Newbie - Another Wax Question :)

[Stephan]

Re: Newbie - Another Wax Question

BlackRam
I am in the same boat as you. I would think that method would "lessen" the chance of swirls. Also, what about applying a coat of Meg's Cleaner wax and then carnauba. Wouldn't that pull contaminants from the paint?

Cleaner wax will likely remove any wax or sealant already present on the car, that's not what you're looking to do.

[James1114]

Re: Newbie - Another Wax Question

Stephan,

So then is it ok to do a wash and wax (using Gold Class for now) on a regular basis (say every 6-8 weeks) or should I be doing a polish/wax every time? That's why I asked about the cleaner wax...figured it would protect against swirls.

Also, if I wanted to switch to synthetic (ultimate), do I need to remove the carnauba? In theory, the carnauba should be gone eventually.

[BlackRam]

Re: Newbie - Another Wax Question

I have been washing the truck every weekend. Even this weekend when it was tetering on freezing. I did just buy some Detailers Rinseless Wash and Gloss (sorry megs). Gonna do that with some combo of either still the 2 bucket method or do the garry dean method during the winter. So yeah dirt doesnt sit on the paint more than 7 days.

[Stephan]

Re: Newbie - Another Wax Question

I have been washing the truck every weekend. Even this weekend when it was tetering on freezing. I did just buy some Detailers Rinseless Wash and Gloss (sorry megs). Gonna do that with some combo of either still the 2 bucket method or do the garry dean method during the winter. So yeah dirt doesnt sit on the paint more than 7 days.

Sounds good. Depending on the environment, you may need to apply some of your M21 every month or so if you're not using any quik or spray wax after washes. Don't know if your rinseless has wax in it.

[jankerson]

Re: Newbie - Another Wax Question

Jankerson-
A little confused. If i use GC full wash 2 bucket method, etc, then dry it with a synthetic chamois and a leaf blower, am I safe to apply a new coat of wax onto the existing coat of wax that is there? Reason I would do that is I am a daily driver yet I want to keep the black shine and water beading. Note when i purchased the truck, I did a full claying before apply synthetic m21? (i didnt know how to do any compounding etc at that time).

You don't need to wax every time you wash, you could and it would be better to use Ultimate Quick Wax for maintenance after washing.

However if you have a DA polisher you could get some M20, it's a cleaner/sealant and go over it with that to clean it up. Then wait 24 hours and apply M21 over that.

[Stephan]

Re: Newbie - Another Wax Question

Stephan,

So then is it ok to do a wash and wax (using Gold Class for now) on a regular basis (say every 6-8 weeks) or should I be doing a polish/wax every time? That's why I asked about the cleaner wax...figured it would protect against swirls.

Also, if I wanted to switch to synthetic (ultimate), do I need to remove the carnauba? In theory, the carnauba should be gone eventually.

6 or 8 weeks with carnauba might be ok if you garage the car, with synthetic that should be good. You only need to polish before waxing for correcting paint and/or adding gloss prior to waxing. Myself, I do a light polish before full wax job to remove scratches made from washing in between waxing. Every time you touch your car with a towel, a finger or anything else it does something to the finish. But not washing your car is worse, and so it goes.

In between full wax or sealant I use something like Ult Quik Wax to bolster protection.

As for cleaner wax, that's more of an all in one (AIO) product instead of separate polish and wax. Some "cleaner waxes" have chemicals that "clean" the paint like a DIY car wash does which typically strips off any wax on there.

If you move to syn, you shouldn't need to remove carnauba, the syn sealant will likely obliterate it.

[Murr1525]

Re: Newbie - Another Wax Question

I tend to only use the liquid or paste waxes after a cleaner, cleaner polish, of that kind of thing. I'll just go with the spray wax, esp UQW after just a wash.

[Top Gear]

Re: Newbie - Another Wax Question

Sorry if I was vague about corrections, as well as wax-only spiderwebs. The problem is that once you get addicted to this stuff, it is very easy to overdo it. I sure did on a previous car!

See, when you wax by hand without proper prep work (claying, in particular) you're more likely to "swirl", and when you mitt-wash too often you're more likely to wash your wax right off. So, these two good ideas become bad ideas done this way over time. If you wind up washing at least once a week and re-waxing every few weeks, by the end of a few months of that your paint will not look any better than when you started. In fact, it will feel like sandpaper and you'll have holograms, spiderwebs, and layers of swirls in general. Clean or not, the effect is that it's never impressive enough, especially black.

