M105 and Other 2008 Products in Review!

[sneek]

Re: M105 and Other 2008 Products in Review!

Looks very impressive. I hope I will get my hands on this stuff in the near future.

[maesal]

Re: M105 and Other 2008 Products in Review!

Had to Google that one...

I did try some Detailer glass cleaner on a test spot. As others have said, it didn't hide anything.

Thanks

[PorscheGuy997]

Re: M105 and Other 2008 Products in Review!

The first pic of M105 was just after one pass. The final pic was after two passes over the entire hood.

[kty10]

Re: M105 and Other 2008 Products in Review!

Great results! Thanks for the write up and review.

[Hemin8r]

Re: M105 and Other 2008 Products in Review!

Thanks for the great write up. M105 does seem like a great product.

[poyo]

Re: M105 and Other 2008 Products in Review!

I can see the diff in the 2nd last pic. Superbly clear finish!

As you've posted earlier, it took you two passes of M105 after two passes of So1o, correct? Maybe you can try using just M105, but try using the pyramid technique, which is starting real low, about 600RPM to spread the product, then go up to 900RPM, then 1200RPM, or maybe a bit higher than that, then drop down to 900RPM again to burnish the finish. This technique is found to be very successful especially for M83 + rotary / DA ( check Detailing World, under the nick DaveKG ), and since M105 is already proven by you to finish so well, not needing a softer polish like M83 to burnish up the paintwork ( maybe it's due to the So1o wool pad you were using ( am I right here? ).

But, since you've already posted that M105 cuts pretty fast ( how fast for the whole bonnet? Per pass, or for the whole two passes? ), if you've tried without So1o bfr, maybe you can try a slightly faster speed with other stronger - cutting So1o wool pad ( forgot which is which... )??

I do find it a bit strange as you had to use some pressure with the 9227C, well, maybe it's just me, since I have extremely limited experience with the venerable Makita 9227C ( only managed to test my pal's a few times ).

Ah, this makes me want to ask for help from you guys to buy me M105 from ADS....

[PorscheGuy997]

Re: M105 and Other 2008 Products in Review!

The first pic of M105 was just after one pass while the final pic was the second pass over the entire hood - 2x2ft sections.

When I meant using pressure, I meant to say a minimal amount of pressure. Most of the time, I just use the weight of the polisher. I have heard of the pyramid technique, but I use the technique which Mike Pennington used in the videos on Youtube - start out with a little pressure and then lighten up. I've found that this helps to refine the finish.

It would be possible to probably get a better finish with So1o using a different pad. To make the comparison fair, I wanted to use the same pad. This test was more about M105 that So1o. I do agree that the finish of So1o would have looked a lot better if I would have used a less aggressive polish and lighter pad. Don't get me wrong, the results with So1o were also very good.

When I used M105, it was only in small sections - 2x2ft. Even then, it cut pretty quickly.

[PorscheGuy997]

Re: M105 and Other 2008 Products in Review!

Sorry for the wait. Poyo, I replied to your earlier post.

[poyo]

Re: M105 and Other 2008 Products in Review!

Thanks bro. Now hafta wait until MG distributor here bring in M105...

[Lydia]

Re: M105 and Other 2008 Products in Review!

...As you've posted earlier, it took you two passes of M105 after two passes of So1o, correct? Maybe you can try using just M105, but try using the pyramid technique, which is starting real low, about 600RPM to spread the product, then go up to 900RPM, then 1200RPM, or maybe a bit higher than that, then drop down to 900RPM again to burnish the finish. This technique is found to be very successful especially for M83 + rotary / DA ( check Detailing World, under the nick DaveKG ), and since M105 is already proven by you to finish so well, not needing a softer polish like M83 to burnish up the paintwork ( maybe it's due to the So1o wool pad you were using ( am I right here? ).

But, since you've already posted that M105 cuts pretty fast ( how fast for the whole bonnet? Per pass, or for the whole two passes? ), if you've tried without So1o bfr, maybe you can try a slightly faster speed with other stronger - cutting So1o wool pad ( forgot which is which... )?? ...

Chris,
I am wondering about this too. As I understood, you did not use So1o before M105. I could have read wrong though. Did you use M105 by itself on a test spot, or did you use So1o first, and then M105?

[PorscheGuy997]

Re: M105 and Other 2008 Products in Review!

Ok...

I did half the hood using So1o (two passes) then the other half using M105 (one pass). Afterwards, I went over the entire hood with M105 - there is a height difference near the edge that I missed. Plus, I had the hood taped into four sections and I had to remove the swirls under the tape.

