Some Questions... HELP

[ThePolisher]

I'll try to keep it short and simple (Not happening lol). Please be patient, and please read it all. Don't skim. Although I have a pretty advanced understanding and a lot of knowledge about detailing, I have some noob questions that I was afraid to ask at first so here goes. I will highlight the questions themselves to make them easier to reference after you've read the life story I just typed lol: Won't putting a car cover on scratch the finish? I don't like touching the paint unless I have to, and whenever I need some kind of lubrication I like to use QD. I've noticed that a lot of cars accumulate think mold-like looking stuff along the edges of the jambs, especially around the trunk, and behind the fuel door. I think Megs sells a mold-release product, but what else can I use there? Once it's clean I guess I should wax it to prevent the build up and make cleaning easier the next time around, right? For those of you who are familiar with Ammo Hydrate and how Larry Kosilla uses it to dry his cars, I can use QD instead right? I figured the lubrication principal was the same. For those who have no clue what I'm talking about here's a link. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0hzJImmvNU I've used the cheap microfibers up until now, and I don't like them, and I've always wanted the good ones. The more I use them the more they aggravate me lol, and they're very ineffective after the first use.What microfiber towels do you guys recommend? Also, I discovered the nanoskin pads a while ago, and I always wondered, since your using so much extra force compared to claying by hand, can you scratch the living daylights out of the surface with it, or is it OK? I started using Chemical Guys Hex-logic pads on my Griot's Garage DA. I was using the Harbor Freight ones at first, and they deteriorate in no time with light pressure at low speed. I like the new pads, but I don't have them all, and I ran into a problem with one. I've used them a few times, but I've only had a problem with one. IDK if it was defective but, like the cheaper pads, it disintegrated, but much slower, and much less, I assumed I was making a mistake by putting too much pressure (I was a noob then lol. I haven't polished that much since then since my other jobs have mostly been interior, wash n' wax, and lights since then.), so I backed off, and that stopped almost completely. Anyways, the damage had been done, and my speed setting was 4 with the heavy polishing pad, and the back of the pad was separating, and a big chunk of foam was stuck to the Velcro, I reached for the off switch, and by the time it stopped, half of it came off, so I switched pads. This raised a lot of questions. Did I put too much pressure (I think it was moderate to heavy)? Is it normal for tiny bits of foam to fly off when polishing with a new pad (deteriorating)? Was it defective? Are the pads just bad compared to other brands? Can I reuse pads after paint transfer occurs? How much pressure is good for compounding and polishing? What pads do you guys like to use? How many pads of the same kind should I use for the average mid-size sedan? The last 2 questions are about waxing. If I'm trying to save product, but I want to make sure I have enough protection, how much wax is too much? If I have the type of wax that dries to a haze, what should it look like? Also, I just got Megs Paint Protect 365 which doesn't dry to a haze, and there's some dark red build up on the bottom. When I shake the bottle it doesn't come off, and I'm guessing that's an important ingredient lol. I tried to exchange it, but all the ones at the store were like that. What should I do to get the gunk off the bottom and mix it? I know, it's a ton of questions, but please take the time to answer them. To say I would REALLY appreciate it would be an understatement especially if I don't get flamed lmao.

[Top Gear]

Re: Some Questions... HELP

Wow, what an epic run-on paragraph. Welcome to MOL

- Yes, car covers often create as many problems as they solve, IMO.
- Ultimate Wash & Wax Anywhere (UWWA) will be better than QD for cleaning.
- Meg's Supreme Shine MF "Towels" are the best, I've discovered.
- I've only used lubricated clay for claying and it's pretty hard to do damage.
- Foam pads can get torn up too easily. I prefer microfiber pads, or DAMF.
- Very little wax/sealant is needed, like a teardrop per arm's length.
- I haven't used PP365, but I wouldn't worry about any film in the bottle.

[ThePolisher]

Re: Some Questions... HELP

Thanks for the reply and the welcome . That answers most of the questions. I guess my 1 million pad questions about what I did wrong is kinda hard to answer if you weren't the one holding the machine.

[ThePolisher]

Re: Some Questions... HELP

any help and suggestions from anybody is greatly appreciated. The more the merrier

[ThePolisher]

Re: Some Questions... HELP

Bump. Another question that just came to mind (and this might sound stupid), If I have a microfiber towel that i use for wheels for example, could write wheels with a sharpie on a corner of the cloth? I always feared this would damage the cloth or do something to the paint if that part comes into contact with it. Maybe it could even come off in the washing machine and stain the other cloths. Also, is it fine to use a cloth that is clean and free of grease but has some stains in it?

[ThePolisher]

Re: Some Questions... HELP

And of course some more questions lol. Have you guys had any problems applying Meguiars Headlight protectant (the one in the black bottle)? I've had streaking problems with it and I don't let it sit since the instructions say to wipe it right off. I use that cuz i figured it was formulated specifically for headlights but would a sealant like Paint Protect 365 work better? I also use plastX, but I see some pros use M105+205. I haven't tried it, but what is the reason for that? It works better? It keeps things simpler because you don't need to buy a million products? Thanks.

