help needed!

[h_bomm]

I guess "safe bet" is as good a way to put it as any. 105 and 205 are from the Mirror Glaze with 105 being the more aggressive of the 2. UC is derived from 105 and UP is derived from 205. UC and UP are "consumer" level products that doesn't mean they are inferior products, but they are easier to work with for your average joe. I use UC and UP mostly because they ARE easy to use and also they are readily available at your Targets and Wal Marts and so on. At the same time you don't HAVE to pair them off like it may seem when they are usually mentioned. There is nothing wrong using UC as your compound and finishing with 205 for example. I hope I didn't confuse you too much!

[BlackRam]

Re: help needed!

It actually makes complete sense. People seem to team them up so the oils from 205 and up can be added back to the paint for what 105 and uc removed.

[Christopher.Brown]

Re: help needed!

i dont see any CC damage from those pics... Id say use UC [with a yellow cutting pad]..... make a few slow, 50% overlapping, cross-hatching passes with the machine on speed 5-6 [one inch per second] with medium to heavy pressure and see the difference.... it should be dramatic.... then i would follow it up with UP on a finishing pad [black] and turn the machine down to 2-3 and lighten up the pressure.

i think youll like the results

let us know the progress please

[valferca]

Re: help needed!

i dont see any CC damage from those pics... Id say use UC [with a yellow cutting pad]..... make a few slow, 50% overlapping, cross-hatching passes with the machine on speed 5-6 [one inch per second] with medium to heavy pressure and see the difference.... it should be dramatic.... then i would follow it up with UP on a finishing pad [black] and turn the machine down to 2-3 and lighten up the pressure.

i think youll like the results

let us know the progress please

Thanks guys for all the help!
I will go with the ultimate compound and ultimate polish. Ill be working on the car next weekend, ill keep you guys updated.
Hopefully the paint on next week pics will look so much better

Christopher do you recommend going with the yellow and black pad instead of using the red for the uc and the yellow for the up?

[Christopher.Brown]

Re: help needed!

well for the finish step i would, WITHOUT A DOUBT, use the black finishing pad on speed 2 on the G110v2..

Your defects ** APPEAR** [from the bove pics} severe enough to warrant the red cutting pad, which is meguiar's most aggressive....

If you have the means, id start with the yellow pad.. and if thats not cutting it, move to the red pad for added cutting power..


as a general rule you want to use the product/methodology that is least invasive and more gentle while getting the most cutting effenciency for your time.. You can always ramp up in aggressiveness after trying something.. you dont want to start more aggressive than necessary and remove any more clear coat than is necessary to level the paint, while removing scratches

[valferca]

Re: help needed!

Yes..I agree...it makes sense to go with the least abrassive product first. I'll apply the UC with the yellow pad and the UP with the black pad then.
Thanks for all the help. Ill keep you guys updated

[h_bomm]

Re: help needed!

Are you using the DA Power System on a drill or do you have a full size G110v2? I forgot what you said you had

[valferca]

Re: help needed!

I dont have either of them. I have a regular 7" orbital. But I'll be getting the DA Power System for the drill tomorrow, at least for now to see how it goes.

[Jarhead0754]

I'de say just go ahead and skip the da power system and get the g110v2. Sure it's a little more expensive but definitely worth it. Plus the power system is really more for a smaller work area. I think everybody will prob agree to get the g110v2, it's just gonna give u more control.

[Christopher.Brown]

Re: help needed!

yea the G110v2 will definitely yield better results for you between the two and if youre only using it on personal cars it will last a long time

[valferca]

Re: help needed!

Perfect guys! I'll buy the g110v2 tomorrow. And work on the car this saturday. Hopefully i can repair the damage

Thanks for all the information

[valferca]

Re: help needed!

Hey guys just got my g110 today
One question before i work on the car this weekend.. should i clay the paint before applying the UC & UP?. The paint has never been clayed before. Will the meguiars clay kit include everything I need? Another question:
Can i do all this (wash,clay, UC, UP, & wax) the same day? Is it safe for the paint?
And last but no least which wax do you recommend? Too many to choose from

[Ghawk]

Re: help needed!

Yes, clay the paint, especially if it has not been clayed since purchase. Otherwise you will gum up your pads with dirt and grime from the unclean and unstripped paint. The Meguiar's clay kit will include everything you need from clay to spray to microfiber towel.
And yes you can in theory do everything in one day without harm. However, if this is your first time polishing and buffing, this might take a day PLUS! It also is dependent on the condition of your paint and how hard the clear coat is to cut through.

And for the wax that is a totally up to you choice. Here's my quick reviews of the Meg's waxes and a couple other little waxes I like and have experience with:

Meg's Gold Class (liquid): Heavy on polishing oils and fillers, it leaves an incredibly deep and dark shine up there with some of the best beauty waxes. Longevity is not much, but it is fairly easy to apply and remove. I like it as a show/trade-in wax.

