Question when approaching challenging paints

[Chop]

I am wondering how people who do this more often than I do approach the following:

Say the most aggressive liquid at hand is M105.

If I start with a polishing pad (DFP5) and do a small section test with 5 passes. After inspecting results I see some
improvement but not 100% satisfied. Not sure if at this point I should repeat the section again or move to the next aggressive pad.

How many times should above step be repeated before moving on to a more aggressive pad?

The car I am working on is my DD (2000 Mercedes Benz C230K).

[DasBurninator]

Re: Question when approaching challenging paints

I am wondering how people who do this more often than I do approach the following:

Say the most aggressive liquid at hand is M105.

If I start with a polishing pad (DFP5) and do a small section test with 5 passes. After inspecting results I see some
improvement but not 100% satisfied. Not sure if at this point I should repeat the section again or move to the next aggressive pad.

How many times should above step be repeated before moving on to a more aggressive pad?

The car I am working on is my DD (2000 Mercedes Benz C230K).

Test spot tells all.

Do a test spot with M105 on a cutting pad next to the section you just did and compare. See if it got you where you needed to be.

If it is close but still not quite there I would probably do another few passes but short cycle it and stop after say 2-3 passes and inspect

The idea with the test spot is to determine what your process will be to get the paint looking how you want it, then you can apply that process to the whole car. That way you aren't playing a guessing game with the rest of the car.

Something else I will suggest is trying M100 instead of M105. It has a much longer working time and you might get a bit more cut out of it. It is definitely easier to work with.

[Top Gear]

Re: Question when approaching challenging paints

I'll suggest M101, but I realize the question is about UC/M105.

Chop, I've been in the same position. I'd definitely switch to your cutting pad. The 5 passes and still being underwhelmed is a signal that you'll need a major step up in aggression in order to spend less time and energy getting the work done. One trick is to increase the speed and pressure with the cutting pad and UC/M105. Yet, if you're already maxed out (as I was when I was using that combo), then you'll wear yourself out trying to get great results.

However, also keep in mind that at least some of the more faint defects will be hidden with a full polish step (or two) and then the wax (I even do a separate compound step as a pre-polish, or M101 then full DAMF). So, you don't have to push for absolute perfection at the compound step, as long as you're getting the main defects and thoroughly cleaning and smoothing the finish. Make sure you test spot the full correction to see how you feel about the result, then adjust each step as needed. If all that fails, then IMO it's time to get more aggressive products - working smart rather than hard. If you get to that point, you might look into the MF pads and M101 or M100, but try them first with your M105.

Hope that helps

[Chop]

Re: Question when approaching challenging paints

Test spot tells all.

Do a test spot with M105 on a cutting pad next to the section you just did and compare. See if it got you where you needed to be.

If it is close but still not quite there I would probably do another few passes but short cycle it and stop after say 2-3 passes and inspect

The idea with the test spot is to determine what your process will be to get the paint looking how you want it, then you can apply that process to the whole car. That way you aren't playing a guessing game with the rest of the car.

Something else I will suggest is trying M100 instead of M105. It has a much longer working time and you might get a bit more cut out of it. It is definitely easier to work with.

I already did a test spot but wasn't sure if I was bailing out too soon to go to the next step in aggressiveness.

I'll suggest M101, but I realize the question is about UC/M105.

Chop, I've been in the same position. I'd definitely switch to your cutting pad. The 5 passes and still being underwhelmed is a signal that you'll need a major step up in aggression in order to spend less time and energy getting the work done. One trick is to increase the speed and pressure with the cutting pad and UC/M105. Yet, if you're already maxed out (as I was when I was using that combo), then you'll wear yourself out trying to get great results.

However, also keep in mind that at least some of the more faint defects will be hidden with a full polish step (or two) and then the wax (I even do a separate compound step as a pre-polish, or M101 then full DAMF). So, you don't have to push for absolute perfection at the compound step, as long as you're getting the main defects and thoroughly cleaning and smoothing the finish. Make sure you test spot the full correction to see how you feel about the result, then adjust each step as needed. If all that fails, then IMO it's time to get more aggressive products - working smart rather than hard. If you get to that point, you might look into the MF pads and M101 or M100, but try them first with your M105.

Hope that helps

Exactly, I don't want to beat this and get nowhere, be all beatup and see no progress. I still see some main defects after the test spots hence my OP. So it looks like I have maxed out (tried more pressure but not the fastest setting on the polisher yet) with what I have which is DFP5 and DFC5 and M105 and a Meg's polisher (old gen) so I see a need to move up either the compound or the pad. My M105 bottle is running low so maybe it's time to get some new liquids.

So I have some options:

1. Get some MF pads and try with M105
2. Get either M100 or M101 and try with DFC5
3. Get MF Pads with D300
4. Live up with this as it's my DD. nahh!

Any recommendations to get this done with the least amount of trial/spending?

[Top Gear]

Re: Question when approaching challenging paints

Yes, maybe save that little bit of M105 for testing. IMO, foam is never going to get you there, especially if this isn't at least a Porter Cable machine. I'd go for #1-3 and try different combos. M101 is quite expensive, but worth it in the long run. M100 is a very close second, but M101 is the most aggressive product Meguiar's makes. For me, knowing that was worth a few extra bucks, so I'd be SURE I was getting the most out of the DA.

