My corvette has awful acid rain etching and very hard paint. I used the microfiber cutting pad and compound and worked it thoroughly with my PC. I worked a small test area on speed setting 5 and 6 with a good amount of pressure. Some of the spots are a bit less noticeable but I will need something more aggressive...is m105 with a soft buff cutting pad the next logical choice? I have a feeling that if the microfiber system couldn't cut it, then the etching may be too much for the DA. Thoughts? Thanks in advance.
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da microfiber didn't cut it, try m105 next?
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Re: da microfiber didn't cut it, try m105 next?
I used MF and D300 on this Vett last week with no problems.
I can come look at it if you'd like. I'm in RSM
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ted!&highlight=
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Re: da microfiber didn't cut it, try m105 next?
Originally posted by C5 Vette View PostThanks bob, I'll give that a try. If rotary is needed, I'd imagine that the da300 would be suitable to remove any haziness from the wool pad/105.
These need to be polished out in order to get a flat reflective surface.
<----- take a closer look at my avatar.
haze needs a lighter polish to remove that. as in M205 or even a cleaner wax will sometimes remove haze.
Originally posted by bobrose View PostYes, I use the 300 and DA after the wool pad/rotary. I rarely use a foam pad because the wool pad cuts better and the 300/DA will clean it up just fine.
I can cut a car pretty good with a Burgundy pad and M105.
A wool pad on a rotary is an advanced skill. So foam on a DA polisher is a safer way to achieve the same results.
and you use D300 with a DA and what kind of pad?
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Re: da microfiber didn't cut it, try m105 next?
Originally posted by Please Wash Me Detailing View Posta wool pad will leave micro scratches/buffer marks.
These need to be polished out in order to get a flat reflective surface.
<----- take a closer look at my avatar.
haze needs a lighter polish to remove that. as in M205 or even a cleaner wax will sometimes remove haze.
Foam and wool are two different pieces of hardware.
I can cut a car pretty good with a Burgundy pad and M105.
A wool pad on a rotary is an advanced skill. So foam on a DA polisher is a safer way to achieve the same results.
and you use D300 with a DA and what kind of pad?
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Re: da microfiber didn't cut it, try m105 next?
MF pads are closer to a wool pad then foam.D300 is apowerfull compound and M205 is a lighter polishing compound.I cut with D300 and a MF pad then follow it up with M205 if needed. Use what works for you. I can't tell you what you need to do I can only advise on what I've done and offer suggestions.All paint is different.
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Re: da microfiber didn't cut it, try m105 next?
Originally posted by C5 Vette View PostMy corvette has awful acid rain etching and very hard paint. I used the microfiber cutting pad and compound and worked it thoroughly with my PC. I worked a small test area on speed setting 5 and 6 with a good amount of pressure. Some of the spots are a bit less noticeable but I will need something more aggressive...is m105 with a soft buff cutting pad the next logical choice? I have a feeling that if the microfiber system couldn't cut it, then the etching may be too much for the DA. Thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Also when using the MF pads are you doing the proper brushing or blowing between passes? Using minimal amounts of product?
I too am a fan of the D300 and M105 combo. M101 and DAMF have actually become my new go to. Still can;t get over the smell of M101 but the leveling and finish it leaves are beyond what I thought I would ever accomplish. Also not that it is always dependent are you using the correct sized pads...smaller pads will have more cut because of the increase pressure per sq. in.
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Re: da microfiber didn't cut it, try m105 next?
Originally posted by Please Wash Me Detailing View PostMF pads are closer to a wool pad then foam.D300 is apowerfull compound and M205 is a lighter polishing compound.I cut with D300 and a MF pad then follow it up with M205 if needed. Use what works for you. I can't tell you what you need to do I can only advise on what I've done and offer suggestions.All paint is different.
I am using D300 then D301 as my normal workflow. for deep defects, bad water spots, etc. depending on severity I use D300+105 with MF Disk; or M105 alone with MF Disk; or 105 with a wool pad. If I use 105 with MF or wool pad I always finish up with D300 then D301.
Are you using 205 in place of D301 because you are protecting with a different wax/sealant, or is it a haze issue that the D301 isn't working on.
BTW, thanks for the conversation. It's really cool to get a window in to how other people approach things.
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