A question?

[PhantomMagician]

Re: A question?

let me meet your costumers and i'll show them what the H**L swirl marks are...since i pretty convince that you don't even know what swirl marks are

[gsx62391]

Re: A question?

I watched all the videos posted and Yes, there are definitely swirl marks in the paint. A couple things play into the way these videos are recorded. First of all unless you get a light source to reflect the surface you wont see the swirls. Second using a cheap flip camera with a very sub par sensor to adjust to the lighting causes you not to be able to see anything in great detail. My son has a flip camcorder and i grabbed it to compare against a decent quality camera and guess what? The flip camera didn't show anywhere near the definition of the better camera. At times i could plainly see swirls with my eye the flip camera just made a huge glare and didn't show much or any swirl. Using a good camera clearly showed everything that my eye was able to see.
Now the cars in the videos are clean and shiny, but far from being clear of swirl marks. I'm almost convinced this person may not be able to physically see the spectrum of lighting caused by the reflection of swirl marks ( my wife is in the optical correction field and i know that not everyone can see the same amount of detail as others), or he is completely unaware of what a swirl mark actually looks like.
A lot of my customers don't even know what they are looking at when i am showing them swirls. Some of them just assume that that is what it is supposed to look like. In their minds eye the swirl or cob webbing is an indication that it is shiny.
And just on a professional side, what kind of person needs to argue with a anyone in order to sell or promote a product? He sounds like he learned his sales techniques from the school of politics. ( Instead of making a point of how well my product and/or technique is, i am going to tell you the bad things about other products to change the path of focus)
Anyway, i have not tried the product at all, but if you supply a sample size, i will do an extensive detailed video review with a camera of decent quality in comparison to some of the other products comparable.( which in my opinion is not any kind of waxes. The product he speaks of is a paint sealant, not even the same category as a wax. so why compare it to a wax?

[David Fermani]

Re: A question?

Kevin - Don't know, but doubt it. Here's the link to this miracle product:

http://www.gem-industries.com/chemicals.php

If anyone remembers, Gem is the maker of those polishers that revolutionized the paint care industry:


This top of the line machine is actually capable of running at 1700 OPM!!!! I bet Bill is knocking down some serious paint defects when he's strapping one of these bad boys on!

[Kevin Brown]

Re: A question?

Bill-

Is this the same stuff as Finish First?

I used quite a bit of it in the early nineties.
It's still around too, although I don't see it being used much, at least around here.

[flyfish]

Re: A question?

so how long does a good wax lasts on a daily driver?

[David Fermani]

Re: A question?

The problem is... is that not everybody is wrong but you. The experts aren't wrong and your right.... To be honest and frank... You LACK the knowledge necessary to even know how wrong you are. Imagine a first grader trying to figure out E=MC2, but telling the teach it is wrong because C becomes before M in the alphabet. That is where your at.

OMG - That is the post of the year.

[David Fermani]

Re: A question?

Hi Bill(aka Buffer Bill) - I see you’re out exploring more detailing forums again in search for the ultimate debate trying to show how your miracle AT-5 acrylic sealant can out perform all other sealants and wax while letting everyone believe cars treated with it don't require harmful correction. I thought I’d get this post in before you’re ultimately banned from yet another fine detailing forum.

You will see four vehicles I posted recently that have never been waxed, but treated with the product I use when they were new. and they have never required correction at all. All are washed at car washes , and have no fine scratches on them.

　

correction is rarely needed on cars that are treated when new.

Bill, you may not think these cars “require correction” as this term is very loosely interpreted and is totally user defined, but I’m sure everyone here will agree that they are on sub-par shape and certainly could benefit a great deal for it. What these cars could benefit even more from besides correction is someone showing their owner the correct way to wash them as they are all riddled with wash induced swirls and fine scratches.

Check out the 2 minute 10 second part of this 1^st video for a 1^st class seat at the swirl-o-rama cinema:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTTG62gXaA4&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/user/acrylicsealantAT5#p/u/6/csZ6x2myttk
http://www.youtube.com/user/acrylicsealantAT5#p/u/8/fsYklrJESYY
http://www.youtube.com/user/acrylicsealantAT5#p/u/11/ICJTZ6XYhdg

Does anyone not see swirls on these cars?

　

I guess we have a diiferent defination of what protection is. Let me explain mine.
I can wash my car with Dawn soap,and things like bugs, treesap, and dirt come off with little effort and no damage. I never have water spot problems even if I wash with well water.

