Does Meguiar's still has pure polish oil product for consumer?

[BillyJack]

Re: Does Meguiar's still has pure polish oil product for consumer?

hi. Can I use Deep Crystal polish for single stage paint (paint without clearcoat)? Does it remove any paint? Same question about Deep Crystal Carnauba wax.
Thnx

Deep Crystal Polish, much like #7 Show Car Glaze in the Mirror Glaze line, is a pure polish (in Meguiar's terms) with a high oil content, but without any abrasive content. Your applicator probably provides more cleaning action than the chemical itself. If you use it on SS paint, you'll likely have some color transfer on your applicator, but you won't be removing any measurable amount of paint. Like #7, it's an excellent choice for older single-stage paints. DC wax also does not remove any of the finish.

Bill

[gclark26]

Re: Does Meguiar's still has pure polish oil product for consumer?

#7 is a real pain to remove. Does removing DC require the same amount of effort ?

[kuko]

Re: Does Meguiar's still has pure polish oil product for consumer?

Deep Crystal Polish, much like #7 Show Car Glaze in the Mirror Glaze line, is a pure polish (in Meguiar's terms) with a high oil content, but without any abrasive content. Your applicator probably provides more cleaning action than the chemical itself. If you use it on SS paint, you'll likely have some color transfer on your applicator, but you won't be removing any measurable amount of paint. Like #7, it's an excellent choice for older single-stage paints. DC wax also does not remove any of the finish.

Bill

Thank you Bill for advice

[BillyJack]

Re: Does Meguiar's still has pure polish oil product for consumer?

Please note that the term single-stage only indicates that the paint has not been topped with a clearcoat, not a particular chemical formula. The older-tech products such as M07 and Deep Crystal are most effective on the lacquers and enamels used through the 80's, at least those for the US market. The '87 El Camino in my avatar still has the original lacquer paint. Every year I give it some serious hand rubs with M07, including overnight soaks, followed by machine polishing with M03 or M80. The high oil content of M07 "moisturizes" the paint, making it much more workable when polishing. Those products will not be nearly as effective on the more modern urethane type paints, whether clearcoated or not. In those cases, while the M07/DC polishes do still make a difference, you may be better served with one of the newer products like M205 or Ultimate Polish.

Bill

[ffboy]

Re: Does Meguiar's still has pure polish oil product for consumer?

#7 is a real pain to remove. Does removing DC require the same amount of effort ?

Deep Crystal should be easier to remove, being a consumer level product. But as with M07, it is to be removed while wet. So even if DC is easier to use, you have to remove it while it's wet to minimize any problems should they arise. M07 is a pain to use and requires a different technique when removing, but results a very much worth it.

[BillyJack]

Re: Does Meguiar's still has pure polish oil product for consumer?

Here's a tutorial on M07 that's from about 10 years ago, penned by another Mike who worked for Meguiar's at the time.

"As someone else pointed out, #7 is a high oil content product. In fact, it's mostly oil. I could tell you more about it, I have over 7 pages on just this product alone in my forthcoming book, How to Polish Paint. it's really quite a unique product.

For the last 15 years I have seen a lot people comment as to how hard the product is to get off.

Usually, (and I'm not saying this is what your did), the person makes a couple of mistakes.

#7 is a non-drying oil.

One of the many things it can be used for is to make paint look wet, thus the name Show Car Glaze.

The reason it can do this is because it is a non-drying oil. Think about it, when you get a brand new paint job, or if you spray some rattle can paint

(continued)

[BillyJack]

Re: Does Meguiar's still has pure polish oil product for consumer?

It's hard to get the "Wet Look" with something they dries, especially if it turns white/opaque.

You cannot make something "more clear" with something that is "opaque".

#26 Yellow Wax, (which is a polymer/synthetic for the most part), dries clear, it does not turn white. It turns the surface very dark and deep however.

So the mistake most people make when using the #7 is this.

1. They apply it to thick - this makes it extremely hard to remove
2. They try to remove it like a wax.

Two tips.

First Tip - Apply #7 with a thin coat

Anybody's product when applied thick is hard to remove, just read the Zaino threads. Same thing applies to most of the Meguiar's waxes. A thick coat does nothing but waste product anyway, think about it. you wipe the excess off, i.e. the stuff sitting on top.

The idea is to "Push" the product into the pores of the paint, allow it to cure or dry, (if it's a drying product) then wipe off the material remaining on the surface. Sure some product remains on the surface, and there are a lot of opinions concerning "Layering", but suffice to say, there is a point of "Diminishing Returns".

