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The G110 Dual Action polisher rotates (spins) and orbits.
Mike
i know, but if he was putting too much pressure which would make the clutch kick in and not let the pad spin (just oscillate) that would cut down severely on the cutting power and hence not be able to get the swirls out
i know, but if he was putting too much pressure which would make the clutch kick in and not let the pad spin (just oscillate) that would cut down severely on the cutting power and hence not be able to get the swirls out
My bad. I misread your question.
Mike
Why do we drive on a Parkway, and park on a Driveway
I used a black sharpie and made a horizontal line across the yellow edges of the backing plate. I put down moderate pressure and I could tell the pad was spinning due to the black line from the marker spinning as well. So is it hopless for a DA to remove these or maybe I just need to add more product to my pad? I have yet to try that method but thought I would try and get some more information before I proceed.
Mike, after reading those threads about working by hand would you suggest I would use a foam applicator pad with some M105 and just use a lot of pressure in a very small work area? Maybe ultimate compound would be better. I should have also mentioned that the car was waxed this past september with NXT 2.0. I just figured by now it was safe to polish. You think I should clay the work area before I do this?
Mike, after reading those threads about working by hand would you suggest I would use a foam applicator pad with some M105 and just use a lot of pressure in a very small work area?
It would be worth testing for sure...
You do have to keep in mind that you have to balance your pressure so as to apply enough to remove some paint particles but don't push so hard as you put fingermarks into the paint during the process.
You can use terry cloth to give the M105 more bite, (make it more aggressive and then do a second pass using the same product with a foam pad to remove any toweling marks from the first process.
The advanced technique if you have the tools, the experience and know how much film-build you have to work with would be to re-sand the area by machine if possible and this will remove the scratches and then buff out your sanding marks using a rotary.
But again, if you already own M105 and you already own a hand, then you could do some testing with M105 by hand and see what you can do.
While this isn't a sanding mark it is the same idea, a deep scratch and it was easily removed by hand with UC
I tried dealing with the scratches this evening. I chose the hood where there were a few noticable spots. I used a terry cloth applicator with M105 and went over the spots with some elbow grease to work the product in. I am happy to say I removed 99% of the scratches by using this method. There are still some other spots including the decklid but i'll deal with those later in the weekened. Thanks for everyones help.
I tried dealing with the scratches this evening. I chose the hood where there were a few noticeable spots. I used a terry cloth applicator with M105 and went over the spots with some elbow grease to work the product in.
I am happy to say I removed 99% of the scratches by using this method.
Good to hear of your success!
Sometimes terry cloth or terry cloth applicators like you can find at most auto parts stores can leave fine scratches when used with pressure to work out defects, so inspect your results carefully afterwards and if you see any fine marring or scratching simply follow-up by applying the same product or even a less aggressive product with a foam applicator pad by hand or with a DA Polisher.
Keep us posted and how about a couple full size pictures of the finished project?
Mike Phillips 760-515-0444 showcargarage@gmail.com "Find something you like and use it often"
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