　
Here’s a great example of what Bill is talking about with respect to washing with Dawn & well water:
http://www.youtube.com/user/acrylicsealantAT5#p/u/12/84KdrajUWNo

　

My cars shine as well as any waxed car, and I do not have to worry about swirl marks. Lastly, I am not wearing down the clear coat, so how am I destroying the clearcoat.

It’s painfully obvious Bill that pretty much every car you’ve posted videos of that you “detailed” are still riddled with an abundance of incompetent wash induced swirls. What you’re failing to understand is that that’s damage right there. And, this damage IS wearing down and damaging the clear coat.


All hail the all mighty Gem AT-5 Acrylic Sealant

[wifpd4]

Re: A question?

This is a good exercise for me, but I need to get to a keyboard rather than a phone.

"removing 1 to 3 percent on an average many be a big deal"

Whether expensive or average, 1 to 3% is a small amount of the whole.


Others may know what product you use, but I've got no clue. Any links?

[billd55]

Re: A question?

Todd
What do you expect? That I should just agree with you . I have listened clearly to what you have said, but you clearly do not want to listen to what I say.

Did I not say that those scratches were not from me on the Mercedes. Maybe it was
not to it's potential, but the owner was not looking for perfection or spending alot
of money.


I do not want to post the links here. I feel I may be banned for it. If you found
my other videos, you can find these. They are a jeep, tahoe, and two lexus cars.


Quote:

Products cannot be layered per say. Please don't give me marketing banter, please show me detailed studies that show a) how thick your product is (and) b) how much thicker it gets when multiple layers are applied.

Go to a new car lot, most (as in 99%) of all new cars require correction. It only takes one bad car wash to scratch a car up.



Well, I have been using this product since 1993, and applied it to hundreds of cars.
After a year all I do is wash the car with Dawn, and use a clay bar in some cases.
I apply a hand coat and that is it. You certainly cannot do that with wax.Watch the four videos and you will see for yourself.

99% of new cars need correction? That may be from the hacks that work at dealerships who use wheels for no good reason. You seem to have this thing for profection like many detailers who do correction. Do'nt get me wrong that is not a bad thing to a point. Although, paint can only achieve a certain amount of shine
before you wear the clear away, and you have to depend on other things to maintain
the shine.

Quote:

Some polishes fill, and many cheap detailers use products that fill. You act like removing 1-3% of the clear coat is a bad thing which is absolutely false. New Rolls Royce's and Bugatti's are wetsanded at the factory and polished for up to 100 hours, perhaps you should tell them that they are wrong?


Not everyone drives these types of cars. I would think that the paint job on these cars are no way similiar
to a average car. They may spray the clear coat much thicker so they can polish the paint . Although, that
may not be the case with all cars, so removing 1 to 3 percent on an average many be a big deal.


Quote:

The problem is... is that not everybody is wrong but you. The experts aren't wrong and your right.... To be honest and frank...

To be honest and frank the experts have never used the product I have used since 1993. They can tell me everything about wax and correction, but they have no clue what the product I use does, or do you.
How can I explain anything to you or anyone else when you have no experience. The product I use
is sooo far above any wax or sealant on the market today, and if you used it ,you would see what I mean.


Quote:

If you are using good wash techniques and not scratching the clear coat, then fine. It's not because you using a miracle product, it's simply because you are washing the car carefully. However if you applied your product then washed the car like goof, you would swirl the finish up.

Once again, you are comparing apples to oranges. If you used the product you would see very quickly that a goof like me could wash my car all day long with Dawn and never get swirl marks from washing. Watch those videos and you will see.

Quote:
I'm seriously done with you Bill. You have no idea what you are talking about and you lack the knowledge to even know how wrong you are

You are the one that decided to respond to this post, and you have your opinion which is fine. Although,
I find it interesting how you can say I do not know what I am talking about which makes perfect sense.
How would you considering you have no idea what I am doing, or the products I use.

[TH0001]

Re: A question?

Todd & David (and probably everyone else),

Most people who come here come with an eye toward learning. Paint polishing and waxing is not rocket science (maybe the guys behind the scenes who make the products are akin to rocket scientists, but the detailing work isn't).

You guys have explained things to a level where anyone who *wants* to understand can. However, this discussion is at this point very insincere and frankly a bit ridiculous.

Agreed. This guy has literally argued (yet never made a point) with everybody including some pretty knowledgeable experts. I have already wasted too much of my life trying to help him. I am out.

[TH0001]

Re: A question?

