Do you use Clay?

[buda]

MIke:

With regard to the 8,000 grit and 10,000 grit paper, I want to be clear that I too do not ever recommend or teach our detail customers to wetsand. I think this belongs in a body shop.

We do not even use the 8,000 or 10,000 grit paper it is something that I received from a supplier in Japan and they asked my opinion. I have sent some samples to detailers to try in lieu of compounding and they said it was better than a compound and much less aggressive.

There seems to be a reaction to the word "sandpaper."

Think about what 1500 grit feels like, now imagine what paper that is 8500 less than 1500 would feel like?

In any case I was not asking for someone's opinion, only if anyone had ever used it.

Sorry for confusing the issue. I think we are all on the same page, that is, detailers should not wet/dry sand.

If someone wants a sample of this paper I think I have a couple of sheets around here. I would like an opinion.

Regards
Bud Abraham

[Scottwax]

Originally posted by mirrorfinishman
Instead of using clay, you should give Meguiar's Professional Surface Preparation and Polishing products a try. You will be pleasantly surprised to see what a difference they make.

Fine-Cut Cleaner
Medium-Cut Cleaner
Heavy-Cut Cleaner
Cleaner/Wax
Quick Detailer
Dual Action Cleaner/Polish
Compound Power Cleaner
Diamond Cut Compound
Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner Machine Glaze
New Car Glaze
Show Car Glaze
Swirl Remover
Speed Glaze
Hand Polish
Swirl Free Polish

Frank, you do realize Meguiars Professional line-up does include clay, right?

[rusty bumper]

I started using clay about a year ago, and I've never stopped using it since.

I remember my pre-computer days when I would buff & buff with a PC, but I never could get that smooth feeling that I wanted, until I tried clay.

It's the best way to remove "above surface contaminates" that I know of.

[rusty bumper]

Sandpaper side note:

I used to work for a company that wove & fabricated "wire cloth" (as it was called).

Some of the wire cloth that we made was so fine that water would not pass through it unless it was under pressure!

Sandpaper grit is determined by the number of holes per inch in the cloth (i.e. 100 grit sandpaper is made from 100 mesh cloth).

We made & fabricated wire cloth for all kinds of industry, especially 3M. Not to mention the food, and the pharmaceutical industries..............Chances are, if you ate Jell-O in the late 80's, it was filtered by my wire cloth.

Here's the company: www.wstyler.com

It was the best job I ever had.

[Carl]

Detailing clay seems to be the default consumer solution to removing surface contaminants...and I love how it works. However, I wouldn't rule out products like the FinishKare Decontamination system (3 steps), which uses various chemical cleaners to do what clay does, and a little bit more. I'm interested in trying the FK system to see how they compare, and since they are used much like your average car soap. application could potentially be much faster. I always wish there was something more I could, especially for the tiny orange rust spots I often find on vehicles, to make the process go faster.

But since this is the Meguiar's products site, I know Meguiar's has a couple of clay products, one of them being the professional line. IMO, the Meguiar's Pro-clay is overpriced...not very cost-efficient compared to OTC Meguiar's and other brand clay.

Why is this?

[buda]

Am familiar with the Finish Kare three step wash process, as I recall it is formulated to remove rail dust and some industrial contamination.

If you can remove a surface contamination with chemicals then I would agree that this should be done as it is simpler and easier than clay.

But to be sure you have really removed the contamination I would take the cellophone wrapper from a pack of cigarettes and put your 3 middle fingers in it and rub on the surface. If it is smooth you would have removed the contamination. If it feels like sandpaper then the contamination is still there.

Using clay you will find it removes the contamination and the surface will feel smooth using the cellophane test.

However, there are some things like paint overspray that cannot be removed without the use of clay.

Everything has it's place.

Regards
Bud Abraham

[Scottwax]

Originally posted by buda

However, there are some things like paint overspray that cannot be removed without the use of clay.

Actually, one of my regulars had the side of his truck's bed repainted and the body shop got massive overspray all over the top half of the truck. Claying was going extremely slowly, maybe 7-8 minutes to remove the overspray from a volleyball sized section. I ended up using a burgandy Meguiars pad with my PC and Clearkotes Compound. Ate that overspray right up. Followed with #80 and the truck looked new again.

For light overspray though, I much prefer using clay.