[The Guz]

Re: Some Questions... HELP

I'm going to dry and decipher what you wrote.

If your car sits outside don't bother with a car cover. It will do more harm than good. If you car is a garage queen then one would be ok as long as you find a real good one.

From what I gather reading your first post is that you have mold in those areas? Are those painted areas, the rubber seals? APC (D101), D114 Rinseless Wash would work. Then keep those areas clean as you routinely wash the car.

Remember that a QD should only be used to remove light dust. A rinseless or waterless wash would be better to remove heavier dust, dirt etc...

In regards to your question to a drying aid, many on here use D156 or ultimate quik wax as a drying aid. You get protection as you dry. Some have used Ultimate Quik Detailer or M135 in the same regard. The difference is that D156 or UQW will leave longer lasting protection.

For microfibers, it's hard to beat the Meguiar's Supreme Shine's.

Claying or the clay alternatives can mar the paint. The hardness of the paint comes into play along with how much pressure and how much lubrication one is using. Also the aggressiveness of the clay.

I'm not sure about the CG pads but foam pads can go bad if they are loaded with too much product. The heat will destroy them. Be sure to clean them every couple panels and to also switch them out as you go.

When applying a wax, you want to apply thin. Thin is in. Carnauba's will haze as will the sealants NXT and M21. Ultimate Wax and PP365 do not haze like a traditional wax. They can be removed after 3-5 mins. 1 coat is good enough and a second coat would be just to ensure even coverage. If you like to wax more often, consider a spray wax. It's hard to give an exact number of when it's time to rewax. Carnauba's typically last between 1-3 months and sealants about 4-6 months. This varies by the surrounding environment.

I can't answer your question about 365. But you can contact customer service. They will take care of you.

Bump. Another question that just came to mind (and this might sound stupid), If I have a microfiber towel that i use for wheels for example, could write wheels with a sharpie on a corner of the cloth? I always feared this would damage the cloth or do something to the paint if that part comes into contact with it. Maybe it could even come off in the washing machine and stain the other cloths. Also, is it fine to use a cloth that is clean and free of grease but has some stains in it?

My rule of thumb is that as my microfibers begin to degrade, then they will never touch paint again. They will be relegated to other duties such as wheels, door jambs, engine bay, tires for when I rinseless wash. Stains won't hinder the performance of the towel. But like everything else, they degrade.

I have my towels separated and organized by what touches what area of any car. Also in some cases I have different colors to distinguish them.

And of course some more questions lol. Have you guys had any problems applying Meguiars Headlight protectant (the one in the black bottle)? I've had streaking problems with it and I don't let it sit since the instructions say to wipe it right off. I use that cuz i figured it was formulated specifically for headlights but would a sealant like Paint Protect 365 work better? I also use plastX, but I see some pros use M105+205. I haven't tried it, but what is the reason for that? It works better? It keeps things simpler because you don't need to buy a million products? Thanks.

Any sealant can be used on the lights. These sealants could be PP365, Ultimate Wax, M21, NXT. It could be that you are using too much product when using the headlight protectant. If it is still streaky, remember that like removes like.

M105 is more aggressive than plastx. M205 after M105 refines the finish. Both product lines are directed to different areas of the market. Plastx for the consumer and M105/M205 for the professional/enthusiast.

[Don]

Re: Some Questions... HELP

To add to what the Guz said, less is ALWAYS best. You can always add more product to the pad, but taking product out of a pad isn't so easy, you'd be better off switching to a clean pad, which IMO if done too often is a waste of a pad. After a while you will come to know how much product to apply to the pad to accomplish what you intend to do. Like with my 2 favorite LSPs, Ultimate Liquid Wax and Collinite 845, it takes DROPS, literally to cover a panel or two, so I usually put about 4 pea-sized drops on the pad, then apply it to the car ... I can usually cover a fender and a door this way.

The same with your pads disintegrating, try a lower speed for a while and make sure you're not putting so much pressure on the pads that it doesn't spin anymore. High speed, heavy pressure and being overloaded with product is what kills pads.

[ThePolisher]

Re: Some Questions... HELP

Wow thanks guys. I will edit my post in case anyone else wants to contribute. I should've specified that the mold and bonded contaminants are on the painted surfaces, but it's not painted like the rest of the car. It's one of those parts that receives a real light coat from the factory.

[ThePolisher]

Re: Some Questions... HELP

And of course endless questions. Many people claim that M105 is a PITA and it's not user friendly, but the people who take the time to fully prime their pads claim that it makes a world of a difference. Is it really that tough? I might've been spoiled with using UC a lot lol. Also, M105 is an all-around product from what i understand. The only polisher that I like to use and currently have in my possession is the 6 inch Griot's Garage DA. I think it's an excellent machine, but what should I use with that? Stick to UC? M105? Switch to the DAMF system? Thanks. I've only had experience with UC. I'll look into microfiber pads if my pads continue to deteriorate noticeably after I change my technique or if I decide to switch to DAMF. I've also read that the new Meguiar's foam pads are more durable than before. Would you guys say that's worth looking into?

