WRX paint served with a side of eggs

[johnstc]

What Happened: The house where my car was parked earlier this summer was egged, naturally the side right above where my car was sitting

Status: While there was no impact damage from egg shells like in most egging cases, it's clear that over the summer the egg that dripped off the house onto my car seriously ate through the clear coat. The roof got the worst of it, while the side panels and hood have moderate etching as well.

I've come to terms that the roof needs to be resprayed professionally, but as for the sides I feel like the etching can be corrected with some serious compounding (maybe wetsanding since I don't have much to lose). I was thinking hitting the car with an aggressive detailing clay, M105/M205 with a heavy cut pad, a finishing polish, then application of wax/sealant.

Just wanted to get some opinions on how you guys would go about attempting such a process and what tools/products you would use.


Pictures (If you guys want more detailed ones I can provide them)
Roof:




Sides:





Hood/Close Up:



NOTE: With the paint in the condition it is, I have fully accepted the fact a total respray is most likely going to have to happen. However, I'd like to at least give the paint correction a shot since I don't have much to lose.

[MicrofiberMan]

Re: WRX paint served with a side of eggs

give it a shot what do u have to lose? why did u leave ur car parked somewhere the whole summer and why did the people who got egged just ignore it for so long?

[Top Gear]

Re: WRX paint served with a side of eggs

Wow, that's awful! Sorry to hear it.

For me, MF pads with M101 will work miracles, probably on all of it except for the spot that looks like bubbling rust (assuming that spot is rust and not just caked on rotten egg?). I'd start with a very luxurious washing with lots and lots of suds. Take your time with some Gold Class Shampoo, perhaps also mixed with Ultimate Wash and Wax. I'm not sure claying will do much more than wear your hands out, as these contaminants are bonded too well. If you're going to use foam pads and M105, it will take a lot longer with many more passes, so I'd at least look for an MF pad like Meg's Cutting and Xtra Cut pads, all on at least a Porter Cable machine.

I would only think about wet-sanding after this compounding, so that you're not going nuclear all over the paint but just on a choice few difficult spots left over. Do a full polish step with at least a couple of slow "jeweling" passes, maybe more, then wax with whatever you want, such as one of the many carnauba waxes from Meguiar's. Also look into some Ultimate Black for all the plastic and rubber trim, using spray wax to "seal" it temporarily. If you still have a few spots that look etched or noticeable from certain angles, I'd leave them alone for a few months as you regularly re-wax with spray wax and maybe re-polish again in 2 or 3 months, because such spots may very well fade away with regular maintenance, much like bird dropping spots can sometimes fade away.

Do all that with lots of love and I think it will come out looking better than ever