Meg's Ultimate Wax (liquid): A highly reflective and glossy synthetic sealant that outlasts just about everything. It goes on thin and make sure you put it on thin or else it will streak like crazy. Overall champ for cars not able to be waxed every few weeks, looks great on light colors accenting the pearl in paint quite well.

Meg's NXT 2.0 (Liquid) I don't have a ton of experience with this one but the few times I have used it I have been impressed at how easy it is to apply and remove adds a nice gloss and lasts somewhere in between the two previously mentioned waxes. Very good overall wax, a favorite amount a lot of people.

Now for some other recommendations I have, I have a obsessive collection of waxes so this is sorta my jam.

Collinite 845: This stuff is legendary for a reason! It goes on super thin, I suggest applying with a buffer for best results and you will use about 1/4 to 1/3 an ounce for a whole car. Not a great deal of show car shine, but greatly accents many a daily drivers just fine providing a few months of properly maintained protection. I recommend this over the 915 wax they offer because it is MUCH easier to apply and remove and use in general. 915 is a OUTSTANDING wax, but not for the light hearted.

Detailer's Pro Poli-Seal: I actually came by this sealant by accident, but it has become a staple for me! Super thin and easy speeding. Leaves a glassy finish, and the slickness it leaves on the paint makes you want to just keep feeling the car, its crazy. Lasts upwards of 4 months from my experience.

BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY: Use what you like and what works for you. I'm just throwing out a few things I know, but everyone has their own preferences and opinions. Just use what YOU love!

Hope I helped and answered everything!
Roll Tide (This Sugar Bowl is driving me crazy)
Griffith Hawk

[Daniel Kinder]

Re: help needed!

Hey guys just got my g110 today
One question before i work on the car this weekend.. should i clay the paint before applying the UC & UP?. The paint has never been clayed before. Will the meguiars clay kit include everything I need? Another question:
Can i do all this (wash,clay, UC, UP, & wax) the same day? Is it safe for the paint?
And last but no least which wax do you recommend? Too many to choose from

watch this one on claying properly if you've not seen it already.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfEfLGL59GI

Some great info here to help you out!
How to apply product to the face of your foam buffing pads

How to apply product to the face of your foam buffing pads

Below is how to apply fresh product to the face of you foam buffing pad when first starting out and your pads are dry. After you break you buffing pad in by working this initial amount of product over a section of paint, you can cut down on the amount of product you're using as the pad will be less likely to absorb as much product as it will become damp with product.





Remember don't turn the polisher on until the face of the foam pad is in contact with surface of your car's paint.

Quickly spread the product out of the surface you're going to work then slow your arm speed down and begin to use overlapping motions to work the product.

After working an application of product, wipe the leftover residue from the worked area and inspect, if the results look good move onto a new section overlapping a little into the previous section. Continue this procedure until you have finished a panel or the entire vehicle.

Remember to clean you pad on the fly and and to do this often. This insures the best experience while machine cleaning and polishing as excess product build-up on a foam buffing pad can cause gumming up.


See the below thread for related information...

Tips & Techniques for using the G110, G100, G220 and the PC Dual Action Polisher
Cleaning Your Pad On The Fly
How many passes to break the diminishing abrasives in M80 down?
What it means to remove a scratch out of anything...
PC + 83 not "Cutting" it! (The Limits of Dual Action Polisher)
How to tape-off a car
Please explain Pros/Cons between Rotary and Orbital Buffers
The Dual Action Counterweight 'Controversy'
Cutting Pads with the PC - Is this a good idea?
G100/PC - Should it be spinning all the time?
The words Clean and Cleaning as defined by Meguiar's terminology
Can You Use the PC to Polish-out #2000 Grit Sanding Marks?
Which products need to dry before removing?


Or if your the creative type like Joe at Superior Shine you can freestyle when placing fresh product onto the face of your foam pad.

[The Guz]

Re: help needed!

One other thing is to keep your pads clean. I clean mine after working every panel using a pad conditioning brush. Second link provided ^^^. As far as waxes go that depends on how long you want your wax to last. Sealants last longer and ultimate wax is the current wax leading that category. NXT 2.0/M21 is just as good. With proper maintenance you could expect somewhere in between 4-6 months with a sealant. With a carnauba like gold class or M26 you can expect around 2-3 months with proper maintenance. By proper maintenance I mean using ultimate quik wax and ultimate qiuk detailer in between washes.

You could experiment by using a sealant topped with a carnauba (ie Ultimate wax + gold class, NXT + gold class). M26 is the carnauba for the professional line and M21 is the professional version of NXT 2.0 and M21+M26 is a popular combo.

Michael Philips says it best that working with products all under the same brand translates into a synergistic system.