Initial Order

[Jeff Smith]

Originally posted by gb387
j333_76484

That is a great looking truck! The wheels really set it off... Do you have any interior photos? I have only seen one around town and not had a close look yet.

I just uploaded the pics of the interior to my Gallery. No sense putting all of them in here.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/showgallery.php?si=&perpage=16&sort=1&cat=500&ppuser=4233&friendemail=email@yourfriend.com&password=

[Jeff Smith]

Jeff,

As for the areas you've inserted, use the M80 and work a small area for a long time, as in three passes, three different ways as outlined in the how-to article in the How To Forum.

You might even do this twice, if you do be sure you remove the residue from the first application before applying new product as to not adulterate the new product with old product.

If two applications of well worked-in M80 do not work then it will be time to substitute the M83

OK, I am off all next week to knock out some stuff around the house, including the truck project. I do have a couple more questions before I get going though.

I am changing up a bit and going with 2 coats of #20 topped with One Coat of #21. I like NXT but know have the BUG and want to experiment.

I understand Mike's input of multiple passes of #80 to remove the marks on the tailgate. If no go, then proceed to #83. Clear on that.

I have also purchased.
#82
#7
#2
#9

My question is, would I get any benefit of more shine, depth or reflection if I were to include any of the products listed above into the schedule? And if so at what point should I include them. For example would there be any benefit of using #70 after #80? And should I use either of the other products in the mix.

And if I could get a little more out of it from some other product not listed, what would that be, and at what point should I include those? Last night I orderd a 12 oz. Sample of every product Meg's makes for working with the paint. So I'll have stuff up the wazoo here in a few days. Also ordered 3 each of all the 6.5"pads to go along with the 5 of each type I have already.

I have a total of nine days off and plan on enjoying the weather and playing with my new DA as well as possibly the new Makita 9227 that will be here friday. I don't have the experience to put that to heavy work on a brand new paint job but I have the old beater I might play with.

So if I can do anything to get a little more pop outta this thing, I am all ears. I want bragging rights around here ya know.

[Jeff Smith]

I figured I would put another post on this to move it up in the cue.

Still looking for info concerning the previous post

[romulus]

Hello Jeff,
I guess that you got the Big time the detailing bug But here are my recommendations since it seems that you are similar products. Nothing wrong with that since you are still experimenting.

QUOTE "I am changing up a bit and going with 2 coats of #20 topped with One Coat of #21. I like NXT but know have the BUG and want to experiment."

#20 and #21 are polymer sealant like the NXT. The #21 combines traits from both #20 and NXT wax. i.e. depth and durability. So I would use either of the waxes mentioned. I have not tried the #21, but if you do have available I would use the 21 with 2 coats only. I believe by then the paint have reached its full potential.



I have also purchased.
#82
#7
#2
#9

QUOTE "My question is, would I get any benefit of more shine, depth or reflection if I were to include any of the products listed above into the schedule?"
IMO, your truck is basically new and white. Trying to create more reflection or depth would be harder to see. Here is an article from Mike regarding white paint for more in depth analysis.

http://www.bettercarcare.com/articles.php?articleId=39

QUOTE "And if so at what point should I include them. For example would there be any benefit of using #70 after #80? And should I use either of the other products in the mix."

I am assuming that #70 is #7. #80 has a lot of the rich oils from #7 so, you can skip it this time. The only time I use it is when I don¡¦t need to remove paint defects with #80. So, my routine is Wash, clay if needed, #7 , and NXT. As far as #2 if you have the new formula you can use it with your DA. Just read the back label to confirm the application method. I think that #2 is in between #83 and #80 as far as agresiveness.

QUOTE "I have a total of nine days off and plan on enjoying the weather and playing with my new DA as well as possibly the new Makita 9227 that will be here friday. I don't have the experience to put that to heavy work on a brand new paint job but I have the old beater I might play with."