[The Guz]

Re: Question when approaching challenging paints

I already did a test spot but wasn't sure if I was bailing out too soon to go to the next step in aggressiveness.



Exactly, I don't want to beat this and get nowhere, be all beatup and see no progress. I still see some main defects after the test spots hence my OP. So it looks like I have maxed out (tried more pressure but not the fastest setting on the polisher yet) with what I have which is DFP5 and DFC5 and M105 and a Meg's polisher (old gen) so I see a need to move up either the compound or the pad. My M105 bottle is running low so maybe it's time to get some new liquids.

So I have some options:

1. Get some MF pads and try with M105
2. Get either M100 or M101 and try with DFC5
3. Get MF Pads with D300
4. Live up with this as it's my DD. nahh!

Any recommendations to get this done with the least amount of trial/spending?

Does your Mercedes have ceramic clear? The way to find out is if there is a C either before or after the paint code

[drumdan]

Re: Question when approaching challenging paints

I am wondering how people who do this more often than I do approach the following:

Say the most aggressive liquid at hand is M105.

If I start with a polishing pad (DFP5) and do a small section test with 5 passes. After inspecting results I see some
improvement but not 100% satisfied. Not sure if at this point I should repeat the section again or move to the next aggressive pad.

How many times should above step be repeated before moving on to a more aggressive pad?

The car I am working on is my DD (2000 Mercedes Benz C230K).

What machine are you using?
What speed?
How are you preparing, and loading the pad?
How much pressure?

In that situation I will only change one parameter of the equasion. Either the juice, or the pad.

Sometimes just altering the amount of compound I reload the pad with will make the difference.

Lately I've been adding a touch more, to get more abrasives on the paint, and actually moving from speed 6 to speeds 4-5 on the PC. I want to get backplate rotation, but don't want to dry out my liquid. Speed 6 with UC dries out on me pretty quickly. That's why I typically use M100 or Ultimate Compound.

[Chop]

Re: Question when approaching challenging paints

IMO, foam is never going to get you there, especially if this isn't at least a Porter Cable machine.

I am using a Meguiar's Polisher G110

Does your Mercedes have ceramic clear? The way to find out is if there is a C either before or after the paint code

Not sure. Google gives me conflicting results. There is a C in the plate under the hood with a bunch of numbers. There is no C next to the color code on the sticker on the door jamb. I color code cross checked with online vendors of touch up paints (i,e the sticker shows 143 with no C which is same code from online touch ups

What machine are you using?
What speed?
How are you preparing, and loading the pad?
How much pressure?

Speed 5.
Priming the pad, and then adding 3 dime sized liquid
Moderate pressure always making sure the pad still moves.

[drumdan]

Re: Question when approaching challenging paints

I am using a Meguiar's Polisher G110







Speed 5.
Priming the pad, and then adding 3 dime sized liquid
Moderate pressure always making sure the pad still moves.

Ok, that sounds good.

In that case, I might add a fourth drop of product, and lighten up the pressure just a touch (to get more back plate spin - depending on how the paint responds).

Outside of that, the DAMF5 pad, and D300 really like harder paints. After I've exhausted all my techniques with the foam, I'll move to microfiber pads, and see where that gets me. There was a time that I used Menzerna FG400 on Lake Country Cyan cutting pads with a forced rotation Flex 3401, and didn't get anywhere. Even switching to a microfiber pad gave me a negligible improvement. I switched to the Porter Cable, DAMF pad, D300, and destroyed all of the defects in four normal passes. That was the day I decided to sell the Flex, and the second or third time it didn't do what I needed it to do.

The car was a black 1999 Camaro Z28. It was a bear to correct.

[The Guz]

Re: Question when approaching challenging paints

Not sure. Google gives me conflicting results. There is a C in the plate under the hood with a bunch of numbers. There is no C next to the color code on the sticker on the door jamb. I color code cross checked with online vendors of touch up paints (i,e the sticker shows 143 with no C which is same code from online touch ups

Speed 5.
Priming the pad, and then adding 3 dime sized liquid
Moderate pressure always making sure the pad still moves.

Well that makes it easier as you don't have to worry about removing the ceramic clear. The C would be right next to the paint code just like in this photo.




With what you have give the burgundy cutting disc a try with M105 on speed 5 on the G110. M105 has a short working time so you don't want to over work it or it will turn to concrete on the paint. A wetting agent (spray bottle with water) to extend the working time.

I like having microfiber pads for those you never know what you need moment. D300 and microfiber cutting pads would be my next recommendation or even M100 over D300. D300 was designed for the microfiber cutting pads and will have little to no dust. M100 or M105 will dust with microfiber pads. But M100 on microfiber cutting pads is a sever defect killer.

You are probably more confused now lol. Go with my first recommendation and use that as your starting point.

The car was a black 1999 Camaro Z28. It was a bear to correct.

These are known to have very hard paint. Trust me I know. D300 on the microfiber cutting pads made short work of the defects compared to M105 and foam cutting pads on my 02 and my dad's 02.