M105 and 205 with DA

[Sal329]

Re: M105 and 205 with DA

Jeff U wanna sell your 105?
What pads are you using? Not sure if that has any effect? But I use 4" LC flat pads with a PC. I have had some great results with 105, removing defects and finishing down so nice that most people would just put a wax on and call it a day.
Have you tried to start polishing right away and not spreading the 105 on a slower speed? Once the pad gets saturated with 105 it seems to work better, kind of out of the norm but it does. Sometimes I can go from one panel to another and not add anymore product. Never had such a thing with any other polish.

[Jeff U]

Re: M105 and 205 with DA

Jeff U wanna sell your 105?
What pads are you using? Not sure if that has any effect? But I use 4" LC flat pads with a PC. I have had some great results with 105, removing defects and finishing down so nice that most people would just put a wax on and call it a day.
Have you tried to start polishing right away and not spreading the 105 on a slower speed? Once the pad gets saturated with 105 it seems to work better, kind of out of the norm but it does. Sometimes I can go from one panel to another and not add anymore product. Never had such a thing with any other polish.

Only bought the small bottle and it's about half gone so not much to sell. I have the flex DA polisher and have used both the orange and white 6 1/2" LLC pads.

I've tried just about every suggestion I have read. Polish on the pad, polish on paint, high speed, low speed, ...

Maybe I do not get enough product on the pad to be "saturated" ?

Thanks for the suggestion, I may try again this weekend.

[CDN]

Re: M105 and 205 with DA

I experimented the same problem as Jeff U. I had of good result but I do not believe that I used the good technics. He dries very quickly and it is difficult to remove...

My problem is identical to Jeff U.

DA PC, Pad Flat LC 6 1/2...

[CDN]

Re: M105 and 205 with DA

Look, no prime pad:

[CDN]

Re: M105 and 205 with DA

[Chop]

Re: M105 and 205 with DA

Thanks for the videos.

Some Comments/Questions:

I assumme those Meg's guys were using rotaries. Why do they seem to not use much pressure. I keep on hearing (or shuold it be reading) that with the G110 you have to put some pressure so that you can be efffective with the M105/M205. Is that because rotaries are heavier or is it due to the difference on how they operate.

Also they did not seem to apply product on the pads but applied it on the paint directly. Is there any advantage over this or just preference.

After watching the last video with the guy with the DA, I can see I was doing my passes too fast and working an area too big.

Great now I have something to try this weekend.

[NickJRE]

Re: M105 and 205 with DA

It could be just me, but from the looks of the video that guy was not working anywhere near a 2x2' area.

That being said I have the same problem with 105 on the DA.

Anyone else have a youtube DA video?

[rgcurtis]

Re: M105 and 205 with DA

At first I did too. But Bounty & Clearly Coated pointed me in the right direction. The main thing they said is "every car is different and if it is a daily driver then some defects will not come out." Here are the tricks that worked for me on an '02 Mustang GT:

1. Put a little black mark on the back of the pad to make sure you can see the DA spinning.
2. Work small areas. I divided the hood into 5 sections, doors into 3, trunk 2.
3. LIGHTLY mist the pad with water before applying M105.
4. Use a diagonal line across the pad v. a circle.
5. LIGHTLY spray your micorfiber down with QD and then wipe off M105.
6. Do 1-2 passes w/ M105 if that does not work then the next step is a more aggressive cutting pad or wet sanding.

Like I said each car is different. Also you will find a gajillion methods on the forum, take a few suggestions, try them, and if they work, keep them. If they do not work try something else. You will eventually find a method that works for you. Good luck! Don't get frustrated it will work out.

[Jeff U]

Re: M105 and 205 with DA

In those posted videos it appears he is polishing through the stage where I think the product has "gummed up", "flashed", or "dried out". Different names people use to describe the same issue. In the first video at the 1:01 mark you can see the M105 begin to gum up as the polisher moves from the front of the car toward the windshield.

He then just keeps going with the polisher and you see fairly clean paint with almost no product. I bet that if it were higher resolution, you would also see some moderate dusting beginning. By the time he goes to wipe off, there is not much m105 visible.

After testing a small area, I did this on one of my cars and it worked. In fact, it worked very well. (it was a little dusty) It's the only way I finished a car with M105. The results were great, but I have read many so many warnings about not using M105 after its "dry", that I thought I was doing something that could cause big problems.

Am I seeing a problem where none exists?

Maybe what I have interpreted as "dry m105" is really normal?

[NickJRE]

Re: M105 and 205 with DA

Maybe Jeff, but we're in the same boat. I want to use to the product, but I've tried everything and can not figure out what I'm doing wrong.

[Markus Kleis]

Re: M105 and 205 with DA

In those posted videos it appears he is polishing through the stage where I think the product has "gummed up", "flashed", or "dried out". Different names people use to describe the same issue. In the first video at the 1:01 mark you can see the M105 begin to gum up as the polisher moves from the front of the car toward the windshield.

He then just keeps going with the polisher and you see fairly clean paint with almost no product. I bet that if it were higher resolution, you would also see some moderate dusting beginning. By the time he goes to wipe off, there is not much m105 visible.

After testing a small area, I did this on one of my cars and it worked. In fact, it worked very well. (it was a little dusty) It's the only way I finished a car with M105. The results were great, but I have read many so many warnings about not using M105 after its "dry", that I thought I was doing something that could cause big problems.

Am I seeing a problem where none exists?

Maybe what I have interpreted as "dry m105" is really normal?

Like with most things, there is more than one way to make it work.

The "dry buff" idea with M105 was really effective once mastered with the original formula of M105, but to be honest, I haven't really tested it with the new formula to say if it is as effective- but I doubt it.

But, if it works...it works.