#21

[chrisalvarez]

Re: #21

yes I think that is a marketing strategy, and I do trust meguiars that's y I was wondering about their #21, but after exhausting research and reading countless reviews, I think I have it narrowed down to a couple for different reasons first wolfgang 3.0 because it has the slickness and the shine of a carnuba wax but is a durable sealant. it is a little pricey but I think it is worth it. second is rejex I don't know about the shine but I believe it is one of the most durable sealants you can get. third is detailers pro series because the durability and shine is there, but an interesting thing about this product is that it has technology that kind of helps it self bond to your paint (clean and defect free ofcourse) anyway I was planning on using this as my winter protection one of the sealants (if I can make a choice) and top with the collinite. as far as the summer and spring however I will stick to the uw but now I might try #21 in the warmer months to test it out and, or collinite if the shine is acceptable. thanks again for your help and thoughts, whatever I chose I will let you know and keep you updated on shine, durability etc,

[chrisalvarez]

Re: #21

also the other part of the matter is that even though I keep my car in my garage when im at home, in the Midwest it is exposed to extreme heat and extreme cold and road salt, snow, ice and who knows what else. also I do work at a industrial facility so there is all kinds of pollutants in the air as my car sits in the parking lot. and although things like uw or nxt offer great protection I just think that my car is exposed to a little more abuse than the average daily driver. so while I do enjoy detailing my car I would like not to spend hours EVERY time. and if I can find something to even just boost the protection and products I currently use from meguiars that would be fantastic.

[Psynx]

If you want durability, my go to is a coat of sealer m21 and let it cure for about 3 hours then put a layer of m26 pw for that nuba look. Since m26 by itself is known not to lasts long.

[chrisalvarez]

Re: #21

If you want durability, my go to is a coat of sealer m21 and let it cure for about 3 hours then put a layer of m26 pw for that nuba look. Since m26 by itself is known not to lasts long.

thanks & nice pics so u do use #21the as a base then a topper of some kind? Also I have seen alot of pics of cars of all different colors detailed using #21 and it seems to create a deep wet look which is what I want. Yes I think regardless if its my go to in the winter or not I will use the 21 just because I need to find out for myself

[ffboy]

Re: #21

#21 and NXT 2.0 are "similar" products, but #21 can be applied via rotary buffer. +1 on thcoe collinite 845, it is durable, having experience with both NXT 2.0 and collinite, I would say collinite is tempermental, but is more durable. Klasse (or Carlack 68) is also tempermental, particularly the Sealant Glaze/Long life sealant. That you have to apply real THIN. Some technique for removal can be used, I mist water on the cured sealant, use 2 microfibers for removal. With NXT 2.0/#21, after all the prep has been done, apply thin, allow product to haze, remove effortlessly.

As for durability, it's still based on many factors. If you're lucky enough to have a clean environment (no one does, really), waxes and sealants will really last. Where I live, pollution is quite bad, so sadly, even good sealants don't last as long as it should.

[chrisalvarez]

Re: #21

#21 and NXT 2.0 are "similar" products, but #21 can be applied via rotary buffer. +1 on thcoe collinite 845, it is durable, having experience with both NXT 2.0 and collinite, I would say collinite is tempermental, but is more durable. Klasse (or Carlack 68) is also tempermental, particularly the Sealant Glaze/Long life sealant. That you have to apply real THIN. Some technique for removal can be used, I mist water on the cured sealant, use 2 microfibers for removal. With NXT 2.0/#21, after all the prep has been done, apply thin, allow product to haze, remove effortlessly.

As for durability, it's still based on many factors. If you're lucky enough to have a clean environment (no one does, really), waxes and sealants will really last. Where I live, pollution is quite bad, so sadly, even good sealants don't last as long as it should.

thanks for the info &tips tips. So now I guess my question would be is ulw considered or technically a sealant? And how does it compare to #21a in terms of durability? And I guess I am confused as to the difference between a synthetic wax wax like ulw or nxt and a "sealant". The same or no

[Murr1525]

Re: #21

Yeah, dont get too caught up in the names "wax", "sealent", etc at the end.

Most of it is just marketing names....