Todd
I appreciate your nice charts that attempt to make your point, but you can only speak about your experience with correction and using wax. I have no doubt at all
that you have plenty of experience in this area.

Thank you for compliments regarding my charts. I do not speak from just experience, I speak as a universally regarded expert in paint care.

In the video of the blue mercedes ,the scratches you mention were not from me, or the product I use. When I made the statement that no swirls were present could have been better stated.

The gloss of paint is directly related to how much light is reflected. Swirl marks or scratches (similar to the ones ALL over the car you noted) act to diffuse reflected light which reduces gloss. While it might be your opinion that the car shined well it was, by SCIENCE, no where near its potential. Think of a mirror that is new vs. a mirror that somebody has rubbed with a scouring pad..

You will see four vehicles I posted recently that have never been waxed, but treated with the product I use when they were new. They are all 97 models which are redone once a year, and they have never required correction at all. All are washed at car washes , and have no fine scratches on them.

Please post links to these videos.

You are correct that I have to reapply the protect once a year, but there is a huge difference that you are not aware of. First, I do not have to strip the product to
reapply it because you can layer this product. Second, correction is rarely needed
on cars that are treated when new.

Products cannot be layered per say. Please don't give me marketing banter, please show me detailed studies that show a) how thick your product is (and) b) how much thicker it gets when multiple layers are applied.

Go to a new car lot, most (as in 99%) of all new cars require correction. It only takes one bad car wash to scratch a car up.

On the phorum detailing forum which I have not been banned you stated you were going to try the product, but I guess you changed your mind given this quote.

I haven't changed my mind, I simply haven't had time. I still look forward to trying this product.

Todd, will you please explain to me why wax can cover up swirl marks for a short period of time until you wash it ,and they come back? I cannot do that with the product I use.

Since gloss is directly related to how evenly light reflects, it seems that it would be better to use a product that will at least make the paint look better for a short while. I wouldn't 'brag' that your product is incapable of this because this is not a bad thing.

Masked and Concealed
Usually what they will do is simply apply more glaze or wax or both till the swirls are masked and concealed again and they feel confident the customer will accept the car. But as soon as the owner starts to wash the car the wax or glaze will wear off the the swirls will become visible again.

Not sure why you are posting the above other than to confuse yourself more... There are a lot of waxes/glazes designed to make paint look better and provide a temporary effect. This doesn't mean ALL waxes.

This statement really makes me scratch my head:

Quote:

If you truly want to learn how to protect your paint and not destroy it you would be best served to learn more about swirl marks and learn better washing techniques that will help you preserve the finish.

Not sure why this would make you scratch your head. This is common sense and again we are back to the beginning of day one stuff.

Todd, I have seen many of your before and after pics on the truth in detailing forum.
Most of the cars you show are expensive cars that require 20 -40 hours to do your correction work. I would assume these cars are not daily drivers, so why do they require so many hours of work?

To truly refinish paint takes time. It takes time to undue the damage done by improper polishing and washing.

It appears you are spending alot of time correcting,
and not much on preserving the finish.

This is a crazy assumption. Preserving the finish is more related to proper washing techinques which are done post-polishing/detailing. I use high quality sealants and waxes to add some barrier to the paint.

Whether you use a compound or a polish you are removing clearcoat according to your own words. Many polishes contain fillers that fill in and smooth the surface,
but they are not permanent.

Some polishes fill, and many cheap detailers use products that fill. You act like removing 1-3% of the clear coat is a bad thing which is absolutely false. New Rolls Royce's and Bugatti's are wetsanded at the factory and polished for up to 100 hours, perhaps you should tell them that they are wrong? Perhaps you should drive to Monterrey California during Pebble Beach and tell all of the owners of the amazing cars (which have all been sanded and polished) they are wrong? I mean you have already told the entire detailing community that they are wrong.

The problem is... is that not everybody is wrong but you. The experts aren't wrong and your right.... To be honest and frank... You LACK the knowledge necessary to even know how wrong you are. Imagine a first grader trying to figure out E=MC2, but telling the teach it is wrong because C becomes before M in the alphabet. That is where your at.

I guess we have a diiferent defination of what protection is. Let me explain mine.
I can wash my car with Dawn soap,and things like bugs, treesap, and dirt come off with little effort and no damage. I never have water spot problems even if I wash with well water.

My cars shine as well as any waxed car, and I do not have to worry about swirl marks. Lastly, I am not wearing down the clear coat, so how am I destroying the
clearcoat.

