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Here’s Lookin’ at You… BMW M5 Reflections

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  • Here’s Lookin’ at You… BMW M5 Reflections

    Although I have not been an overly active participant here in the past I have been basically using nothing but Meguiar’s Professional products going back to the mid ‘70’s. Or should I say back when # 7 was called Seal and Re-Seal Glaze long before it became Show Car Glaze as it is known today. I even recently gave Jeff Brown an old quart can (metal) of the old #7 to add to his personal collection of Meguiar’s memorabilia. After having grown up in the Automotive Refinishing/Custom Corvette business I was using Meguiar’s products to bring out the depth and gloss of custom Acrylic Lacquer paint jobs that I had personally sprayed as well. I was winning Best Paint awards after finishing the buffing/polishing process with the old #7 as described above without waxing in most cases. The wax of choice at that time (if and when used) was Granitize from Groves, as it like Meguiar’s was and is an excellent product.

    The deep reflective finish that you see below on several E34 M5’s was achieved the old fashioned way in a sense, as no NXT products were used. Using the same process that I have used for many years now I first started with the G100 DA buffer and #2 Fine Cut Cleaner followed by the same application process using #7 Show Car Glaze and then everything was protected with Medallion Premium Paint Protection. The only step where I do not use the G100 is in the application of the Premium Paint Protection, as I always prefer to apply it by hand prior to buffing it off with the G100 using Ultimate Bonnet’s of course. I guess old habits are hard to break when it comes to detailing as well especially when the results are this spectacular.

    Of the three 1991 E34 M5’s seen in the following photos both the Mauritius Blue and Alpine White cars are mine and the Black one belongs to a friend that is also a member here. His car was a definite project, as the cars paint was in need of some serious work to get it back into the condition that it is in here. This car required the use of the #2 Fine Cut Cleaner where neither of mine did and I was able to achieve the same level of depth and shine by using only the two latter steps instead of all three as I’ve mentioned above.

    Enjoy the photos!!!





























    My detailing madness does not end with the exterior of my own personal cars either, as the two links below will lead you to a couple of higher resolution shots of the under-hood area’s which have also been detailed using only Meguiar’s products of course. If I only told you how easy these results are to achieve you’d be absolutely amazed I’m sure. But for now let’s just say that this process simply falls into the category of being one of the old detailer’s secrets. If I were to give it away it would obviously no longer be a secret, right? ;-)

    Two 3.6L 315HP S38 motors from the infamous ///Motorsport Division of BMW.





    Additionally, I’ll also mention the URL for numerous photos from a Meguiar’s Surface Care Clinic that both Jeff Brown (Sr. Sales Manager for Meguiar’s and personal friend) and I organized for the BMW M5 owners here locally in the Bay Area last October. To say that this event was a complete success would be quite the understatement based on how much all of those that attended learned about properly caring for their cars. Yes, they are all actively practicing these exact principles today on their own cars as a result of this clinic. Well, that is on the days where it is not raining here in CA, as sunny days are nothing more than a distant memory right now for us. However, both Jeff and I are known to detail cars, polish rims, etc. rain or shine, as it appears we live for this stuff in a sense. This was actually the second such event that Jeff had done for our group, as he had done another smaller clinic several years ago just after the E39 M5 was introduced here in the US. Thanks to Jeff for his continued commitment to those truly passionate about maintaining each and every aspect of their car(s) cosmetically, as his efforts have made a tremendous impact on BMW M5 owners around the world. This after I had shared the details of our clinic with other friends and fanatics like myself that I know globally after our most recent event.



    Hopefully all of this will be an inspiration to others out there in regard to their own detailing efforts put forth on their own cars or those owned by customers alike. Raising the bar will ultimately reflect well upon all of us as a result of those efforts. Happy detailing!!!

    Regards,

    Ken Little

  • #2
    That looks fantastic..really love that Hood shot

    Comment


    • #3
      Amazing work!

      Great job!



      Chris
      Chris

      "Once a Meguiar's user...always a Meguiar's user!"

