Pro Line- What to choose for shop class?

[greg0303]

Re: Pro Line- What to choose for shop class?

The microfiber system certainly is an option also, and would let you cover a wide range of problems with 2 pads and 2 products and 1 backing plate.

Though it is kind of a whole new way of teaching and thinking of detailing, which can complicate things more.

And yeah, the combining steps thing....

Lots of options really. I guess it comes down to my usual school problem. Is it better to teach the old way step by step, or the way things actually are done in a job environment. I think I got some of both in college, and neither really was perfect.

Or even throwing in some hand applied #7 on a classic car like it is a favorite hobby.

I'm with you on that subject, Mat.

There are products which seem to be successfully defending themselves over times, like M80 or M07, and are still extremely popular but we also get new liquids/ systems every year.

DA Microfiber System is without doubt a great paint correction tool.

[stanclub]

Re: Pro Line- What to choose for shop class?

I am not a pro, but more like the advanced student that you might have! So, I just want to share my experience here with you that might help.

After trying many older generation products, such as DAT M80 & M84, and the ones even older as fine cut, heavy cut, etc. I really think M105 and M205 worth for the investment and can produce very nice shine! But for the cost reason, I think M84 & M80 will make nice low cost combo for your program. The only minor problem to me on DAT ( M84 & M80 ) is the built-up on pad that I have to clean often, verses M105 and M205 with SMAT, the abrasives just stay working so I won't have to keep adding much of compound in the process.

About wax, I ended up staying with M20. It has mild cleaning ability and VERY easy to wipe off. The person who suggested me on M20 also think that it leaves very nice shine on his black car, too. I can't confirm the shine since most of the cars in my family are white, and the rest of them are light color ........ just can't make them THAT shine

I am now looking into trying out D151, which is very versatile all-in-one product I heard, and can also produce nice shine. Although I am staying with M105/205 combo for perfection, but D151 could be a very nice product for production work ( if I ever go into that ?! ). The only problem I have here ..... no one sells D151 in Sacramento. What is up with that???

[Murr1525]

Re: Pro Line- What to choose for shop class?

Maybe it comes to what kind of syllabus you want to have, teaching style, etc. And what they want.

[wifpd4]

Re: Pro Line- What to choose for shop class?

...
How about this, if you guys were going to pick 3 products, to work on most vehicles, that could cover deep scratches all the way through polishing, what would you pick? Let's assume I'll finish it off with #21.

If you hadn't said "deep scratches", I would have said Ultimate Compound, SwirlX 2.0 and ColorX. Now I would have to say M105, Ultimate
Compound, and M205. Although in my limited experience, I'm not sure you can ever make the statement, "most vehicles". Meguiar's has indicated polish is an optional step, otherwise I might include Ultimate Polish due to it's mild cleaning abilities and excellent polishing characteristics.

This is too tough for me, sure hope the wise ones will have a better answer. I look forward to their comments.

[wifpd4]

Re: Pro Line- What to choose for shop class?

I hesitated just a tad long on my response and several excellent recommendations have been made while I was typing.

Time for me to think out of the box. DA MF System may well be the way to go. As the system will be main stream and appears to be economical.

[BS MXRacer]

Re: Pro Line- What to choose for shop class?

Here's a thought, why don't you talk to your school about setting up a summer course. Then find about 10 or so students that are willing to take the course during that time, you can iron out your curriculum then on a smaller group of students.

If you decide to charge customers, use that money to finance the next semester/years products and supplies. The only cost the school would have to pay is for that first summer when your getting all new equipment. Those students willing to take the course during the summer could come back and help out with instruction later on as well/ take advanced classes.

[gijoe985]

Re: Pro Line- What to choose for shop class?

I wish we could justify a summer course, but budget wouldn't work. My pay, facility normally closed, etc...

The NW Meguiar's rep has offered to come up and do a day long training for me and a small group of students.

[Murr1525]

Re: Pro Line- What to choose for shop class?

That might get you a good start, a better feel for what to be shopping for.

[Andrew C.]

Re: Pro Line- What to choose for shop class?

I haven't quite had time to go through and read all of the responses, but my suggestion would be to go with the new Meguiar's DA microfiber system. The reason being is that it really is probably the most bang for the buck.

While a gallon of D300 from ADS costs $99, you have to keep in mind that you use nowhere near the same amount of product when polishing out a car. You are only putting 2 or 3 drops of product on a pad after it has been primed. Keep in mind this is meant for DA only.

Another nice thing about the microfiber system is that you can control how much cut you want. Since it uses SMAT technology, you can get more cut by working it longer, doing slower passes, and applying more pressure or if a car isn't all too bad, you can give it a light pass and not remove more clear than necessary. The finishing wax doubles as a refining polishing step that also provides protection. If you still have room in the budget, you could follow up the finishing wax with a sealant like M21.

This will yield some great results. It is intended for factory clear coat paints, and was also designed somewhat with the intent of high production polishing, while staying safe at the same time.

Are you working by DA or rotary?

One thing no one has mentioned yet either is claying. It is ESSENTIAL to clay. You will not get optimal results if you try to remove swirls and defects with a dirty surface that has not been clayed. I would suggest buying the Meguiar's Mild Blue Clay bars (200g). The bar is big enough to be cut into 3 pieces. 2 Bars costs $45 from ADS. As far as lubricant, get Last Touch Detailer spray (I would suggest 5 gallons if you are going to be doing a decent amount of cars) and dilute it 1:1. You will be able to use this QD in all other areas where QD is needed in addition to claying.

[Shawn T.]

Re: Pro Line- What to choose for shop class?

I agree with everything Andrew said except with the clay. I would buy the Hi-Tech Mild Clay Bars from ADS as you can get 400 grams of it for $28! I used it the other day and it is just as good as any clay I have used.