My apologies for the confusion.

For now, I'll put my phone number in my signature if anyone has any questions. At the first prank call, it's gone.

[Joe's detailing]

Re: M105 and Other 2008 Products in Review!

Nice work. Chris you always will have a job at Joe's detailing will split the money just like we talked about 90/10 keep up the good work friend.. Joe.

[Tom Weed]

Re: M105 and Other 2008 Products in Review!

Not trying to hi-jack the thread or anything, just thought I would post my thoughts/comments on 105 from last night.

As evidence of the pictures, this stuff does cut extremely well and finishes down very nicely. I used it on this old work car of my buddys, who I don't think had ever waxed it since he's had it and it's probably 20 years old with over 300K miles on it. I used it with the rotary on a Solo yellow LC wool pad about 1200-1500 RPM's. Maybe I could have used a red Solo wool cutting pad to remove more scratches, but I was just wanting to experiment with the product.
While it did cut and finish out very well, it was extremely hard for me to wipe off and it did dust pretty bad, (some of that could have been the new solo wool pad). Not sure why this is or what I was doing wrong since I've read others have not had this problem.

Anyways, here at my pictures, followed it up with PolySeal on the Flex polisher with a white LC polishing pad.

Befores:




Afters:

[poyo]

Re: M105 and Other 2008 Products in Review!

Can I know how large was your worksize ( 2" x 2" per run etc ), and amount of time used per pass? You may be right, using the stronger red So1o wool pad might have given you better results, but thinking about the 20 year old paint, heheh. Any paint transfer on the So1o yellow wool pad afterwards?

I'm not a rotary pro, but from what I read around, one of the reason dusting occurs is maybe, just maybe, you have used a bit too much product?

Now what we need to know is how to work in the product, until a bit wet ( ala M80 ) or until it starts to dust a bit ( which can be a bit dangerous as you might be reintroducing some fine swirls caused by the compound dusts ), amount of product needed per pass, how large a pass etc.

.... And if M105 can be "burnished", so we can apply the pyramid technique!

Tom, million thanks from me for your M105 review sir, greatly appreciated!

Not trying to hi-jack the thread or anything, just thought I would post my thoughts/comments on 105 from last night.

As evidence of the pictures, this stuff does cut extremely well and finishes down very nicely. I used it on this old work car of my buddys, who I don't think had ever waxed it since he's had it and it's probably 20 years old with over 300K miles on it. I used it with the rotary on a Solo yellow LC wool pad about 1200-1500 RPM's. Maybe I could have used a red Solo wool cutting pad to remove more scratches, but I was just wanting to experiment with the product.
While it did cut and finish out very well, it was extremely hard for me to wipe off and it did dust pretty bad, (some of that could have been the new solo wool pad). Not sure why this is or what I was doing wrong since I've read others have not had this problem.

[Tom Weed]

Re: M105 and Other 2008 Products in Review!

Can I know how large was your worksize ( 2" x 2" per run etc ), and amount of time used per pass? You may be right, using the stronger red So1o wool pad might have given you better results, but thinking about the 20 year old paint, heheh. Any paint transfer on the So1o yellow wool pad afterwards?

I'm not a rotary pro, but from what I read around, one of the reason dusting occurs is maybe, just maybe, you have used a bit too much product?

Now what we need to know is how to work in the product, until a bit wet ( ala M80 ) or until it starts to dust a bit ( which can be a bit dangerous as you might be reintroducing some fine swirls caused by the compound dusts ), amount of product needed per pass, how large a pass etc.

.... And if M105 can be "burnished", so we can apply the pyramid technique!

Tom, million thanks from me for your M105 review sir, greatly appreciated!

Okay, I stand corrected, the car is a 1992, with over 300 K miles, the paint on it looks amazing right now, wish I got some overalls before he left, but it was dark outside. The car has bc/cc and is not single stage so I didn't get any pigment on the pad. I did work approx a 2'x2' area or there abouts.

Not sure about if I used too much product or not, since that's the first and only time i've used it. I put down a bead on the surface I was working on and cleaned my pad with a brush after each panel, but it did have some build up on it still. That could have been the reason though it was so hard to remove and did dust. I probably should have used more than one pad.

I did work the product until it was almost gone, which was a few passes over each section. It definately does as adverstised on cutting and clarity though, I just probably need some more practice with it as it didn't seem to have that long of a working time before it would become gummy, but again, that could have been the build up on the pad.

Tom