We don't have a different definition. Your simply not educated enough and not willing to learn enough to forum an opinion, let alone a definition.

While I don't disagree that your car's shine as well as any other swirled up and waxed car, they do not shine as well as a car that has been properly polished (whether it has wax or not). As far as swirl marks, you have already proven (despite your back tracking) that you don't know what swirl marks are.

If you are using good wash techniques and not scratching the clear coat, then fine. It's not because you using a miracle product, it's simply because you are washing the car carefully. However if you applied your product then washed the car like goof, you would swirl the finish up.

I'm seriously done with you Bill. You have no idea what you are talking about and you lack the knowledge to even know how wrong you are. But as long as your clients are happy and you are happy that is all that matters. There are detailers of all calibers and knowledge levels because there are clients who all have different expectations. Best of luck.

[billd55]

Re: A question?

Todd
I appreciate your nice charts that attempt to make your point, but you can only speak about your experience with correction and using wax. I have no doubt at all
that you have plenty of experience in this area.

In the video of the blue mercedes ,the scratches you mention were not from me, or the product I use. When I made the statement that no swirls were present could have been better stated. You will see four vehicles I posted recently that have never been waxed, but treated with the product I use when they were new. They are all 97 models which are redone once a year, and they have never required correction at all. All are washed at car washes , and have no fine scratches on them.

You are correct that I have to reapply the protect once a year, but there is a huge difference that you are not aware of. First, I do not have to strip the product to
reapply it because you can layer this product. Second, correction is rarely needed
on cars that are treated when new.

On the phorum detailing forum which I have not been banned you stated you were going to try the product, but I guess you changed your mind given this quote.

It would be foolish to assume that any sealant or wax is going to provide an all encompassing layer that will protect you paint.



Todd, will you please explain to me why wax can cover up swirl marks for a short period of time until you wash it ,and they come back? I cannot do that with the product I use.


Quote from DISO post:

Masked and Concealed
Usually what they will do is simply apply more glaze or wax or both till the swirls are masked and concealed again and they feel confident the customer will accept the car. But as soon as the owner starts to wash the car the wax or glaze will wear off the the swirls will become visible again.

This statement really makes me scratch my head:

Quote:

If you truly want to learn how to protect your paint and not destroy it you would be best served to learn more about swirl marks and learn better washing techniques that will help you preserve the finish.





Todd, I have seen many of your before and after pics on the truth in detailing forum.
Most of the cars you show are expensive cars that require 20 -40 hours to do your correction work. I would assume these cars are not daily drivers, so why do they require so many hours of work? It appears you are spending alot of time correcting,
and not much on preserving the finish.


Quote:
If the paint is truly made flat (smooth, swirl free) by the polishing then the resulting finish is semi-permanent. The swirl marks are gone, but that won't stop somebody who has little knowledge of swirls from creating new ones.


Whether you use a compound or a polish you are removing clearcoat according to your own words. Many polishes contain fillers that fill in and smooth the surface,
but they are not permanent.

I guess we have a diiferent defination of what protection is. Let me explain mine.
I can wash my car with Dawn soap,and things like bugs, treesap, and dirt come off with little effort and no damage. I never have water spot problems even if I wash with well water.

My cars shine as well as any waxed car, and I do not have to worry about swirl marks. Lastly, I am not wearing down the clear coat, so how am I destroying the
clearcoat.

[3Fitty]

Re: A question?

Todd & David (and probably everyone else),

Most people who come here come with an eye toward learning. Paint polishing and waxing is not rocket science (maybe the guys behind the scenes who make the products are akin to rocket scientists, but the detailing work isn't).

You guys have explained things to a level where anyone who *wants* to understand can. However, this discussion is at this point very insincere and frankly a bit ridiculous.

[wifpd4]

Re: A question?

Quote:
...
Ok, If wax is barely there, and swirl marks are caused from something abrasive coming in contact with the clear coat,and not from the wax. I would assume that
using a product like Ultimate Compound would create swirl marks and not remove
them from what some have written here. I believe this product is an abrasive in nature and removes a layer of clear coat. Also, from what I have read on polishes
they are not permanent either.

So my question is this: Why bother waxing my car at all. I have to use a mild soap
so I will not strip the wax off. I can not layer the product acording to Micheal Stoops. It really offers nothing more than shine and beading water, and as Murri1525
says ont over-estimate what a wax can do.Finally, Markbaja says:A wax alone will not remove swirls, you need correction which means I have to use an abrasive which will add more swirls to my paint. I am missing something here? I want to protect
my paint, not slowly destroy it.

