Starting the Rotary Journey.

[Monk]

Tim--What I don't understand is why I didn't get all the scary things people talk about--haze, more or different swirling, buffer tracks. Its like someone was scaring me about the boogie man. Now this was a dark hood, but not black, so is it likely that I did actually cause that kind of defect, but I can't see it? I did a pretty careful visual in full sun.

BTW, if you look into the sun in pic #2, at the "Two O"Clock" position, you will see a line emanating to the righ. That is the ridge I mentioned I had created where the tape was (originally the right hand section had been divided in two with tape)--so I actually took off enough paint to see the ridge in a photograph.

Anyway, all that said, if I was just de-swirling a high quality clear coated factory paint job, would you start with 8006 and M80? Or would you use one of the other products?

[Tim Lingor]

Hi Monk,

Doing a small test square is still very different than buffing on a car. Granted, someone that has used a PC for a while and understands the various products should pick up using the rotary pretty fast. However, like I said, there is still a big difference between practice and reality.

If you feel ready, keep the RPM's down to around 1300, and use #80 with a W-8006 Pad. Work on small areas of your car at a time. And then look for holograms etc... Once youhave done that, then you will see some of the other issues that a test panel will not have shown you.

Would I be afraid of a rotary? No! But I would respect it! If you overheat, composite panels etc, you can run into a lot of trouble quickly! Here is a link where I explain some issues with wet sanding and buffing composite panels...

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3838

Tim

[Monk]

Nice write up on the wetsanding.

I will keep left half of this car lid untouched while I (and my son) experiment with the right half. Then I'll go to town on the entire left half and see what it looks like--and practice working around the curve in the rear.

Thanks for your guidance this weekend.

One last question and then I'll leave you alone, for a while anyway--if I do wind up with holograms, whould the DA get them out?

One other last question--new black lexus coming in the next ten days. Would you go straight to wax, or would you do a pure polish first, before the wax, and if so which polish (M03/M05). Do you see any reason to DA/M80 it before wax. Also, in another thread I noticed that you liked pure polishes on black, even if you used #80.

So, would you:

1. Wax
2. Pure polish. Wax. (Which polish?).
3. M80. Wax.
4. M80. Polish. Wax.

This would all be with the DA.

[Tim Lingor]

Hey Monk,

Glad I could help!

As for the new Lexus, unless the finish is perfect, which I doubt as somewhere along the line, someone would have washed it. I would clay the paint, then use the #80 with the W-8006 pad, and the PC. Then use #81 with another W-9006 Pad. Top with 2 coats of #21. That will leave that black paint, deep and rich looking!!!!

If you have holograms from the rotary after using #80, follow up with #80 again with the PC. That should remove the holograms just fine!

Tim

[Monk]

Tim--
I went to my PBE today and they said that #21 had been discontinued. Is this so?

I have 4 cans of old #16. Will this substitute? (I also have NXT Tech wax, Souverans, Gold Class Paste)

[Tim Lingor]

Hey Monk,

NO! Meguiar's #21 has not been discontinued. In fact, it has become extremely popular! It is one of my favorites!

Meguiar's #16 will look very nice on black. However, for added richness, I would top the #16 with #26.

Tim