The solution is to stop the above and do a full multi-step correction (wash, clay, DA compound, DA polish, DA wax) once or twice a year. There is a lot of detail on the main website, so watch the videos for more. After that is done, the car should be as perfect as you can make it, so you then use a duster, quik detailer and quik wax (matching your DA wax, ie. Ultimate, Gold Class, etc) in order to extend and protect the correction work you spend so many hours getting right. If it's a bit too dusty for the california duster, you do a rinse only and blow or flood dry (again, search the forum for more on those). You therefore should only wash the car outright and blow or flood dry when it is so dirty you can't do any of the above, or roughly once a month based on my experience (you'll get caught in the rain, or you'll have tree sap build-up, or whatever). Of course, you should avoid letting it get dirty if at all possible

So, the less you are touching the paint, the less you will generate the "love touch" spiderwebs and holograms from being overzealous. Yet, by either rinsing and blow/flood drying, and/or spraying on the magic quik products and using microfiber towels, you are very unlikely to add such love touches, so you can channel your zeal into that, instead of washing and waxing so much the old way. Trust me, it works, and it will greatly reduce your workload.

Hope that helps, guys

[ffboy]

Re: Newbie - Another Wax Question

Moderation is the key.. right... moderation? Doesn't that sound so sensible? Well, it's a lot easier said than done... Once we see the results from waxing, we tend to want more of everything... Shine, water beading, protection, extreme durability... We end up doing too much and instilling those micro-swirls and wax build-up all over the paint, giving it that faint haze and not that super clear, deep wet shine..

[Top Gear]

Re: Newbie - Another Wax Question

Bazactly! Once I see the results from a good "update" with Gold Class Detailer and Quik Wax, I can do that all I want as often as I want and it won't hurt anything. Essentially a fresh wax job in 10 minutes. This is why it doesn't matter how long a particular liquid/paste wax lasts. It will be replaced from regular detailing before that point. Yet, GCQW gives me that same clear, mirror-like, wet, perfect (for a daily driver) appearance that turns heads all over town, just like the DA version of liquid wax. Changed my life!

[BlackRam]

Re: Newbie - Another Wax Question

Top Gear-
I have been reading this forum as well as the ones over at AutoGeek as well as watching the videos trying to soak up as much info as possible. I understand what you are saying with the less you touch the paint the better. But not to beat a dead horse, but driving on a highway everyday, working in trucking (get overspray), the rain and now, and it being a black truck, it barely stays clean enough for me to enjoy it. What is the happy medium to enjoy the shine look but also not to instill swirls and scratches?

[ffboy]

Re: Newbie - Another Wax Question

Conditions and environment usually dictates how frequent one has to wash, wax or detail a car. Since you're in a situation where your truck gets beat up with various contaminants and miscellaneous dirt, you may have no choice but to wash more frequently. You can still wash without instilling too much swirls by being real careful and spending a lot more time when washing, or combine a waterless wash and wax product, more frequent application of quick detailers/quick wax. It will make your truck slicker longer, minimizing chances of contaminants/dirt from sticking, and consequently, less time and effort when washing and drying your truck. Quantity time is a pre-requisite to Quality work.

If instilling those "beloved" swirls becomes unavoidable and if you have no time to do any correction, I would just glaze/pure polish it to conceal them (M07, DC Polish) then apply either gold class carnauba plus or ultimate paste wax. OK, you may just concealed the swirls, but your finish will still look good and no one will really know. All they'll see is a nice, deep shiny truck.

Hope you take my opinion into consideration. Yes, black is a nice color, but it's a part time job.

[BlackRam]

Re: Newbie - Another Wax Question

Thanks FF

[Top Gear]

Re: Newbie - Another Wax Question

I agree with ffboy. I'm not sure what you mean by "overspray", BlackRam, but it sounds like diesel fumes and soot? Otherwise, I know how dirty snow and slush can be. Even a slightly wet road will trash a clean car. I generally will not drive in the rain unless I just have to (those are the times I usually wind up doing a full wash and undercarriage touch up). When I spent a couple of hard winters up North (with a differerent car) I went to a spray wash rather frequently, which aside from the expense might be your best bet. The brushes there are not wise, so do not use them, but the wand sprayers and soaps are fine for rinsing and decontaminating without "touching". You can then follow up with QD/QW. That's life in the North. Here in the South, it's the biblical humidity and pounding Sun Oh well.

[ffboy]

Re: Newbie - Another Wax Question

Try using the flood-rinse technique when drying your truck. It allows the water to sheet away, minimizing water spots and the need to go over your paint to fully dry it out. Or better yet, dry your car 80-90%, then spray wax the entire car. You'll end up drying and applying a protective layer of wax.