      1994 Accord

      Comment


      • #4


        Many questions great one...

        Comment


        • #5
          Nice write up Ken,

          I would just like to add that all the Regional Managers for Meguiar's are the same way in that the are all hands-on trainers who love detailing cars and showing others how to detail the cars using the correct products and the correct techniques.

          Meguiar's Reps are truly a stellar group of people that put in long hours and always go above and beyond the call of duty in the name of Meguiar's.

          I use to use a lot of the M02 Fine Cut Cleaner, M09 Swirl Remover 2.0, M07 Show Car Glaze and the Medallion Premium Paste Wax as well as M20 and M16 when I detailed car professionally. If you have not tried the M80 Speed Glaze with your G100 pick up a bottle and give it a try followed by any of Meguiar's waxes and see how you like it. It doest have the cleaning ability of M02, but it has a long play time, is easy to use and give you M07 like results after wipe-off and you can go right to wax afterwards.

          Mike
          Mike Phillips
          760-515-0444
          showcargarage@gmail.com

          "Find something you like and use it often"

          Comment


          • #6
            B-ee-ay-utiful!
            is my favourite!
            "Son, crying in your milk is bad enough; crying in your hot fudge sundae is just disgusting."
            R.A. Heinlein

            Comment


            • #7
              Excellent work on the e34's. Do you have any pics of the e21 which is reflected in the hood?

              Mike,
              Was Medalion paint protection available as paste or was that a typo?

              Eric
              Talk it over folks. Communication is the key.

              --Jerry Springer

              Comment


              • #8
                That is some great reflections!!! Pure mirror!!
                FL

                Comment


                • #9
                  First let me express my appreciation for the positive feedback and comments to this post. As all of you already know these results don’t come easy and much effort has gone into bringing out this type of reflective quality when starting with original/factory paint. These comments are surely appreciated, as they make the effort more than worthwhile in my opinion.

                  Now in regard to some of the specific comments in order of the actual replies:

                  Scrub, “Many questions� simply fire away either on-line here or in an off-line e-mail. My e-mail is kenlittle@bayaream5s.com and I’ll gladly answer any question(s) that I can for you or anyone else for that matter.

                  Mike, I completely agree with your comments in regard to Meguiar’s Reps in general, as everyone that I have ever met with your company truly practices what they preach and do so in a very hands-on manner. However, you guys seem to take more vacations than any other group of corporate employees that I am aware of so the “long hours� comment has me confused a bit. Just kidding, as I know you all tend to work hard and then balance it out by playing hard as well i.e. vacations, etc.

                  I have not tried the newer Speed Glaze as of yet but will do so soon. I actually have many of the newer products which I have yet to even try due to this never ending rain that we have been experiencing lately all over CA. I picked up two bottles of the Swirl Remover a couple of years ago and never actually needed it due to the use of both the M02 and M07 in succession. I’ll also mention that I have never actually needed to use a clay bar either since I tend to not allow the cars to go for too long between detailing’s including a light buffing with M07. This has always worked fine for me although doing this in a professional manner again would surely change that I’m sure.

                  Eric, the E21 320i belonged to the friend that also owns the black Canadian E34 M5 in the photos. I should actually refer to it as a 327i since the original 4 cyl. motor was replaced by a very tweaked 2.7L inline six and the car was basically a street driven auto-x/track car. He also put a killer high-end audio system in it, which obviously blew more than a few minds since most racecars are radio-less for the weight saving reasons. He sold this car late last year to begin another project, etc. though. I do have some photos of this car as well as a few clips of it on the auto-x course which I am more than willing to share with you if you like. Just drop me a message via e-mail and I can forward some of these to you.

                  Regards,

                  Ken Little

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    WOW

                    you are the man!
                    2001 Vortex Blue New Beetle

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Those are the coolest pics I have ever seen....really nice man!!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thanks for the offer to assist.

                        Does the PC and M02 play well together? From all I have read (and not to question you or your results) Fine cut is for rotary only.