In general on forums, "sealant" will be synthetic, and "wax" will be carnuba.

So in forum terms, that means ULW and Nxt are both sealants. ULW is just the upgraded version of Nxt.

[chrisalvarez]

Re: #21

Yeah, dont get too caught up in the names "wax", "sealent", etc at the end.

Most of it is just marketing names....

In general on forums, "sealant" will be synthetic, and "wax" will be carnuba.

So in forum terms, that means ULW and Nxt are both sealants. ULW is just the upgraded version of Nxt.

thanks Murr and ffboy and I did find my answer I just got a little confused because some companies throw the definitions around loosely. So I will stay with the ulw and in the winter I will try the collinite as a topper, also I didn't realize ulw has a cure time of 12hrs. So I thank everyone for their thoughts and help.

[Murr1525]

Re: #21

Remember, NuFinish Car Polish is actually a cleaner/wax... so names can mean anything, just have to read up on the description of things, or can always ask.

If in a hurry, you can always put your 2 coats of synthetic stuff on as soon as needed, not like it will all slide off or something. But leaving it sit for a while is going to be the best results with the synthetics.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: #21

For the record, Ultimate Wax is currently our longest lasting, best protecting wax. We don't make specific claims regarding durability, however, since there are so many variables. You can apply the exact same wax to two cars on the same day and that wax will last several months on one and just a few weeks on the other. Why? Well, if the first one is just a fair weather cruiser that is garage kept and the other is driven daily and never sees the inside of a garage, plus they reside in area that gets a lot of heavy rain, the exposure difference is huge. This will be true of any wax or sealant.

Now, when discussing these newer coatings, like Opti-Coat, 22ple, C-Quartz, and even our own M188 (sold in Asia only) things are a bit different. While these are incredibly durable when compared to more traditional waxes and sealants, they are not "life of the car" durable. You can still scratch them, for example, by having a dealer wash your car. This happened very recently to a friend of mine (and a member of this forum) when his wife's car went in for service. The dealer washed it, and scratched/swirled the heck out of the coating, and he was forced to buff it all off and reapply. And application can be a bit finicky with many of these coatings. Misjudge the timing for wipe off, or use too much product, and you can end up with high and low spots that give a textured appearance to the finish. Some of these products aren't even available to just anyone with a credit card - you have to be a trained and certified installer in order to even purchase the stuff. That's true of our M188 and C-Quartz Finest, but even these don't claim "life of the car" durability. They are excellent at protecting the paint from industrial fallout, acid rain, etc but without proper care they will, in time, develop swirls that need to be buffed out. And buffing out the swirls diminishes the coating, or removes it completely. Of course, the good news here is that 1)you're removing the coating and barely, if at all, touching the paint in the process and 2) these coatings to tend to be quite scratch resistant (in varying degrees) so accumulation of swirls should be slower. And it also makes little to no sense to wax over these coatings as you then detract from what they do so well - eliminate water and fine surface debris from the finish. So if you don't particularly like the way these coatings look (and many are NOT designed for beauty, but simply for protection) you're kind of stuck with what you've got. Of course it is critical that you totally eliminate all below surface defects before applying one of these coatings or you'll just lock in the swirls, etch marks, etc.

As always, there are positives and negatives to any such product - including waxes and sealants - so some investigation is urged before jumping into any one of these.

[ffboy]

Re: #21

thanks Murr and ffboy and I did find my answer I just got a little confused because some companies throw the definitions around loosely. So I will stay with the ulw and in the winter I will try the collinite as a topper, also I didn't realize ulw has a cure time of 12hrs. So I thank everyone for their thoughts and help.

Topping ULW with Collinite? I'm not saying it won't work, but these ULW has its own charm, but topping it would cover up the Hydrophobic and protective polymers in ULW. Depending on how you care for your car's paint, you can make ULW last as long as the Collinite, and vice versa. For now, you can stick with 2 coats of ULW appied 12 hours apart, maintain with Gold Class Car wash, UQD and UQW, and even Ultimate Wash and Wax anywhere if you want to try something different. Done regularly, you'll be surprised to how long your wax protection lasts and how shiny your car will be. And you may not even need to try out collinite, although I will understand if you still like to try it.