Working on clear coat is like working with wood in a carpentry setting. To remove either defects, jointer/planer marks, saw cuts in the wood, you start with a fairly course grade of sand paper, then remove those marks with a finer grade of sand paper and then remove those marks with a really fine grade of sand paper. Apply a finish and you may smooth that out with steel wool and mineral oil moving from a course grade of steel wool to Four Ought (0000) grade steel wool.

Same process with clear coat. There is some marring or defects or swirls in the clear coat (note we are not discussing single stage paint, but only clear coat) and you start with the least aggressive product to remove the swirls. If that doesn't work get more aggressive, doesn't work get more aggressive. Okay the more aggressive method works, but YES that method may leave some marring or micro-marring that will need to be removed with a lesser aggressive product and perhaps that leaves micro-marring that needs to be removed with an even lesser aggressive product. So you may end up going Ultimate Compound, then SwirlX, then Ultimate Polish to get the clear coat smooth.

You are not removing layers of clear coat. Clear coat is a single (in most cases) layer of a clear paint. It has micro scratches or scratches that can be removed by using an abrasive to remove clear coat down to the level of the bottom of the scratch. Remove too much clear coat, you get into the pigmented layer, the base coat. Bad. Go even further you get into the primer and finally the metal. All bad.

Yes, polishes are not permanent, nor are most waxes/sealants. They are sacrificial coatings not intended to permanent, but rather renewed on a regular or semi-regular basis. The sacrifice themselves to protect the paint surface and provide a pleasing appearance while doing so.

Most waxes are non-abrasive. Some are capable of filling swirls. So some (most) waxes do not create nor remove swirls. I think it would be safe to say very few waxes create swirls. Now the applicator, pad or towel used to put on the wax or remove the wax may create swirls.

There are several acts that involves abrasives or abrasive products and YES if done incorrectly you will damage you clear coat, the base coat and the primer. If done correctly, repeat CORRECTLY, a small amount of clear coat is removed in the process.

What the answer suggests, however, is that stains, water spots, and (certain) smears can damage the clear coat if not removed quickly. Nothing more, nothing less.

I suggest you look up the word "smear":

1. spread something over surface: to spread something liquid or greasy over a surface, or be spread over a surface.

All I am saying is that it seems logicallythat wax can distort when it breaks down causing fine scratches to be seen in the finish, and may not be in the clear coat itself.Some maybe are, but a few people here are implying they all are which seems to be just their opinion.

This part of the discuss is getting confused beyond comprehension. Quoting your original post:

Quote from Mequiar's website:

4. How can I remove fresh stains, water spots, and smears on my car's finish?


The best way to get rid of fresh stains, water spots and smears is to remove them as quickly as possible, before they have a chance to bake into the paint or cause permanent damage.


This question implies that car wax can smear, or is the clear coat finish itself which does not seem likely IMO.

That question does not imply anything other than "how can I remove fresh stains, water spots, and smears on my car's finish"

Right now it's 80 degrees outdoor if I go out to my car and brush my sweaty arm on the front passenger's fender, I will leave a smear. It has NOTHING to do with wax. I will grab my bottle of quick detailer, spray it and wipe it off. The wax did not cause the smear, if I was careful, the action of wiping did not leave a swirl in the clear coat.

Yes, when putting on a wax coat I stumble into the car and brace myself with my hand, the wax can get smeared. No harm, no foul.

Wax does not, if done CORRECTLY, smear or otherwise damage clear coat.

However, somethings if left sitting on the finish (and on top of wax) can damage the finish. Acid rain, irrigation water, bird droppings, insect bodies (check out Florida Love Bugs) can if left on the finish cause damage.


Meguiar's recommends two coats of wax. NOT two layers of wax. Put on a coat, wait the appropriate amount of time and put on the second coat. The purpose of the second coat is to make sure you get good coverage on the entire car. Covering the spots you may have missed the first time around.

Some waxes, cleaner waxes, may actually remove previous coats of wax.

Hope some of this information was helpful.


(sorry and thanks Todd, I was typing while you fully answered the questions in a much better manner)

[TH0001]

Re: A question?

Bill, you have posted (and been banned from most) on just about every detailing forum I can think of and you have argued with just about everybody. I really have a hard time understanding what is so confusing to you, about this....

Swirl marks are scratches in the paint. Perhaps this chart will help you understand this.