                        Any adverse problems like a tough haze to remove after using Fine cut and the PC?

                        What kind of work is accomplished with the Fine Cut and PC? Minor swirls and light scratches.

                        By using a pure polish am I correct to assume you don't step down the Fine cut with a finer polish (like #9) then use #7 right?

                        What speed is the PC set at for #2 and #7?

                        Do you use a rotary or jsut a PC to fix the paint surface?

                        If no rotary why not?

                        What is some of the worst flaws repaired with the PC and Fine cut? Any before and after pics?

                        That's the first round of my questions. Thanks again.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Scrub:

                          No problem in giving you my personal input here based on my actual experiences over the past few years with the G100. This manner of response where I have quoted your questions/comments just above my actual responses seemed to make the most sense so here we go.

                          >“Does the PC and M02 play well together? From all I have read (and not to question you or your results) Fine cut is for rotary only.�

                          Yes and no, as M02 does actually work more efficiently with a rotary buffer for a number of reasons. The more abrasive polishes and or compounds require heat to be most effective and this heat is obviously generated by higher speed rotary buffers and not the G100. When using a rotary buffer you can easily buff any surface until it is smooth and the polish and or compound being used has nearly disappeared from the surface being buffed.

                          With that having been said, I also feel that the G100 can also be quite effective when used at higher speeds using the M02. You obviously cannot do this in the same manner as you would with a rotary buffer, as the slower speed of the G100 will never allow you to buff the surface until the polish and or compound nearly disappears. Additionally, the M02 will clog up foam pads if used at slower speeds since those speeds will not allow the possible buildup to be literally thrown from the pad by gravity created by the spinning pad itself, The secret here is to use the G100 and M02 at higher speeds than you would with Mo7 for instance. Then also use the M02 sparingly, as you do not need much in order to achieve excellent results. Most people seem to believe that if a little is good then more will work even better in these situations which actually could not be any further from the truth.

                          I personally never look down to check the actual speed used with the G100, as I simply adjust it as I go along to make it perform most effectively with each product (Meguiar’s of course) that I am using with it. I’d recommend testing this process the next time that you are buffing a car that may have some scratches, etc. that may be just beyond the capabilities of M07 to remove completely. The beauty of buffing in this manner is that you virtually eliminate the possibility of burning through the paint on edges, etc. due to the G100’s DA mannerisms. I will also mention that M02 will obviously be more effective as a cutter when used with a rotary buffer vs. the G100.

                          >"Any adverse problems like a tough haze to remove after using Fine cut and the PC?�

                          No haze if used in the manner, which I have, outlined above. The only downside would be the pellet like balls of dried M02 tossed out from the pad if lower speeds are used. Remember, these dried amounts of M02 can be quite counter productive if you do not increase the speed of the G100 when using M02 vs. M07. Therefore Speed Glaze might be a more viable solution for some of you out there due to its more user-friendly characteristics when used with the G100. Remember to always use the process and products that work best for you and allow you to achieve the exact results you were seeking to begin with regardless. What works for me may not be effective for others and vice-versa.

                          >�What kind of work is accomplished with the Fine Cut and PC? Minor swirls and light scratches.�

                          You’re right on the money there, as that is correct. The advantage that I have seen from using this process is that the M02 cuts much quicker than the M07 and also removes the minor scratches and or other imperfections allowing the M07 to put the finishing gloss on the paint prior to wax, etc.

                          >“By using a pure polish am I correct to assume you don't step down the Fine cut with a finer polish (like #9) then use #7 right?�

                          I’ve basically ended the polishing process with M07 going back to the late ‘70’s and have never used a finer polish to date. That’s not to say in some instances I would not consider doing so depending on the actual condition of the paint that I am working with. Never say never, right?

