First go around with the DA

[harshest]

Re: First go around with the DA

Also what is IPA?

isopropyl alcohol - mix 50/50 with water in a spray bottle.

[Spectre32]

Re: First go around with the DA

What kind of IPA?? Like the High test 91% or the 70%.

[Bounty]

Re: First go around with the DA

What kind of IPA?? Like the High test 91% or the 70%.

I use the higher grade 91% but both will work...

[Caress Detailing]

Re: First go around with the DA

I know most suggest to "Use the least aggressive job done" but...

To get out those kind of defects with a DA will take me awhile. You may need to bump up to a maroon cutting pad with m105 and then polish with m205 on a polishing pad.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: First go around with the DA

For M105 I used setting 3 and a new soft buff 2.0 Yellow pad. For the M205 I used setting 5 and then a new clean yellow soft buff 2.0 pad. I applied pressure but as to how much I could not telly you. On the M105 I applied pressure even until the product worked in. On 205 I used even pressures on the first 2 passes and then lighted up on the final.

In a way this is almost a bit backwards. As others have mentioned, run the M105 at speed 5 with the W8207 Soft Buff 2.0 Polishing Pad (yellow) and use a fair amount of pressure. But when you step down to the M205 change to the W9207 Soft Buff 2.0 Finishing Pad (black) and run the machine at speed 3 or 4 and use only moderate to light pressure.

It is possible that the W8207 pad was a bit too aggressive for your particular paint when coupled with the M205 and that it marred the really nice finish you got with the M105/W8207. Nonetheless, you should be taking a slightly more gentle approach with the M205 than you do with the M105.

[Markus Kleis]

Re: New to all of this.

Well for starters you should bump the speed up to speed 5 for both the M105 and the M205. Speed 3 is intended for spreading wax, and you will get a significant increase in defect removal power on speed 5.

How large of an area were you working at a time?

Do you have a finishing (black) pad? I would try again on a test spot with the M105 on yellow at speed 5, assess, and if the defects are gone or very close to gone switch to the M205 on a black finishing pad. You can work the M205 longer than the M105, but do not work it dry.

Give that a shot and see how it turns out.

[Spectre32]

Re: First go around with the DA

Ok, well I'm going to go grab some more stuff for detailing and I'll take a slew of pictures tonight and we shall see how this turns out. Thanks for the input. Oh yes.. is there naything I need to do to Re-prep the area? I was going to spt wash the tailgate. re tape it off and start form scratch.

[Spectre32]

Re: New to all of this.

I was working like a 2' x 2' area and yes i have black finishing pads. As for working it dry, I know that when you apply it as you make passes it slowly start to fade to the base color. I always try to leave a little "white-ish" residue cause i can always apply more. I would like to continue on with this region. Is there anything I need to do to prep it for a redo?

[Markus Kleis]

Re: New to all of this.

I was working like a 2' x 2' area and yes i have black finishing pads. As for working it dry, I know that when you apply it as you make passes it slowly start to fade to the base color. I always try to leave a little "white-ish" residue cause i can always apply more. I would like to continue on with this region. Is there anything I need to do to prep it for a redo?

I would bring your working area down to 1 square foot, and use a little less product to adjust accordingly. Also, test your pressure to find the point where the spinning stops, and then back out a little bit so you are getting rotation but there is still a sizable amount of down force (15-20 pounds, something you can test on a scale in your home).

It looks like you should start with M105 again, and then move to M205. You may need to do M105/yellow, M205/yellow, M205/black.

As for prepping the surface, just clean it like you normally would.

[fzr confused]

Re: First go around with the DA

sounds like a game plan, just wash it again and go. 205 sometimes can be used with the yellow pad, and sometimes it needs the black, depends how soft or hard your paint is. 205 has very little cut so the yellow pad might not be able to get the scratches that the pad puts on with just the 205. although i have used 205 on several ford paints with the yellow and never had that problem, but every paint is different, even if it was the same color on the same vehicle from the same plant. do a test spot with diff pads/products and see what works best

[Spectre32]

Re: New to all of this.

Here are big pictures of the ones in small:

M105 pass 2


M205 Pass 2




Tailgate wax buildup



Note.. by the time i took the M205 passes it was well into dark

[Markus Kleis]

Re: New to all of this.

Well it looks like you are getting a lot of marring, something I have not yet experienced on that kind of Ford paint. Not really sure why, only thing that comes to mind would be from the following possible causes: A.) The product is not being worked long enough by a fairly wide margin, or it is being over worked by a wide margin, B.) The towel removing the product is too rough or contaminated + too much pressure C.) The finishing pressure or timing just isn't right.

Do you have any other finishing products? Maybe M80 or M82? Sometimes products just don't play well with certain paints and simply swapping the product out for a different type of product will do the trick.

As for the wax, a Meguiar's All-purpose cleaner would be perfect to remove that extra wax- just spray it on a microfiber and lightly scrub the area.

As for the really severe white scratches, your only fix is likely going to be to get an artist's brush and gentle fill those in.

[Markus Kleis]

Re: New to all of this.

I just realized you created two threads with the same exact problems and pictures, which really doesn't help. You end up splitting the replies and getting confusion.

I'm merging them together now.

[Spectre32]

Re: New to all of this.

Well it looks like you are getting a lot of marring, something I have not yet experienced on that kind of Ford paint. Not really sure why, only thing that comes to mind would be from the following possible causes: A.) The product is not being worked long enough by a fairly wide margin, or it is being over worked by a wide margin, B.) The towel removing the product is too rough or contaminated + too much pressure C.) The finishing pressure or timing just isn't right.

Do you have any other finishing products? Maybe M80 or M82? Sometimes products just don't play well with certain paints and simply swapping the product out for a different type of product will do the trick.

As for the wax, a Meguiar's All-purpose cleaner would be perfect to remove that extra wax- just spray it on a microfiber and lightly scrub the area.

As for the really severe white scratches, your only fix is likely going to be to get an artist's brush and gentle fill those in.

Well the tailgate is not OEM. Its OEM in the sense that its another ford gate, but my local body shop did all of the work on it. I do not have any other products listed. The only other things I have are a cleaner wax in the maroon bottle and Step 2 of the three step paint care system. I have some scratch X and the rest is pure wax. Would you say that I have the inital passes of M105 down correctly?

[Spectre32]

Re: First go around with the DA

I'm stopping today to get a 7" DA backing plate and some agressive clay, I'll see if they have M80/M82.