These scratches have to be caused by something that is (by definition) abrasive. This could aggressive polishes, dirty towels, etc. Something has to have the ability to remove paint from these areas in order to cause the scratches.

A wax alone will not remove swirls, you need correction, with for example the Ultimate Compound using an orbital polisher, then applying a polish, then a wax.

Waxing a car (with a pure non-abarsive wax and a non-abrasive wax applicatior) is not going to remove material from the paint, there for it cannot correct uneven abrasions that we call swirl marks. This is day one stuff, and if you are truly trying to understand what is going on (because it is clear that you are LOST) then you need to understand this concept.

I'm confused here. 1. Micheal Stoop's says this:In fact, in our carnauba wax we utilize detergent resistant polymers to help with the longevity of the wax, to prevent it from simply being washed away.2.Murri1525 says: a 'layer' of wax is barely even there. Dont over-estimate what a wax can do... Its not like a clear bra. Also this statement:Swirls are places where something abrasive has come along and physically removed enough material to change how the light reflects, and you see the swirl. There just isnt enough wax there to make a physical barrier against abrasion.3. 3Fitty
says this:Swirl marks are in the clear has nothing to do with the wax.

So Michael Stoops says that Meguiar's makes there wax to last long (and provide enviromental protection; Murr says that a layer of wax isn't thick enough to provide protection from abrasion; 3Fitty says that swirl marks are in the clear coat.

All three statements are correct, so again, your confusion is absolutely confusing me.

Ok, If wax is barely there, and swirl marks are caused from something abrasive coming in contact with the clear coat,and not from the wax.

Now you are getting somewhere!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wax is non abrasive and does not cause swirl marks, assuming that the applicator used to apply the wax does not scratch paint. Swirl marks are scratches in the paint, wax layes on top of the paint. Phewwww your getting there.

I would assume that
using a product like Ultimate Compound would create swirl marks and not remove
them from what some have written here.

You assume this likely because (regardless of how many experts have tried to explain this to you) you don't fully understand what this concept.

I hope this picture helps.



To remove swirl marks you HAVE to remove all of the paint that is above the deepest part of the swirl mark. Not only to you have to level the paint down, but you have to leave the surface smooth.

This is what a quality polish does. You are correct that it is abrasive (removes material) but you assume (incorrectly for some reason) that the resulting finish will be uneven. Newer quality polishes use micro fine abrasives (sub micron) that leave the finish uniform and swirl free to the naked eye.

So Ultimate Compound will remove the swirl marks by leveling the paint flat and leaving the finish smooth (instead of scratched).

I believe this product is an abrasive in nature and removes a layer of clear coat. Also, from what I have read on polishes
they are not permanent either.

As I just explained to you, Ultimate Compound is abrasive. BUT just because something is abrasive doesn't mean the surface it leaves behind will be scratched. It simply means that it will remove material. However it is designed to remove material in an extremely even and smooth fashion which will leave the paint smooth, flat, and swirl free. This might the end of day one stuff, maybe day two stuff at best.

If the paint is truly made flat (smooth, swirl free) by the polishing then the resulting finish is semi-permanent. The swirl marks are gone, but that won't stop somebody who has little knowledge of swirls from creating new ones. For example I have client's automobiles that I care for and wash carefully. Some of these cars have not been polished in 2-3 years and show no visible swirl marks.

So my question is this: Why bother waxing my car at all. I have to use a mild soap
so I will not strip the wax off.

Well if you don't put wax on a car why are you using a mild soap to avoid removing the wax (that isn't there)?

Wax (or a synthetic polymer/acrylic paint sealant) provides a sacrificial barrier to the elements. It doesn't protect the paint from abrasion, nothing does, except perhaps a hypothetical diamond coating.

I can not layer the product acording to Micheal Stoops. It really offers nothing more than shine and beading water, and as Murri1525
says ont over-estimate what a wax can do.Finally, Markbaja says:A wax alone will not remove swirls, you need correction which means I have to use an abrasive which will add more swirls to my paint. I am missing something here? I want to protect
my paint, not slowly destroy it.

It would be foolish to assume that any sealant or wax is going to provide an all encompassing layer that will protect you paint.

I know you shill your Acrylic Sealant everwhere but look at the video you have the boat you have to reapply it too. Look at the video of the black Mercedes you have posted that has swirl marks EVERYWHERE yet you brag you never polished it, never waxed it, and it doesn't have swirl marks.

If you truly want to learn how to protect your paint and not destroy it you would be best served to learn more about swirl marks and learn better washing techniques that will help you preserve the finish.