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**Markus Kleis** · Jul 10, 2009, 03:50 PM

Re: New to all of this.

Looks like you have a great starting arsenal at your disposal.

I noticed that the truck definitely has been buffed with a high speed buffer (rotary) as it has classic buffer trails (holograms).

After a thorough wash, drying, and clay session I would start out with your G110, a yellow polishing pad, and some M205 and work a 16x16 area and inspect the paint. If you are getting the level of correction you need, continue with that. If you are really close, try a second pass and see if that does the trick.

If you still aren't close then try the M105 via the yellow polishing pad and adjust from there. Remember the key is to use ample pressure (15-20 pounds of downforce, while slowing but not stopping the pad spinning), keeping the pad contact flat (don't rest on edges), and to move slowly, maybe 1 inch per second while working a small area. This helps to insure that the product has a chance to do its job.

After you do a test spot with M105 you will likely see it is giving the correction you desire. You can then follow that up with the M205 on a yellow or black pad depending on whether or not you need a pinch of extra bite or not.

Be sure to take lots of pictures!

**Eddie6th** · Jul 10, 2009, 05:22 PM

Re: New to all of this.

Cool starting kit!

**J. A. Michaels** · Jul 10, 2009, 05:39 PM

Re: New to all of this.

Great start up kit. Enjoy it. Good luck.

**Spectre32** · Jul 11, 2009, 07:26 AM

Re: New to all of this.

Excellent input. My stuff should be getting here next Tuesday. I will try to assemble some more pictures and what have you as i progress. My next question is I have APC and APC+ and QO and a man sized shovac. 6.25 HP version. What would be the best appraoch to clean my interiors out? I have cloth seats, and cloth flooring. There isn't anything crazy on my carpet just general durt and such. However on my seats i have some stians from greese and what not.

**Markus Kleis** · Jul 11, 2009, 09:22 AM

Re: New to all of this.

The APC+ is meant for using a true extractor since it doesn't foam up as much, so if you are doing extraction-type work on the seats you may want to use the APC+.

The APC will work for anything else, but then again, so will the APC+

**Spectre32** · Jul 12, 2009, 08:57 AM

Re: New to all of this.

When you say extractor, you mean like a steam type cleaner?

**Markus Kleis** · Jul 12, 2009, 02:47 PM

Re: New to all of this.

Originally posted by Spectre32 View Post

When you say extractor, you mean like a steam type cleaner?

Well, to be technically correct, not quite.

A steamer is a machine that literally creates and disperses extremely hot steam and is used to sometimes scrub as well. It has no reclamation process. It does not involve the use of products either.

An extractor is a machine that has two canisters: one filled with cleaning solution (APC+), which it uses to spray out onto stains, and one used to house the liquid that is sucked back into the extractor (the "extractor" name comes from this action) through a vacuum-like hose.

Bissell makes a very cheap and portable unit for under $100 called the Little Green Machine that is very popular. I have a LGM and a steamer.

**Spectre32** · Jul 13, 2009, 05:32 AM

Re: New to all of this.

Yeah, I have seen this guy at costco. i was debating if I should invest in one or not.

**Spectre32** · Jul 14, 2009, 02:21 PM

Re: New to all of this.

WELP... All of my supplies came today I'm off to see what I can do to my truck!

**Spectre32** · Jul 14, 2009, 06:54 PM

First go around with the DA

OK so my truck is in shambles, I washed it... clayed it and then picked the worst spot to try out my new products. I just got a G110 and two bottle of M105 and M205. Here is what the truck looked like before the wash and claying:

SO after I wash the truck it looks instantly better and I look around it for the worst section. The tail gate has got to be it. I clay it where needed and this is what a section of it looks like prior to applying anything:

Pretty Nasty... So I tape of a section and apply one coat of M105 and it make a difference but not that much. I apply another coat and its NIGHT AND DAY! I was so happy I didn't even snap a picture of it! SO I precede to do the whole tailgate and then follow up with some M205. For M105 I used setting 3 and a new soft buff 2.0 Yellow pad. For the M205 I used setting 5 and then a new clean yellow soft buff 2.0 pad. I applied pressure but as to how much I could not telly you. On the M105 I applied pressure even until the product worked in. On 205 I used even pressures on the first 2 passes and then lighted up on the final. Well This is what is looks like now:

However when I get in close I see all of this!!!!!??!?!

SO My theory here is that I did most everything OK with M105 and i have no idea what i did wrong with M205. However here are some questions:

First off m105 did a GREAT job, but I still noticed I had scratches and such left behind even after two coats. Is it me or are those scratches not meant to be taken out with a DA? When I retool this Swirl fiesta I created for the next few days I'll be sure to take more intermediate pictures. See My truck is in such bad shapes ALL OF IT needs this treatment. So I picking one section of it to do right now until I have some sort of technique down. I can surly say that after the first two passes of M105 that paint had no swirl marks and the only think remaining was some random scratches.

**Bounty** · Jul 14, 2009, 08:47 PM

Re: First go around with the DA

Originally posted by Spectre32 View Post

For M105 I used setting 3 and a new soft buff 2.0 Yellow pad. For the M205 I used setting 5 and then a new clean yellow soft buff 2.0 pad.

Problem # 1: Too slow a machine speed setting. The M105 is your heavy cut compound and is there to remove defects. You need to slap on a polishing pad and go at it on speed setting 5 as a minimum if not speed setting 6. At speed setting three you are doing very little and the machine will easily bog down at this speed when pressed. You want to use an arm speed of approximatley 0.5" to 1.0" per second on speed setting 5 with medium pressure (10 to 15 lbs). When completing a test section wipe it down with an IPA mix to remove lubricating oils that can "fill" and mask defects. Repeat this process until you're satisfied with the level of correction. Use proper lighting (Brinkmann, sun, etc) to examine your work.

See My truck is in such bad shapes ALL OF IT needs this treatment. So I picking one section of it to do right now until I have some sort of technique down.

Exactly correct. Zero down your process and do not leave the test area until you have discovered a repeatable process that provides satisfactory results you can consistently repeat over the entire truck.

After your M105 steps, switch over to the M205 to clean up any induced defects (micromarring, hazing, etc) and to polish the surface to a high gloss. Since you've removed the majority of defects during the previous phases this is a burnishing step hence the use of M205...a finishing glaze. Final wipedown here can be performed with a clean microfiber to leave the infusing oils behind and leave the best possible appearance.

**Carfire** · Jul 14, 2009, 09:33 PM

Re: First go around with the DA

**Spectre32** · Jul 15, 2009, 02:48 AM

Re: First go around with the DA

So what should i do since I now applied these two products? Will the higher speed and perhaps added pressure/slower paces take a majorty of the "scratches" i saw out of the paint? Why did M105 look okk and then M205 did not if i used the wrong technique on M105?

**Spectre32** · Jul 15, 2009, 04:01 AM

Re: First go around with the DA

Also what is IPA?

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First go around with the DA

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