If it were true you could create a "film-build" of product, that would mean that after enough coats, you would no longer be applying a coat of product onto paint, but in fact would be applying a coat of product onto a "film-build of product", (In other words, your layers of wax/polish/protectant/polymer/sealant/synthetic, or whatever word/term you want to use to describe your protective coating.

Kind of like trying to re-create a "Clear Coat". Last time I checked, nobody's product is clear, at least not like the clear resin a clear coat of paint is made from, (clear resin is often slightly amber in color)

So I don't know if I subscribe to the "Layering" theory. I am experimenting however, with multiple coats after coat of product on my black demo panel here in my office, so far, no "visible film-build". I do believe that two thin coats are better than one, and three coats wont' hurt. After that, I don't know. I would at least let some time go by.

So apply #7 thin. Use a soft foam applicator pad.

Second Tip - Removing #7 requires a special technique, not the same kind of technique you remove a wax with.

Most people remove their wax like this. Start in one area, begin wiping until all of the wax is removed in that area and then move on to virgin territory.

This will not work for #7. The "Act" of removing #7, tends to "Re-liquefy" the product, basically creating the smearing around effect that you experience when you apply it.

Instead, "Break" or "Disrupt" the "Continuous" layer of film-build and then move on to a virgin area and "Break this film-build up.

You see, #7 doesn't actually dry, but it will "Skin", somewhat like homemade pudding.

This "Skin" is easier to break up and remove then the more liquid film is.

By breaking up the continuous film-build and then moving on, you are exposing a fresh layer of the film to the air where it will skin. The next time you come around, it will be easier to break up and remove.

So the idea is to apply a thin coat to the entire car.

Then, Go around the car two to three times, removing a little bit at a time.

A big soft, high quality, 100% cotton, terry cloth towel works best for the first two passes, and then switch over to a Microfiber polishing cloth for the last pass. Microfiber polishing cloths have an affinity for both water and oil based liquids and will remove oily residues much better with less fiber inflicted scratches.

Anyway, that's what my experience has taught me after applying and removing gallons of #7 over the years, to every kind of car with every known type of paint.

Another person mentioned it will wash off. This is true. #7 is a "Body Shop" safe polish. It has no "Lasting Characteristics", i.e. it contains no ingredients that will affect "Paint Adhesion", typically waxes or silicones. (There are what are called, "Paintable Polymers", Meguiar's uses these in the "Speed Glaze", a body shop safe, cleaner/polish).

#7 is not meant to last. The idea is it will not semi-permanently "seal" or "Cap" the pores of the paint. (waxes, sealants, synthetics, polymers, whatever you prefer to call them act to semi-permanently seal or cap the pores of the paint. Nothing is permanent, at least not according to the theory of Entropy. This can lead into an entire discussion of "Permeable and Impermeable, but I digress).

This is important when used on solvent-borne paints because it allows the solvents to continue to work their way out of the paint resin through "capillary-action", (I think). The idea being that paint that is fully cured will be harder and last longer than paint that is not fully cured, i.e. softer and will not last as long.

How important this is to Catalyzed paints I do not know. The Synthetic wax crowd usually tells everyone it is safe to wax catalyzed paint shortly after they are sprayed. While this may be safe, I know that paint manufactures "Still" recommend waiting 30/60/90 days before you apply any type of "Sealant", i.e. wax to the surface. Best to follow manufactures recommendations when dealing with something as expensive a s new paint job, not to mention all of the work and inconvenience getting a car painted causes.

#7, in my opinion works better on single-stage finishes, either modern or traditional. For the wet-look, either Deep Crystal Polish, (very much like #7 but in Meguiar's Consumer line), is easier to apply and remove or #80 Hand Polish in the Meguiar's 80's series, (Body shop products, only comes in a quart).

I'm sorry you had a hard time applying and removing the product, perhaps if you try again, following my tips you will have better results.

By the way, as someone else commented, usually, #7 is applied first, then wax is applied over it. This is because the #7 is water soluble and the wax isn't', thus the wax will act to "Lock" or "Seal" in the #7.

However, right before a show, to make the paint look wet and to fill in hairline scratches, it is perfectly aright to apply the #7 on top of the wax, thus the name Show Car Glaze.

It was never formulated to be a lasting product, but instead a Beauty product.

