so....

[Murr1525]

Re: Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!

Any product that has oils (its what helps the product be a liquid and spread) or waxes in it can act as a filler if imperfections are in the paint.

[s word]

Re: Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!

Any product that has oils (its what helps the product be a liquid and spread) or waxes in it can act as a filler if imperfections are in the paint.

And to add I believe to Mike's point is that you aren't filling it if your correcting it. I have yet to see a car I corrected with this product come back full of swirls like I received it.

[C8N]

Re: Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!

I have no question that UC can correct as I have used it and seen the results for myself.
However, if it does fill at the same time and if one is trying to get that flawless finish, it would be a PITA to do a IPA wipe down on every section you work on to verify your results.

[Junkman2008]

Re: Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!

... However, if it does fill at the same time and if one is trying to get that flawless finish, it would be a PITA to do a IPA wipe down on every section you work on to verify your results.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!

I completely understand your point of view on this Mike and I will from now on alter my opinion here to say that I prefer the Mirror Glaze and Detailers lines over the consumer products. The way I look at it is if the consumer line was just as good or better than the professional lines that Meguiar's offers, then all of the professional detailers that exclusively use Meguiar's in their shops would save themselves a ton of cash and only stock the consumer lines.

The Mirror Glaze line of compounds, polishes and cleaners are body shop safe, whereas the consumer line is not. Because of that body shops won't use our consumer line no matter what the price differential may be. And "better" is a very relative term. UC will out cut all kinds of products in the Mirror Glaze line, but cut alone isn't what makes a product good or bad. As for saving a ton of cash, UC is $10 for 16 ounces, while M105 can be had for $75/gallon. That works out to $0.625/ounce and $0.586/ounce respectively, making M105 actually less expensive.

Now, all that said, just like everyone else out there doing quality work you're going to select products that work well for you, in your workflow, and with your skill set. We love that you're using our products, and if you prefer M105 to UC or whatever, we're fine with it. You gotta do what works for you! We just took issue with the way our consumer line was described, that's all.

Wait... UC has fillers?
Please tell me it aint so....

Careful how you interpret what we wrote: "It's not just filling, it's correcting" means that it's not just a bunch of fillers as has been suggested, but it actually corrects. Like we also said, we've done plenty of IPA wipedowns after using UC so we know full well how much it corrects and how much it may or may not fill.

Any product that has oils (its what helps the product be a liquid and spread) or waxes in it can act as a filler if imperfections are in the paint.

Very true indeed. I've personally played with some competing compounds even in the pro body shop arena that looked great after rotary/wool pad correction, until you wiped them down with IPA and then it was hologram city. Plenty of correction in that the original defects were gone, but the product still did a great job of hiding the holograms it created. Not only that, it actually created a lot more hologramming than M105 did with the same pad on the same paint in a side by side test. But like Mat said, any product that has oils has the ability to fill to at least some degree. But a skilled user won't just stop because a quick pass and quick inspection makes it look like everything is perfect.

And to add I believe to Mike's point is that you aren't filling it if your correcting it. I have yet to see a car I corrected with this product come back full of swirls like I received it.

Bingo!!!!

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!

I have no question that UC can correct as I have used it and seen the results for myself.
However, if it does fill at the same time and if one is trying to get that flawless finish, it would be a PITA to do a IPA wipe down on every section you work on to verify your results.

Again, anything with any oils in it has the potential to fill, including M105 if you don't use it properly. But we can say the same thing about virtually every compound and polish (and wax) on the market, regardless who makes it.