1999 Corvette - Remove Swirls and Scratches

[foris2]

Mike -

You and Lynn did an awesome job on that Vet.

[scrub]

Nice work!! Nice thread!! Great info!! I have a potential client with a newer black vette with virtually the same surface condition. I was thinking the pc and #83 would cut it. NOPE!! I won't even waste his time!

Some questions. How long did you work in #83 with the pc? I understand not to dry buff but what about a ballpark time. Of course ambient temp about 85-90, Humidity 95, at sea level, with a full moon... Again customer service recommends less than a minute of buff time.

If you did buff longer than a few minutes did you apply more product to pad or detail spray? Or did you just continue to work in until almost gone with the one application?

I'm just trying to understand and learn!! Know what I mean?

[Mike Phillips]

How long to polish with the #83 on a PC is something best learned from experience and trial and error. There are a lot of variables.

Suffice to say, you want to buff at a high speed, with enough pressure for a long enough time to remove the defect without going to a dry buff.

Watch the film you leave behind you as you move the PC over the surface. If the film looks and feels dry, you have buffed too long. Aim for a sweet spot between this dry buff and buffing long enough. (See what I mean... you need some time behind the PC to obtain the experience necessary.

Mike

[scrub]

Got it. I just wanted to know what is possible from people with experience rather than limit myself to what I think and know. I'll study some more before the vette undertaking. Thanks for info and pics.

[rusty bumper]

I think I'm starting to understand the DACP buffing process a little better than I used to...The right amount of pressure on the buffer makes all the difference in the world.

[Antonio Wright]

What exactly is dry buffing? A while ago I detailed my brothers 2001 Black Volkswagen Jetta. I had a very hard time using DACP. I watched the Meguiars video over and over again. I think I may not be using enough product because I believe the polish is breaking down way too fast.

My question is how much product needs to be applied? Also Mike, did you use the Makita to apply NXT? If you did what speed did you use and are you using the Meguairs 100% cotton towels?

[fiberrich]

Bump!

Can anyone answer the questions Antonio had as well as a few additional ones?

What exactly is dry buffing?

How much DACP do you use on the pad for each section?

Any additional pointers as to what to look for to find the "sweet spot" between "wet" and "dry" buffing?

If after inspection, some scratches/swirls are still on the finish, can you re-apply DACP and keep going at them?

[the newbie]

dacp

i know what you'll been through,i know i did!
dacp is not really hard to work with,but it takes a bit more knowledge,experience,and most of all:patience!
don't give up your thrust in megs products,you see the results of these wonderful products overhere every single day.if it turns out not the way you thought,YOU did something wrong.simple is that.
i've been reading a lot of threads about dacp,so i thought:i need to get that stuff.
my first try was a bit disapointing,but i didn't give up,and tried again.see my post 'jaguar full detail' the trunk lid was damaged by a muddy football,and my customer told me,that it was important to him that this spot would be recovered.i had seen the results of dacp,so i knew this stuff could do the job.probably i used a pad that was too soft,because it was the only clean pad i had in stock,it was a yellow polishing pad,and i think i needed a red one,to do the job quicker,but this one did it,it only took a couple of times.very important is the speed setting,and the presure you put on your machine,also the time is of importance.
if you buff too long,you cannot buff it out very easy.it takes some practice,but it's well worth the time you put in it,if you master this product,you really can remove paint defects and scratches with ease,and absolute customer satisfaction.
remember,profesional stuff,needs profesional approach.
be patient,let the products work for you.

ciao,

Rick

[rusty bumper]

Originally posted by Antonio Wright
What exactly is dry buffing? A while ago I detailed my brothers 2001 Black Volkswagen Jetta. I had a very hard time using DACP. I watched the Meguiars video over and over again. I think I may not be using enough product because I believe the polish is breaking down way too fast.

My question is how much product needs to be applied? Also Mike, did you use the Makita to apply NXT? If you did what speed did you use and are you using the Meguairs 100% cotton towels?

Dry buffing is when you buff the product too long and the product becomes stiff & dry to the touch...Not to mention hard to get off.

I would apply a good amount of DACP to the pad...It sounds like you are are using it too sparingly.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Antonio Wright
What exactly is dry buffing?

Dry Buffing
Dry buffing is when you have buffed a product to the point that the surface has become dry, or almost dry. The problem with this is that you have buffed so long that the ingredients intended to keep the surface lubricated have dissipated. The result is increased friction between your buffing pad and the surface. If you goal was to create a clear, high gloss finish, the last thing you want to do is to increase friction.

My question is how much product needs to be applied?

This is a good question but hard to answer. When you first start out and your pad is new, or used but dry, your initial product will tend to saturate into the pad at least to some degree. For this reason, I tend to put out an ample amount when first starting and reduce the amount of product I apply as I continue to move around the car. Some people like to pre-saturate their buffing pad with some quick detailer first, like Meguiar's Quik Detailer or #34 Final Inspection. I don't do this personally, you can try for yourself and see if you like this technique. It's personal preference.

Another factor that will determine how much product you use is the condition of the surface and what you're trying to accomplish. If you're going to have to work the finish for a long time you'll need more product if the finish needs less work you won't have to buff as long and therefore will not need as much product.

An example would be a heavily oxidized finish versus removing a light haze. The heavily oxidized finish will require more buffing and more product, the light haze in the finish should buff out with just a little product and a little buffing.

This can be kind of tricky however for example if you apply too much of one of our compounds, you can potentially create a surface that is too slippery which will have the effect of not allowing the diminishing abrasive to effectively abrade the surface and remove the defect, you will in essence be fighting yourself. (The cure it to wipe off the surface, clean your pad and start over).

Also Mike, did you use the Makita to apply NXT? If you did what speed did you use and are you using the Meguiar's 100% cotton towels?

I never use a rotary buffer to apply any kind of wax. This is a technique typically used by production detailers.

Mike

[jetta18T]

I'm still in amazement in how a compound caused the horrible scours on the drivers side door, and at the same time a compound was required to remove them... It's funny how the final product turns out depending on who's behind the work. Great job Mike and Lynn!!

[benhui86]

Originally posted by jetta18T
I'm still in amazement in how a compound caused the horrible scours on the drivers side door, and at the same time a compound was required to remove them... It's funny how the final product turns out depending on who's behind the work. Great job Mike and Lynn!!

the compound that screwed up the paint job was probably one of those turtle wax heavy duty ones

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by jetta18T
I'm still in amazement in how a compound caused the horrible scours on the drivers side door, and at the same time a compound was required to remove them... It's funny how the final product turns out depending on who's behind the work. Great job Mike and Lynn!!

Hi Jetta18T,

The story behind the ugly spot on the door as told by the owner is this...

A mobile detailer offered to show the owner how great his product would make his Corvette look. He asked if it would be okay to demonstrate and the owner said "Yes". The detailer then proceeded to apply this compound by hand to the door. The owner didn't notice the damage, but he thinks the detailer did because he ended the conversation and left.

It wasn't until the sun directly hit the door and exposed the damage, and then I pointed it out to the owner did he realize what had happened. (He doesn't drive the car often).













Anyone can start a mobile detailing business, but this doesn't mean they're qualified to do the work.

Mike

[Tom Weed]

WOW

Mike,

The look of that Vette is truely eye catching now, amazing.

Great work,
Tom

[Danny45]

WOW. Mike, I'm truly amazed. After seeing the before shot of that door, I figured a trip to the paint shop was in order!! That's amazing.

Hey, just a thought, but you guys need to include a body panel or two with your kits so we can have something to practice on.