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Re: Best Meguiar's Wax?
Hopefully setting aside the wax wars which can erupt over "best", because we all have our favs, I think the best thing you can do is to focus on everything BUT wax. I mean, get the surface clean, then clay and compound it (compounding can get into wars, too, but I'll mention D300, Ultimate Compound, M100, less to more aggressive). Just that much, which is by far the most work of a correction, and the paint will already "pop". It will look waxed. The piece de resistance, though, is the polish stage. This is when you bake in the "finish", the polishing oils you will be protecting over the following months with wax. D302, Ultimate Polish, M205 (also less to more aggressive) are all excellent polishes, almost interchangeable in terms of the final finish, but there are subtle differences.
At this point, you just use the wax to protect all that work. I'll suggest any of the carnauba waxes, D301, Gold Class/M26, Deep Crystal, and others. Waxes have a final "cast" to them: D301 gives you that "blue black" look, while Gold Class/M26 yield a golden hue. Others will be more neutral. My black metallic looks great with either, but I prefer a fresh machine coat of D301 over anything else. After this, you use quick wash and wax products, like Ultimate Wash and Wax Anywhere (UWWA) and Gold Class Quik Was, to maintain that carnauba finish. If you didn't use a carnauba-based wax, and went instead for Ultimate, NXT or M21, etc, then use Ultimate QW or NXT QW along with UWWA. UWWA has some carnauba, but also works as a spray sealant, too.
Maybe you knew all that, Sean, so for the "extra something" you mention, I'll just say Detailer D301. On my black pearl-metallic, it gives that blue-black hue, but it darkens the paint and reduces gloss-haze dramatically, almost like seeing through polarized shades, or looking into deep space. No other wax I've seen gives that same super deep, dripping wet finish
Hopefully setting aside the wax wars which can erupt over "best", because we all have our favs, I think the best thing you can do is to focus on everything BUT wax. I mean, get the surface clean, then clay and compound it (compounding can get into wars, too, but I'll mention D300, Ultimate Compound, M100, less to more aggressive). Just that much, which is by far the most work of a correction, and the paint will already "pop". It will look waxed. The piece de resistance, though, is the polish stage. This is when you bake in the "finish", the polishing oils you will be protecting over the following months with wax. D302, Ultimate Polish, M205 (also less to more aggressive) are all excellent polishes, almost interchangeable in terms of the final finish, but there are subtle differences.
At this point, you just use the wax to protect all that work. I'll suggest any of the carnauba waxes, D301, Gold Class/M26, Deep Crystal, and others. Waxes have a final "cast" to them: D301 gives you that "blue black" look, while Gold Class/M26 yield a golden hue. Others will be more neutral. My black metallic looks great with either, but I prefer a fresh machine coat of D301 over anything else. After this, you use quick wash and wax products, like Ultimate Wash and Wax Anywhere (UWWA) and Gold Class Quik Was, to maintain that carnauba finish. If you didn't use a carnauba-based wax, and went instead for Ultimate, NXT or M21, etc, then use Ultimate QW or NXT QW along with UWWA. UWWA has some carnauba, but also works as a spray sealant, too.
Maybe you knew all that, Sean, so for the "extra something" you mention, I'll just say Detailer D301. On my black pearl-metallic, it gives that blue-black hue, but it darkens the paint and reduces gloss-haze dramatically, almost like seeing through polarized shades, or looking into deep space. No other wax I've seen gives that same super deep, dripping wet finish
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