"Oil massage": What would work best?

[Michael Stoops]

Re: "Oil massage": What would work best?

On the second (or thrid) thought once cars are detailed that means we do effectively leave them with polish/glaze under the sun, so how my leaving it with "spread" of # 7 over it under the sun could be any "worse"?

Hold a second here. You aren't thinking of applying #7, letting it dry, and then sitting overnight are you? Good luck getting it off without marring the paint at that point. Perhaps the article you read is refering to a different "oil" that won't set up like #7 will. Have you ever used #7? There's a technique to it, and what you're describing is about as far from that technique as you can get! Plus, there's a difference between properly applying and removing a product and letting a relatively thick film dry on the finish (relatively thick film means, for example, the amount of wax you apply to a car versus how much is left behind after you buff it off)

As far as wrapping in plastic wrap is concerned, didn't someone post here at MOL a while back about having some plastic stuck to their car and the finish was badly marred because of it?

If you really want to pamper your baby I'd recommend a good wash, clay, paint cleaning, a coat of #7 (properly applied/removed) then let her spend the night in the garage, then do a second coat of #7, then lock it all down with two coats of #21. Finally, top it all off with a coat of #16. Honestly though, even though I wrote the above, it seems like a bit of overkill to me.

[ZoranC]

Re: "Oil massage": What would work best?

As far as wrapping in plastic wrap is concerned, didn't someone post here at MOL a while back about having some plastic stuck to their car and the finish was badly marred because of it?

Please ignore part of discussion related to my "idea" of using serane wrap. It was discarded almost immediately as "brain dead".

Just as a side thought, though: I understand why stuck plastic would marr paint as it bonded. But would # 7 bind it?

You aren't thinking of applying #7, letting it dry, and then sitting overnight are you? Good luck getting it off without marring the paint at that point. Perhaps the article you read is refering to a different "oil" that won't set up like #7 will. Have you ever used #7? There's a technique to it, and what you're describing is about as far from that technique as you can get! Plus, there's a difference between properly applying and removing a product and letting a relatively thick film dry on the finish (relatively thick film means, for example, the amount of wax you apply to a car versus how much is left behind after you buff it off)

No, I have never used # 7 and I do understand what I am talking about is not even close to an official technique of applying it and removing it. However, please notice I am not thinking of putting thick film, letting it dry, and try to simply buff it out.

Because paint has dulled out and is in need of swirl removal what I am thinking of is:

1. Wash and clay as prescribed.

2. Apply a thicker than usual coat of # 7 and let it soak paint with oil for some longer time.

3. Get out G100 and Swirl Remover, which I hope should result in # 7 removed without any marring.

4. Repeat steps 3 and 4 few more times.

5. For the end do what you suggested (two coats of # 7, two coats of # 21, top of with # 16).

6. Try to maintain paint instead of neglecting it.

Any thoughts?

[Michael Stoops]

Re: "Oil massage": What would work best?

Just as a side thought, though: I understand why stuck plastic would marr paint as it bonded. But would # 7 bind it? I don't know, but since #7 dries fairly hard it just might. I know I'm not willing to perform this experiment on my car, and apparently you aren't willing to on your car either!!!


Because paint has dulled out and is in need of swirl removal what I am thinking of is:

1. Wash and clay as prescribed.

2. Apply a thicker than usual coat of # 7 and let it soak paint with oil for some longer time. I just don't see a longer dwell time giving you any better result, plus "letting it soak" will really just result in "letting it dry" and removal will be difficult.

3. Get out G100 and Swirl Remover, which I hope should result in # 7 removed without any marring. It might work, but I think you'd run a risk of gunking up the pad with the excess #7 you'd be trying to lift, an excess that has dried pretty firmly at that. What you could try, if you're really set on letting #7 sit for a while, is applying more #7 in order to help with the removal of what you've put on the first time around. Virtually all Meguiar's products can be "rejuvinated" (for lack of a better term) by applying more of the same product. I'd try that before trying another product to remove it. Plus you'd get the benefit of two applications of #7. Hmmmm.......yeah, this is sounding better to me all the time.

4. Repeat steps 3 and 4 few more times. I've heard that applying #7 to paint that is badly dried out can be beneficial to the cleaning and defect removal step, even though the normally recommend procedure is to use a cleaner/swirl remover before applying a pure polish. If your paint is really that dull then perhaps a coat of #7 first (or two coats as I've outlined above) will indeed help you. Certainly it won't hurt. Still, I would not use a swirl remover to remove an unusually heavy coat of #7. Get that second coat of #7 off the paint, then attack the swirls.

5. For the end do what you suggested (two coats of # 7, two coats of # 21, top of with # 16). After two coats of #7, then removal of the swirls with a cleaner/polish, you could certainly then do a coat or two of #7 (I really think we are rapidly approaching the law of diminishing returns here though) and then definitely lock it all down with your wax or sealant of choice. I happen to think two thin coats of #21 followed by a coat of #16 is just stunning!

6. Try to maintain paint instead of neglecting it. Now that's hard to argue with!!!!

Any thoughts?

So I guess the process might go something like:

1. wash
2. clay
3. apply coat-1 of #7 and let it sit (I'm still not a huge fan of this idea)
4. apply coat-2 of #7 to remove excess of coat-1, but fully remove coat-2 as per standard practice for the product
5. attack the swirls with the DA and something like #9 or #80 (#83 if needed, but then you will likely need to follow with #80)
6. apply coat-3 of #7 but apply/remove as per standard practice for the product
7. apply coat-4 of #7 (again, I think you've achieved overkill here, especially if you use #80 in step 5 above as it too has a lot of polishing oils)
8. apply two thin coats of #21
9. top with #16

[35th Anniversary SS]

Re: "Oil massage": What would work best?