                          >�What is some of the worst flaws repaired with the PC and Fine cut? Any before and after pics?�

                          I’m sure that I have a pic or two of the Black M5 seen in the other pic’s contained in my initial post here. Unfortunately they are higher resolution than what is recommended here and resizing them to the smaller sizes always makes the surface look better than it actually does in reality. I’ll locate a couple of those photos and then include a link to them in higher resolution rather than resizing them and including them in the post itself. This way you can better see how bad this paint was when I started with it where the reflective quality was quite distorted from surface imperfections, etc.

                          >�That's the first round of my questions. Thanks again.�

                          I hope that my answers are helpful to you and also feel free to go to round two if you have any additional questions, etc.

                          Regards,

                          Ken Little

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Ken, Thanks again. Give me a few weeks to chew over the great reply you posted.


                            ">“By using a pure polish am I correct to assume you don't step down the Fine cut with a finer polish (like #9) then use #7 right?�

                            I’ve basically ended the polishing process with M07 going back to the late ‘70’s and have never used a finer polish to date. That’s not to say in some instances I would not consider doing so depending on the actual condition of the paint that I am working with. Never say never, right?"

                            When I ask about finer polish I might have misspoke. What I meant to ask was... Do you use a less abrasive (on the Meguiar's scale) polish to remove any haze left behind from the M02? If there is any hazing left behind. You stated you still finish with M07.

                            Do you find the M07 will remove any haze after using M02 or is using M07 simply too add a pure polish to enhance the shine?

                            If M07 does remove any remaining haze is that a product of the application (PC, pad, speed) rather than the pure polish itself?

                            Thanks again for your very detailed answer. Sorry if I seem like I'm questioning your methods. I'm really trying to gather facts, experiences, and techniques.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Scrub:

                              First let me backup briefly to clarify something included in my previous post. The problem that I briefly experienced where the M02 was drying and forming small pellet like clumps was when I mistakenly grabbed an older bottle of M02 instead of the newer one I had actually intended to use. This factor surely led to the issue as I had already explained in that last post above. When using the newer product this issue was then virtually non-existent. However, it definitely makes sense to me to fully disclose any potential issues that any of you may happen to also experience in similar situations of your own.

                              The beauty of all of this is that it allows each of us to constantly refine our own best known methods when incorporating the success’ of other Meguiar’s Online members, etc. Therefore, I’m always more than willing to share this type of information since we can all share and learn from each other thus always making us better at our detailing craft.

                              Now to your comments regarding any potential haze left behind by the M02 when using the G100 rather than an orbital buffer instead. I have only experienced minimal haze personally when using the G100 and M02. I’m actually curious if this is something that you have experienced in the summer months, as humidity could be a major factor with your being in SC. My guess is that its likely that or perhaps that you are using more M02 than you need and then there is simply residual residue being left on the surface. I’m just going through the most logical scenarios here in effort to see if others are also experiencing this type of haze as well.

                              What I will do this weekend is shoot sequential photos as I use this process on a friend’s car. I plan to buff this car anyway and it just happens to be a dark blue metallic so it will be easy to see the exact amount of hazing (if any) that remains after using the G100 and M02. I’ll shoot before, after M02, after M07 and after wax shots and post them here for both you and others to review.

                              Something else that you may consider would be using Last Inspection, Final Inspection or Quick Detailer to remove any such haze left after using the M02 and just prior to your using the M07. Any of these Meguiar’s products would be effective in removing this haze prior to your proceeding to the next step of your process.

                              Another way to possibly get around the hazing would be to only buff a panel or two at a time before going back over them with the G100 using an Ultimate Bonnet. This way the polish does not have a chance to completely dry thus making it much easier to remove. I would always recommend this in any situation to begin with, as the compounds; polishes, etc. will always be easier to work with when they are still at least semi moist. Most people will almost always buff the entire car before beginning to remove the residue with the G100 and Ultimate Bonnet’s. If you have not tried any of these methods I’d highly recommend doing so just to see if they will help to eliminate the issue of haze that you have apparently been experiencing.

                              I hope that this is also helpful to you and or anyone else out there as well.

                              Regards,

                              Ken Little

                              Comment

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