using a rotary for the first time tomorrow, help!

[99GrandTouring]

Hey guys, tomorrow I'm getting my first chance to use a rotary, actually I used it once before to buff the yellow out of my headlights and it worked quite well.
Just wondering for some suggestions, I'm going to be using it on my g/f's black ford escape that has some spider webbing.
I'm going to use the products I have first
Gold class wash (2 bucket)
Clay bar
then Deep crystal paint cleaner
deep crystal polish
nxt wax

Now I've done this before using a wally world buffer but never a rotary, the pads that I have acces to are foam with little "knobs" sticking out of it, its not a smooth pad. and a fine polishing pad.
Our detailer (at the dealership who is letting me use the buffer) has done quite well with these pads and he says there is little to no risk at damage, as long as I keep it around 1-2 setting for speed.

If those products aren't aggressive enough he has some swirl remover 2.0 I can use.
So any reccomendations or tips, the more the better!
Thanks!

[99GrandTouring]

sorry its diamond cut compound 2.0...

The only thing I'm worried about is the pad, with its bumps on it (its the way the pads made) it would seem they would be worse than a smooth/flat pad but he always has great results with it.

[Pete-FWA]

Who manufactured the pads? Meguiar's foam pads are all flat, by the way.

The nibs on the pad are nothing to worry about in regards to damaging the paint. Many people think the waffle design helps keep down heat on the surface. While I've never scientifically proved or disproved this, the more important issue in your situation is:

Diamond Cut is very aggressive. This is where holograms from the compounding will show on the finish. This is also the step where you are most likely to inflict damage to the finish. NOT in any way trying to discourage you, but using such a compound can be frustrating without experience. Were you planning on using the other products with the rotary or just the Diamond Cut?

[Tim Lingor]

Hey 99GrandTouring


Firstly...WHOA!!!!! STOP!!!!

Meguiar's #85 Diamond Cut 2.0 is not for the beginner or even the intermediate rotary buffer user. It is VERY aggressive and is designed to remove wet sanding marks from paint. Further, it takes a lot of practice to learn the rotary and one should avoid black paint with the rotary until that skill level is thoroughly developed. Even at low speeds, #85 could instill severe buffer burns or holograms or even worse.

The waffle pads the tech was using is most likely 3M pads. Regardless, that compound is way too aggressive to learn with.

Instead, if you still plan on trying the rotary without first practicing on different panels, then I would suggest using Meguiar's #80 Speed Glaze with a Meguiar's W-8006 Polishing Pad. Run the rotary at 1000 RPM-1300 RPM and really watch that you are not creating buffer burns. When you are done, pull the Escape out into the sun and take a look under the direct sunlight.

I have to be very honest here, attempting your first rotary experince on black paint is extremely risky! I have used a rotary for over 16 years and black is the most difficult color to deal with. I would strongly encourage you to consider a Dual Action Polisher like Meguiar's G100 which is a much safer alternative. Or...spend some time learning to use the rotary on vehicles that are not important to you. I am not trying to discourage you!! But you must take your time before diving into the deep end.

Tim

[Pete-FWA]

Tim, you were a tiny bit more direct than I was.

[Tim Lingor]

Originally posted by Pete-FWA
Tim, you were a tiny bit more direct than I was.

Yea....I was just trying to convey that there is a high risk to learn the rotary on black paint; a mistake could be very severe and costly.

Tim

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

Originally posted by 2hotford
Yea....I was just trying to convey that there is a high risk to learn the rotary on black paint; a mistake could be very severe and costly.

Tim

You hit the nail on the head. Personally I "learned" the rotary using M83 with a W8006 on a black Aurora (see below), and I had no problems whatsoever. However, I must mention that I'd been using the G100 for about 3-4 years prior -- so I already knew good basic technique for a "larger" and "more powerful" machine.

Jumping from a Wen/Waxmaster all the way to the rotary is going to be a whole different ballgame, though. You definitely want to avoid a harsh pad/product combo like M85; like Tim said it's best to start with either M80, or M09.

Good luck, though!

[99GrandTouring]

Well guys, I didn't get your advice in time....


But no worrys, I didn't attempt the diamond cut, I figured it be way to aggressive.
I did however use the rotatry with the foam waffle pads and the meguiars deep crystal cleaner / polish.

I never went above 2 on the rotary.
First thoughts, is you really have to have a grip on it to keep it where you want it, I went slow making for sure to keep checking and I must say everything turned out great!

The Deep crystal wasn't enough to get out some scratches but alot of the spider webbing was removed.

The paint is clear enough now to see the factory orange peel
Shop lighting is good and it was dusk when I pulled it out, tomorrow when the sun is out will be the real test, I'll take pictures.

This was my method, the car had not been hand washed or waxed in over a year.
Wash with a hd cleaner/degreaser we had at the shop.
Two bucket wash with nxt tech wash
Clay magic bar
Rotary on 2 with a foam waffle pad, with deep crystal cleaner
Rotary on 1 with a foam "polishing" pad with deep crystal polish
NXT tech wax paste.

All in all I'm very pleased, eventhough I haven't seen it in direct sunlight I can tell already its a way better job than I could have done with the orbital and the results are already better.

Only thing I disliked is due to inexperience I slung alot of product everywhere
Thanks!

[99GrandTouring]

another question, the crown vics paint is worse off than the escapes is, I know the deep crystal system isn't strong enough.
Would it be better to use speed glaze or dacp?
Thanks!

[LiquidBlack]

Glad you caught yourself sir!

Rule is to go with the least aggressive product first. If it is ineffective, move up to a more aggressive product.

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

Originally posted by 99GrandTouring
another question, the crown vics paint is worse off than the escapes is, I know the deep crystal system isn't strong enough.
Would it be better to use speed glaze or dacp?
Thanks!

Start with M80, but if that doesn't cut it to your liking try moving up to M82 (Swirl Free Polish) -- DACP is a tough call for me, I only use it if there are REALLY bad scratches and swirls.

[black240sx]

Wait a minute... I thought Swirl Free Polish was less abrasive than Speed Glaze.

[Tim Lingor]

Hey,

I am glad it turned out for you!!! Please post some pictures, with some in the direct sunlight.

Start with #80 Speed Glaze with a W-8006 Polishing Pad and the rotary spinning ~1300 RPM. If this does not do it, then move on to #83 DACP, then step back down. Use a separate pad per product.

Yes, #80 Speed Glaze is more aggressive than #82.

It goes #82, then #80, then #83 in terms of aggressiveness.

Tim

[99GrandTouring]

Well here are the results, its partly cloudy today, so I can't get a perfect "sun shot" but its bright enough, once again its not perfect but I feel for a first time using a rotary on a car that hadn't been hand washed or waxed in over a year it turned out pretty darn good..

[99GrandTouring]