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My garage queen see avatar) is OEM 25 year-old single-stage lacquer. If I was limited to only one product to maintain it, there's no doubt it would be #7. There's definitely some cleaning action that takes place in use, but that may not hold true for the newer and tougher clearcoats. In my case, it does remove very minor imperfections as well as polish the metallic flakes when I apply it aggressively using a folded MF towel.
Bill
In your case, as with all older single stage lacquers, the defect removal is really being done by way of the aggressive use of the applicator, in your case a folded microfiber. What the M07 is doing is acting as the lubricant in the cleaning process, and a very oil rich and slippery lubricant at that. But it maximizes the cleaning ability of your applicator, provides the oils that help to loosen any embedded dirt, and gives sort of a "buffer" (in this case "buffer" is defined as " something that lessens or absorbs the shock of an impact." rather than "any device used to shine, polish, etc" so no pun intended!) between the towel and paint. Since those old single stage lacquers tend to be much softer than a modern, catalyzed clear coat, you can do wonders with this oily buffer solution and the aggressive application of a good, high quality towel. On that paint, that combination is both highly effective and very safe, which is why it's been so hugely popular for so many decades.
Michael Stoops
Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.
Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.
Thanks for the reply, Michael. It's always interesting to learn more about the workings of a favorite product. Last night, after taking my Camino for a Sunday drive, I was doing a wipedown with a waterless wash. I found some small footprints on the hood, likely from a cat. Neither the WW product (Optimum Opti-Clean) or Meg's #34 would remove the spots, so out came the #7. Even though I had a base of NXT paste topped with Dodo Juce paste from last Fall when I put it into hibernation, with a recent DuraGloss Aquawax topper, I turned up paint residue on my cloth.
I don't really what was cleaning the paint, but the telltale burgundy patch on my mf cloth told me something definitely was working.
I just added #7 back into my regimen, as I had stopped for a year to see if i noticed a difference. I used it on a silver car, and was amazed at the rich color it brought out. The car looked waxed and finished before I even did the waxing! Fantastic product!
I used #7 on my silver car and did notice a nice darkening and gloss enhancement of the paint -- but it's a 15 year old paint job. It definitely liked the polishing oils in #7.
Wasent in the 1930s, 40s,and 50s # 7 was the LSP. I know no one was here then but courious minds would like to know.
I can't speak for that era, but in the 70's, all the gearheads in my crowd knew that "floats on the bottom" ( our term for #7, since the oil in the product separated to the bottom of the clear plastic bottles) made your lacquer look richer and deeper than anything else on the shelves at the time. However, we all knew that it didn't last past the first washing, so it needed to be topped with a real wax if you expected any kind of durability.
I've got an upcoming Black car detail for a pretty neglected paint job that I think will benefit from #7. Going to probably hit it with UC/UP/#7 since I've got a lot of time to complete the project.
For what it's worth, here's an in depth look at Show Car Glaze (#7) - written by Mike Phillips......
Sorry about the weird characters.
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Here's an indepth look at Show Car Glaze (#7) written by Mike Phillips......
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Hi,
As someone else pointed out, #7 is a high oil content product. In fact, it's mostly oil. I could tell you more about it, I have over 7 pages on just this product alone in my forthcoming book, How to Polish Paint. it's really quite a unique product.
For the last 15 years I have seen a lot people comment as to how hard the product is to get off.
Usually, (and I'm not saying this is what your did), the person makes a couple of mistakes.
#7 is a non-drying oil.
One of the many things it can be used for is to make paint look wet, thus the nameâ
I've got an upcoming Black car detail for a pretty neglected paint job that I think will benefit from #7. Going to probably hit it with UC/UP/#7 since I've got a lot of time to complete the project.
You may have a lot of time, but there's no point in doing something if there's no benefit. If the car has an older paint like a single stage paint job, you're better off just using UC, then going to #7....Ultimate Polish is designed for cars with newer paints that is a 2 stage base coat + clear coat. I'd take out the UP stage...there's no need. If it's a newer car, UC then UP, call it a day. Using both #7 and UP is redundant AND unnecessary.
M07 is a good product, but application and removal could be easier. Having too much techniques on how to use it is a turn-off even if it works well especially on dark colors. It does work well on most colors, but it works best on dark colors. But then, any mistakes can be really seen on dark colors. Maybe using a microfiber applicator makes thin applications easier, which in turn makes removal a lot easier. Regular use can and will really add more to the typical wash and wax process. It's a shame, it would be nice if it was easier to use.
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