[chrisalvarez]

Re: #21

Topping ULW with Collinite? I'm not saying it won't work, but these ULW has its own charm, but topping it would cover up the Hydrophobic and protective polymers in ULW. Depending on how you care for your car's paint, you can make ULW last as long as the Collinite, and vice versa. For now, you can stick with 2 coats of ULW appied 12 hours apart, maintain with Gold Class Car wash, UQD and UQW, and even Ultimate Wash and Wax anywhere if you want to try something different. Done regularly, you'll be surprised to how long your wax protection lasts and how shiny your car will be. And you may not even need to try out collinite, although I will understand if you still like to try it.

tbat is actually my regular regimen for both my daily drivers. I just thought that collinite was worth a try in the winter. So how do you use collinite? Just a coat or two of tbat or? Do u put a base of anything else underneath?

[BillyJack]

Re: #21

Collinite has been an essential in my winter regimen for the past three winters and I've been very happy with it. My winter DD stays outside 24/7 and gets hand washed only when weather permits, usually with RFEW, ONR or DG Rinseless. In November I'll do a claying, followed by a machine polish, usually finishing with M09. I've tried 845 by hand and found that two coats are essential in getting my beater through an entire PA winter. Now that I have a D/A, I've done 2 coats of 476 paste, since the Meg's 4" pads fit inside the can and makes application a breeze. As of mid-March, I still have decent beading and a smooth finish, but I can tell we're fast approaching the need for a spring re-do. Once the weather gets nicer, I'll be playing with a bunch of different products, such as M16 or the new Black Wax, always searching for "the look", but I'll surely be back to Collinite come late fall.
Bill

[ffboy]

Re: #21

tbat is actually my regular regimen for both my daily drivers. I just thought that collinite was worth a try in the winter. So how do you use collinite? Just a coat or two of tbat or? Do u put a base of anything else underneath?

It is a pure wax, you can put it on top of a sealant or cleaner-polish-sealant. Basically the same process, wash, clay, clean (paint cleaner or cleaner wax), then maybe 1 or 2 coats of Collinite. I've used it on top of Carlack 68, but it collinite itself is already very durable that collinite itself is more than sufficient. I prefer to apply it by a cotton shallow pile microfiber applicator, I have difficulty controlling it when using a foam applicator.

Apply it real thin, apply per 2 panels. After finishing with the 2nd panel, remove the hazed product from the 1st one. Collinite recommends applying it when the car's paint is around +30 deg. Celsius. Apply 2 coats, maybe 1 hour apart.

I find it gives a brighter look, works wonderfully on silvers. It does have depth no doubt, but to my eye it has a bright, crisp look to it. And the water beading is amazing..

I have tried 845, 476s and 915, for ease of use, 845 wins. 476s and 915 are more durable and both (915 and 476s) seems equally durable, but more difficult to apply. 476s seems to have a brighter look than 915, but the differences are very small.

[chrisalvarez]

Re: #21

It is a pure wax, you can put it on top of a sealant or cleaner-polish-sealant. Basically the same process, wash, clay, clean (paint cleaner or cleaner wax), then maybe 1 or 2 coats of Collinite. I've used it on top of Carlack 68, but it collinite itself is already very durable that collinite itself is more than sufficient. I prefer to apply it by a cotton shallow pile microfiber applicator, I have difficulty controlling it when using a foam applicator.

Apply it real thin, apply per 2 panels. After finishing with the 2nd panel, remove the hazed product from the 1st one. Collinite recommends applying it when the car's paint is around +30 deg. Celsius. Apply 2 coats, maybe 1 hour apart.

I find it gives a brighter look, works wonderfully on silvers. It does have depth no doubt, but to my eye it has a bright, crisp look to it. And the water beading is amazing..

I have tried 845, 476s and 915, for ease of use, 845 wins. 476s and 915 are more durable and both (915 and 476s) seems equally durable, but more difficult to apply. 476s seems to have a brighter look than 915, but the differences. thethe inare very small.

thanks ffboy and billyjack for the info and the techniques for collinite very informative I think I will definately include it in the winter