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My V240 Makita 9227C has just arrived

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  • #16
    Actually I don't know the precise size of the spindle thread of my Makita, but the backing plate that I bought which is w-64 5/8" is fit on it!

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    • #17
      Originally posted by v12
      Hello all,

      I get rush and I try to pass and finish the buffing area as fast as possible because the polish dry to fast!! may be I finish one area in just 20 second!! is that normal I don't feel it's enough.
      Hi v12,

      First, a couple of questions?

      * What is the average temperature during the time you're buffing?

      * What is the humidity?


      Second, just to chime in that Meguiar's always recommends holding the rotary buffer in such a way as to keep your buffing pad flat against the surface. This is not always easy, and it is not always possible as some surfaces demand that you hold the rotary buffer at an angle. However... when possible... learn to buff in a way that you are able to hold the rotary buffer in such a was as to keep the pad as flat as possible, against the surface when buffing.

      Here's a link to our how to video on using the rotary buffer online...

      How to remove paint defects
      Mike Phillips
      760-515-0444
      showcargarage@gmail.com

      "Find something you like and use it often"

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      • #18
        Hello Mike,

        Regarding your question, the average temperature during the buffing process is about 30C, and the humidity is high may be 70%-80%!! and I'm doing the detailing process inside my garage.

        Mike I have few questions I hope you answer them:

        1- on average how long it takes you to buff 2"x2" until you get a light residual?

        2- When I move the buffer from the left to right I feel that the buffer resist to move in this direction, is that normal? or it's lack of polish?

        3- Does polishing clayed car is easier than unclayed one in term of the polishing process not on the final results?

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        • #19
          Originally posted by v12
          Hello Mike,

          Regarding your question, the average temperature during the buffing process is about 30C, and the humidity is high may be 70%-80%!! and I'm doing the detailing process inside my garage.
          30 degree Celsius = 86 degree Fahrenheit, (In case anyone is wondering ).

          Mike I have few questions I hope you answer them:

          1- on average how long it takes you to buff 2"x2" until you get a light residual?
          I'm sorry, there is really no way to give you an accurate time for this, it all depends on so many factors, paint quality, (or lack thereof to start with). 1-3 minutes would be a good guesstimate, I guess? The horizontal surfaces will always take longer than the vertical surfaces because they tend to be worse in condition.

          2- When I move the buffer from the left to right I feel that the buffer resist to move in this direction, is that normal? or it's lack of polish?
          This is the nature of a direct drive rotary buffer and influenced by the angle of pressure placed upon the pad and your body as the controlling factor. You're correct however, typically, if you're standing in front of the hood on a car and making back and forth passes from left to right, the rotary buffer will tend to want to move easily from the right to the left, but will seem to offer more resistance when moving from the left to the right, it all has to do with the direction of the rotation of the pad and your position.

          As far as how much product you're using having an influence, this is a possibility as more product will provide more slip, thus making it easier to move the polisher under pressure over the surface and less product will increase friction, thus making it more difficult to move the polisher under pressure over the surface. The most important consideration is to have the appropriate amount of product on the surface to enable you to work effectively. Too much product and the surface becomes too slippery and the diminishing abrasive cannot do their job, too little product and friction increases and you can micro-mar or haze the finish.

          3- Does polishing clayed car is easier than un-clayed one in term of the polishing process not on the final results?
          Yes. Paint that is smooth and free from above surface contaminants will always polish easier than paint that has a texture due to above surface contaminants. If possible, always clay a car first, before any other corrective processes. (Assuming the finish needs to be clayed).
          Mike Phillips
          760-515-0444
          showcargarage@gmail.com

          "Find something you like and use it often"

          Comment


          • #20
            Re: My V240 Makita 9227C has just arrived

            Originally posted by Mike Phillips View Post
            30 degree Celsius = 86 degree Fahrenheit, (In case anyone is wondering ).



            I'm sorry, there is really no way to give you an accurate time for this, it all depends on so many factors, paint quality, (or lack thereof to start with). 1-3 minutes would be a good guesstimate, I guess? The horizontal surfaces will always take longer than the vertical surfaces because they tend to be worse in condition.



            This is the nature of a direct drive rotary buffer and influenced by the angle of pressure placed upon the pad and your body as the controlling factor. You're correct however, typically, if you're standing in front of the hood on a car and making back and forth passes from left to right, the rotary buffer will tend to want to move easily from the right to the left, but will seem to offer more resistance when moving from the left to the right, it all has to do with the direction of the rotation of the pad and your position.

            As far as how much product you're using having an influence, this is a possibility as more product will provide more slip, thus making it easier to move the polisher under pressure over the surface and less product will increase friction, thus making it more difficult to move the polisher under pressure over the surface. The most important consideration is to have the appropriate amount of product on the surface to enable you to work effectively. Too much product and the surface becomes too slippery and the diminishing abrasive cannot do their job, too little product and friction increases and you can micro-mar or haze the finish.



            Yes. Paint that is smooth and free from above surface contaminants will always polish easier than paint that has a texture due to above surface contaminants. If possible, always clay a car first, before any other corrective processes. (Assuming the finish needs to be clayed).
            Thanks Mike. Just I've had learn it in the hard way previously (wish i read this when i started using rotary buffer). But i get it now, and operating rotary wasn't hard like before when i understand the nature of rotary characteristic.
            When moving the rotary become 2nd nature, then hologram free finish (on most paints) is nothing unusual...

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            • #21
              Re: My V240 Makita 9227C has just arrived

              Wow a 62.5 month threadmine!!!

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