Now I know the Zaino crowd, including Sal, don't like using "oily" product on their paint for a host of reasons, I understand this fully and also agree they have a point.

With that said, if your goal is to make the paint it's darkest, deepest and wettest looking, then I submit your best bet is a product that is oily and doesn't dry. Yes, it might be temporary, but the show only last one to two days sometimes three.

The name is Show Car Glaze, not water beading, long lasting durable Miracle Wax.

You also might give the #26 a try for a dark, deep finish like you black corvette.

No it doesn't bead water as long as Zaino and many other waxes, the #26, Gold Class and even the Medallion were never formulated to "Bead Water".

If you want to see a wax that will bead water, try the Meguiar's Cleaner/Wax in the Maroon bottle, make sure it says "New and Improved on the label.

Our chemist reformulated it to "Bead Water Like Crazy" because of consumer demand. Only costs $5.00 a bottle and works great for most people.

I'm sure they could do this for are other products but the idea, I think, was to make a wax that didn't bead water to avoid deep chemical etching that is caused when these tall beads dry on the finish.

Of course this doesn't matter to hard-core enthusiasts that dry their cars after washing.

That's all. Hope this helps,

Mike Phillips"

[ffboy]

Re: Does Meguiar's still has pure polish oil product for consumer?

Another advice is to have several microfiber towels. Since M07 or any product can build up in the microfiber and can cause even more smearing problems, having more microfibers ready for battle will ensure good results and on dark paint, especially black paint, patience with M07 always delivers fantastic results.

[kiwiatlarge]

Re: Does Meguiar's still has pure polish oil product for consumer?

My 2c as a 'consumer' using consumer products, and trying out #7 on a modernish, well conditioned clear coat.... Wasn't really worth the effort... Ultimate Polish is easier to use, and more than sufficient..

If I could pick up a the right classic car for the car club I'm in, with an older single stage, I'd be interested to try it again on that...

[ffboy]

Re: Does Meguiar's still has pure polish oil product for consumer?

Ultimate Polish has the edge in being more suitable for today's modern basecoat-clearcoat paint and that it has mild cleaners. But to me, M07 still works well on dark paint, even clearcoated paint. And as megs says, pure polish is an optional step. But in my experience, it M07 works well even on clearcoats. It seems to highlight whatever strong point paint has. On silver, or similar light metallic paint, it seems to bring out the flake and improve clarity while still adding just a bit more depth (again, to some, the difference might be too little to warrant this step), on dark metallic paint, it noticeably added more depth/made the black color even darker and wetter.

[Stephan]

Re: Does Meguiar's still has pure polish oil product for consumer?

If you like it and can find M7, I would suggest you buy it. Here in the states, it has the feeling of a wild goose chase to find fresh product.

[kiwiatlarge]

Re: Does Meguiar's still has pure polish oil product for consumer?

Ultimate Polish has the edge in being more suitable for today's modern basecoat-clearcoat paint and that it has mild cleaners. But to me, M07 still works well on dark paint, even clearcoated paint. And as megs says, pure polish is an optional step. But in my experience, it M07 works well even on clearcoats. It seems to highlight whatever strong point paint has. On silver, or similar light metallic paint, it seems to bring out the flake and improve clarity while still adding just a bit more depth (again, to some, the difference might be too little to warrant this step), on dark metallic paint, it noticeably added more depth/made the black color even darker and wetter.

I will still probably use it if I have the time, and are displaying our V8 in a club lineup or something... but as part of a 3-6 month Ultimate Polish/Ultimate Wax makeover combo... no... not worth the extra effort and time... Especially given how much extra work and paint area is involved with our V8, than my 2L daily driver, lol..

[kuko]

Re: Does Meguiar's still has pure polish oil product for consumer?

Deep Crystal should be easier to remove, being a consumer level product. But as with M07, it is to be removed while wet. So even if DC is easier to use, you have to remove it while it's wet to minimize any problems should they arise. M07 is a pain to use and requires a different technique when removing, but results a very much worth it.

You said that DC should be removed while it is wet. But on bottle is written "wipe dry". I'm confused now.

[Murr1525]

Re: Does Meguiar's still has pure polish oil product for consumer?

With the DC polish, either way is really ok.

[Stephan]

Re: Does Meguiar's still has pure polish oil product for consumer?

You said that DC should be removed while it is wet. But on bottle is written "wipe dry". I'm confused now.

I would read that as while the polish is still wet, "wipe it dry".