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Re: Need Advice On Appropriate Backing Plate, Pads, Products
Not sure why this is again about me, but whatever. Your implication that MF is aggressive-only is incorrect. With technique, I've found MF can be as gentle as any foam pad, but regardless of technique, not just any foam pad can be as aggressive as MF when it counts. Therefore, MF offers me the widest range of applications, soft to hard, gentle to aggressive. This is not controversial. Meguiar's DAMF marketing materials make the same or similar claims. If thin foam discs can approach that, great, but there are other reasons I prefer MF over foam, Detailer over Ultimate, and I'm not the first one to notice.
As for cleaning foam pads, you can certainly wipe the pad off if that's what you mean, but getting the soaked-in or dried-in product requires washing. You yourself have said this as you've argued for buying lots of sets of foam pads. You can rinse the pad out, but if you don't dry it, it's still soaked up so much water and residue as to be a problem when it's put to the paint, so it really needs to be fully cleaned and dried, and that's not cleaning on the fly. However, I've generally just pushed through and done the whole car, as it's not the end of the world. The MF fibers just do not soak up product quite the same way, and a quick brush while the disc is spinning is quite enough to clear the pad.
Your misinformation about carnauba-based finishing is frustrating, as we discuss this over and over, thread after thread. I've discovered, mostly from Meguiar's own materials and threads here on MOL, how to maintain a true show car carnauba finish, on a black daily driver, in the hot-n-humid Southeast, with really no more trouble than using sealants on light paints in the dry Southwest (or at least, if we were working in the same weather and had the same driving habits, the work for both finishes would be much the same). Sure, sealant protection might last longer all else equal for two cars sitting next to each other that never get washed or detailed, but all else is simply not equal and you know that. You and I are regularly wiping and boosting and washing and weathering the finish, etc. It's a totally moot point once maintenance starts. This is not a criticism of sealants, so there's no need to defend sealants against carnauba (sic). Indeed, to use your reasoning, carnauba was here first and has gotten the job done. In other words, the UW or NXT/M21 on your car will be wiped away and replaced, near enough as makes no difference, just as soon as my D301 or Gold Class, but you might not notice it, because the silvery glossy look is largely the same.
As for what the OP or other new members want to try, that is their concern. People are free to make their own choices, of course. My goal here is to offer my lessons and insights based on my own experiences with foam, DAMF and carnauba-based finishing, particularly where they differ from what others are saying. I can maintain a black DD with D301 wax in a hot and often rainy, humid, and dusty climate. Someone out there might benefit from what I've figured out
Not sure why this is again about me, but whatever. Your implication that MF is aggressive-only is incorrect. With technique, I've found MF can be as gentle as any foam pad, but regardless of technique, not just any foam pad can be as aggressive as MF when it counts. Therefore, MF offers me the widest range of applications, soft to hard, gentle to aggressive. This is not controversial. Meguiar's DAMF marketing materials make the same or similar claims. If thin foam discs can approach that, great, but there are other reasons I prefer MF over foam, Detailer over Ultimate, and I'm not the first one to notice.
As for cleaning foam pads, you can certainly wipe the pad off if that's what you mean, but getting the soaked-in or dried-in product requires washing. You yourself have said this as you've argued for buying lots of sets of foam pads. You can rinse the pad out, but if you don't dry it, it's still soaked up so much water and residue as to be a problem when it's put to the paint, so it really needs to be fully cleaned and dried, and that's not cleaning on the fly. However, I've generally just pushed through and done the whole car, as it's not the end of the world. The MF fibers just do not soak up product quite the same way, and a quick brush while the disc is spinning is quite enough to clear the pad.
Your misinformation about carnauba-based finishing is frustrating, as we discuss this over and over, thread after thread. I've discovered, mostly from Meguiar's own materials and threads here on MOL, how to maintain a true show car carnauba finish, on a black daily driver, in the hot-n-humid Southeast, with really no more trouble than using sealants on light paints in the dry Southwest (or at least, if we were working in the same weather and had the same driving habits, the work for both finishes would be much the same). Sure, sealant protection might last longer all else equal for two cars sitting next to each other that never get washed or detailed, but all else is simply not equal and you know that. You and I are regularly wiping and boosting and washing and weathering the finish, etc. It's a totally moot point once maintenance starts. This is not a criticism of sealants, so there's no need to defend sealants against carnauba (sic). Indeed, to use your reasoning, carnauba was here first and has gotten the job done. In other words, the UW or NXT/M21 on your car will be wiped away and replaced, near enough as makes no difference, just as soon as my D301 or Gold Class, but you might not notice it, because the silvery glossy look is largely the same.
As for what the OP or other new members want to try, that is their concern. People are free to make their own choices, of course. My goal here is to offer my lessons and insights based on my own experiences with foam, DAMF and carnauba-based finishing, particularly where they differ from what others are saying. I can maintain a black DD with D301 wax in a hot and often rainy, humid, and dusty climate. Someone out there might benefit from what I've figured out
There are people here who will defend M105 to the death, but I will never spend money on it because of what I've read here on MOL. Others will never be caught using UC, but I've found it to be near perfect both on foam and MF. With the DA, I've used ScratchX, D300 and UC - which are more aggressive in that order. Some defects like buffer trails and machine holograms can require many hours and repetition to master on hard paint, and I've even followed UC with D300 for further refinement, then followed with UP instead of D302, and then D301 is a cleaner-wax, so it has some small amount of aggression. In future, I plan to use M101 for heavy compounding, which should be noticeably more aggressive than UC, and even M105, but finishes like D300 and doesn't dust. This means I can fix defects faster, without having to do 12 or more pass/loads.
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