Im gonna have nightmares about this thread.. gahhhhhh.

[ZoranC]

Re: "Oil massage": What would work best?

Im gonna have nightmares about this thread.. gahhhhhh.

Why?

[35th Anniversary SS]

Re: "Oil massage": What would work best?

Why?

Saran wrap, thick coats, overnight before removal, add more to remove thick dried layer, then remove swirls.... the whole procedure seems so odd.

[ZoranC]

Re: "Oil massage": What would work best?

@ Mike-in-Orange: Thanks for reminding me of gunking up, that did not cross my mind. However, my gut feeling is telling me whole point of "oil massage" body shop person mentioned is to let paint soak up oil and that I feel does involve longer dwell time, and therefore polish that might be hard to remove. He literally said "and left it overnight". Question is what they/he did in the morning to take it off (I wish I knew how to reach him to ask that question). That might be phrased as answer to "how to remove thick(er) coat of dried polish without damaging or drying paint".

Whatever it is I doubt he would have ventured into it on customer's car if he didn't have a reliable way of dealing with it. Let me think some and try to pick brains.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: "Oil massage": What would work best?

In the big picture, after you have washed the car and then clayed then cleaned the car with a paint cleaner, at this point, there is really only so much you can do and by this we mean, apply a pure polish like the #7 Show Car Glaze and work it in thoroughly and then remove it.

If you like, repeat this spending time and focusing on really doing a good job of working the polish into the paint to whatever level it can be worked into the paint. Then wipe off the excess and apply your choice of wax.

Any more than this and it's highly unlikely you're going to see any visible difference and as long as you've performed each step to the best of your ability, then your results will be the best they can be for your ability.

Now it's time to step back and admire your results and put into place a regular maintenance program.

The BIG picture!

[ZoranC]

Re: "Oil massage": What would work best?

If you like, repeat this spending time and focusing on really doing a good job of working the polish into the paint to whatever level it can be worked into the paint. Then wipe off the excess and apply your choice of wax.

Hi Mike,

Thank you!

On the very similar subject, but out of different reasons, what one can do to remove polish that has been probably applied thicker than what it should be and ended up dried out because person had to interrupt work on the spot and leave everything for a while right after he spread around some but before he had a chance of working it in? As I mentioned, when my back injury kicks in badly (and work around car aggravates it, often fast) I am forced to drop everything on the spot and end up not being able to go back to whatever I was doing easily for several hours, if not tomorrow. I want to know how to handle it properly so I know what to do next time it happened. Last time it took lots of elbow grease and thrown away towels.

Thank you again!

[Mike Phillips]

Re: "Oil massage": What would work best?

The most you can do to remove any product is to apply a paint cleaner and then wipe it off.

[MaximusZTS]

Re: "Oil massage": What would work best?

I have heard that Meguiar's products have a rejuvination ability to revive old dry product by reappling a new coat and wipe away.

On the very similar subject, but out of different reasons, what one can do to remove polish that has been probably applied thicker than what it should be and ended up dried out because person had to interrupt work on the spot and leave everything for a while right after he spread around some but before he had a chance of working it in? As I mentioned, when my back injury kicks in badly (and work around car aggravates it, often fast) I am forced to drop everything on the spot and end up not being able to go back to whatever I was doing easily for several hours, if not tomorrow. I want to know how to handle it properly so I know what to do next time it happened. Last time it took lots of elbow grease and thrown away towels.

[E-Jag]

Re: "Oil massage": What would work best?

In a long ago post, someone asked a question about an OLD classic he was about to work on. It had the original ss paint which was dried out, neglected and probably fairly thin. I would swear Mike Phillips suggested to him that he apply a coat of #7 to the car and let it sit overnight before cleaning and polishing the paint, so as to "moisturize" or feed it. IF that's correct, isn't that what we're talking about here?

_______________
E-Jag

[ZoranC]

Re: "Oil massage": What would work best?

The most you can do to remove any product is to apply a paint cleaner and then wipe it off.

If using paint cleaner would there be any gunking up of a pad and marring of the paint like Mike-in-Orange said might happen when things end up dried or dried and too thick?

[Perfectshine]

Re: "Oil massage": What would work best?

*bump* (as a TQ)

Was searching through the forum for varieties of applying DC2, came across Murr's post (and this thread) on someone trying to restore an old car; saying that Mike Phillips soaked in a pure polish and left it overnight to make it more workable(i like the sound of that)..

I figured i'd try it out on a customer's car(clear coated), Left DC2 overnight, after cleaning using #83 with a rotary. It was my first experience seeing the polish hardened the next day and it is really impossible to take out with the supreme shine microfiber..so i proceeded with polishing it with #80 with the rotary and wow..... i never saw a finish like that before in my work..

Here's a picture of what im working on:





Here's a video after polishing off DC2 with #80:


Here's a quick walkthrough on the work done the previous day(passenger side) and the next day(hood+driver side) with this process(#83+overnight DC2+#80):

To Zoranc, did you get to finish your process? i apologise for bringing back this very old thread. cheers!

[Perfectshine]

Re: "Oil massage": What would work best?

edit:

Here's a quick walkthrough on the work done the previous day(passenger side:complete process.) and the next day(hood:complete process. +driver side: Only with #83) with this process(#83+overnight DC2+#80)