[Murr1525]

Re: Some Questions... HELP

And of course endless questions. Many people claim that M105 is a PITA and it's not user friendly, but the people who take the time to fully prime their pads claim that it makes a world of a difference. Is it really that tough? I might've been spoiled with using UC a lot lol. Also, M105 is an all-around product from what i understand. The only polisher that I like to use and currently have in my possession is the 6 inch Griot's Garage DA. I think it's an excellent machine, but what should I use with that? Stick to UC? M105? Switch to the DAMF system? Thanks. I've only had experience with UC. I'll look into microfiber pads if my pads continue to deteriorate noticeably after I change my technique or if I decide to switch to DAMF. I've also read that the new Meguiar's foam pads are more durable than before. Would you guys say that's worth looking into?

#105 is just designed for fresher paints with more oils still in them. So dry paint, hot weather, whatever, can make it dry out faster.

You could use UC or #105 by hand or DA.

The DAMF system is a bit different of a variable. It will also work fine with either product, just changes the defect removal ability, maybe working time of the products.

[The Guz]

Re: Some Questions... HELP

M105 does indeed have a slight learning curve to it. The benefit to it is that it does it's work fast. The longer you work it, the more dust one gets along with it drying on the paint. It's almost like concrete when it dries. Is there are reason you need M105 over UC? Is UC doing the job for you? You should not need to compound more than once as long as you maintain the finish of the car. The other reason is if you are doing paint corrections on the side.

Microfiber pads also deteriorate. With proper care both foam and microfiber pads will last you awhile. The microfiber pads are more aggressive and work great for those heavier defects that foam can't get. The new foam discs are great. The cutting pad cuts just as well as a microfiber cutting disc but finishes better. If you get the opportunity to try the new foam pads get them. The thinner pads translate the tools power better. I would give them a shot. I actually would recommend having both foam and microfiber. You never really know what you need.

[ThePolisher]

Re: Some Questions... HELP

Will the dust abrade the paint when I wipe it off if it's excessive vs little to no dust or does the dust just make a mess? UC does a fantastic job, and I normally get my results with a cutting pad after the first section pass (I normally cross hatch 3 times for every section pass.), but seeing how many pros praise the 105/205 combo, I wondered why. I know that UC/UP are similar, but supposedly more user friendly when compared with 105/205 respectively. I have to work in the sun at all times which ***** because the sun beats you up, and these compounds and stuff work best at a certain surface temperature, and you shouldn't do it in direct sunlight. I'm kinda doing the opposite of what the directions say in the south Florida sun lol . I know that microfiber pads are a little more on the aggressive side which is why I wasn't eager to get those first. Most people here drive cars that are either a late model meaning the clear coats are thin as can be, or they drive messed up beaters with clear coat failure, so when I bought the pads I thought microfiber might be too aggressive for my needs. I figured I'd invest in those at a later time. Like I said I work in the sun so M105 is NOT for me I guess until I can work in the ideal place. Like you said you never know what you need, which is why when people ask me how much I will charge to detail their car I can never just say $200 for sedans and 300 for mini vans or something like that. Everybody wants to spend a certain amount, everybody isn't as picky, everybody's paint has a different hardness or level of damage, and I never quote over the phone. Thanks soooo much for the responses, you guys have helped a lot, and even though a lot of the things you told me, I knew, you confirmed it for me (more confidence yay), and you answered my million noobish questions lol. I called customer service about my paint protect dilemma, and I figured I'd post this here for anybody who happens to stumble across this thread. The build up on the bottom of the bottle is common, and it will not affect the performance of the product so go ahead and use it. Thanks again! Hopefully that first sentence is my last question lol.

[Don]

Re: Some Questions... HELP

Will the dust abrade the paint when I wipe it off if it's excessive vs little to no dust or does the dust just make a mess?

I'll try to answer this one, are you asking 'Will the dust leave fine scratches in the paint while you're trying to remove it?' My answer is why risk it? Personally if it was light dust here and there, I would use a quick detail spray to help lubricate the surface and prevent the dust from scratching the freshly compounded paint, but if the dust was heavy and everywhere, I would err on the side of caution and rewash the car.

Now if you plan on using UP or M205 after compounding, then any marks made by carefully wiping the dust off with a QD will be taken care of by the polish.

[ThePolisher]

Re: Some Questions... HELP

Good idea can't believe I didn't think of that. Need some sleep haha. Thanks for the response and what do ya know another question popped up in my head lol. If a set of lights has some swirls I'd like to remove and I'm doing a paint correction anyways is it fine for me to go over the lights and the paint at the same time with polish and a polishing pad or will it contaminate the pad? Should I use separate pads so that the plastic particles I'm polishing off don't put fine scratches on the paint when I'm done going over the light?