Just be careful with the Makita. It takes a lot of practice to master it. I would recommend learning to use the DA first. It is fairly simple and BO BOO Proof. Once you are ready to step up, practice with a junk hood or panel. Don't want to see that you made holograms in you new ride or even in your beater.

Cheers.

[Jeff Smith]

Originally posted by romulus
Hello Jeff,
I guess that you got the Big time the detailing bug But here are my recommendations since it seems that you are similar products. Nothing wrong with that since you are still experimenting.

Yep, I am new to all this and plan on working on it while off. I want to make sure I have done whatever I can to get as much shine outta this thing as I can since I will have the time and products with which to do it

#20 and #21 are polymer sealant like the NXT. The #21 combines traits from both #20 and NXT wax. i.e. depth and durability. So I would use either of the waxes mentioned. I have not tried the #21, but if you do have available I would use the 21 with 2 coats only. I believe by then the paint have reached its full potential.

I am doing this as a result of some discussion on this on another thread:

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8380

Originally posted by 2hotford
Hey Jeff,

The best way to make white stand out is to make it glossy as you can not make it look deep like a dark color. After spending a great deal of time with #21, it looks fantastic all on its own. However, as I mentioned in the quote above, Meg's #16 does add a little more reflective look, but it is not a tremendous difference. Another combo I have been using on white is using #20 Polymer Sealant topped with #21. This also creates a very highly reflective finish with an awesome gloss!

#IMO, your truck is basically new and white. Trying to create more reflection or depth would be harder to see. Here is an article from Mike regarding white paint for more in depth analysis.

http://www.bettercarcare.com/articles.php?articleId=39

I'll check that out. Thanks

I am assuming that #70 is #7. #80 has a lot of the rich oils from #7 so, you can skip it this time. The only time I use it is when I don¡¦t need to remove paint defects with #80. So, my routine is Wash, clay if needed, #7 , and NXT. As far as #2 if you have the new formula you can use it with your DA. Just read the back label to confirm the application method. I think that #2 is in between #83 and #80 as far as agresiveness.

I think what I might do is go with Mike's recommendation, as well as yours and use the #80 on the tailgate and jump up to #83 if needed with the DA. I may use #7 SHOW CAR GLAZE on the rest of the vehicle andalso as a finishing step to the tailgat before going for the LSP. The rest of the truck is fine except from a few MF instilled marks.


QUOTE]Just be careful with the Makita. It takes a lot of practice to master it. I would recommend learning to use the DA first. It is fairly simple and BO BOO Proof. Once you are ready to step up, practice with a junk hood or panel. Don't want to see that you made holograms in you new ride or even in your beater.[/QUOTE]

Yeah, me neither. But trust me the beater is not going to see any improvement from the DA. When I get ready t start it I'll take some pics first and start a new thread. This thing has the whole gambit of problems for me to play with.

[Superior Shine]

Part of your question was about the use of the micro fiber bonnets for the DA.

I don't like'em but only for removing product from the surface of large vehicles such as an RV or travel trailer.

To use one on a car or truck removes the romance of feeling the slickness of freshly polished paint. There isn't another part of detailing that I enjoy more than removing product by hand with a micro fiber folded in fours in my hand, gliding it over the curves -removing the LSP revealing the brilliant shine.

[Jeff Smith]

Originally posted by Superior Shine
Part of your question was about the use of the micro fiber bonnets for the DA.

I don't like'em but only for removing product from the surface of large vehicles such as an RV or travel trailer.

Noted, somethin to think about

[o use one on a car or truck removes the romance of feeling the slickness of freshly polished paint. There isn't another part of detailing that I enjoy more than removing product by hand with a micro fiber folded in fours in my hand, gliding it over the curves -removing the LSP revealing the brilliant shine.

Careful there fella We are gonna loose our "G" rating here. I am getting excited.

So in your opinion, Hand removal of the LSP yields better results than through the use of the DA w/ MF bonnet? Or are you just talking about the emotional aspect of the Hand rubbing?