Any cheaper alternatives to g101 v2 polisher?

[rapport25]

Re: Any cheaper alternatives to g101 v2 polisher?

bump

[Fly Bye]

Re: Any cheaper alternatives to g101 v2 polisher?

140 dollars seem a bit steep for just a hobby.

I spent 28k racing go karts back in the early 90's

[Fly Bye]

Re: Any cheaper alternatives to g101 v2 polisher?


I wasn't overly successful because a bunch of other racers had a bunch more money than I did

[rapport25]

Re: Any cheaper alternatives to g101 v2 polisher?

Bump

[BobbyG]

Re: Any cheaper alternatives to g101 v2 polisher?

When you compare the cost of it to lets say the Flex 3401 @ $299 or better, $140 seems like quite a bargain!

[techjazz]

Re: Any cheaper alternatives to g101 v2 polisher?

I will be using Ultimate compound followed by dc02 topped with nxt tech wax 2.0.

Just to be clear guys. Should i use a cutting pad burgandy for the ultimate compound? I would of thought this would be to much cut?

Followed by
a yellow polishing for the dc02 and finally a black finishing pad for the wax.

I have a black pearl with a few light swirls to remove.

Would just the yellow polishing pads be good enough for all 3 processes?

Also what is the benefit of using a finishing pad appplying wax?

Many thanks guys Rappy

To answer your question...

Doing a test spot is the best thing you can do before dialing in your process on your car. If you find out after doing the entire car that UC with a cutting pad hazed the paint a little bit (a possible side effect for using an aggressive product with a cutting pad) you'll have to do the entire car again to get a perfect finish -- especially when you could've say used a polishing pad instead of a cutting pad and got better results.

Isolate a small area on say your hood or trunk, and do a test spot, always of course using the Meguiar's mantra:

"Use the least aggressive method to get the job done..."

This could be your pad, the chemical, or both! Using the test spot, you can dial in your process and if you can make one small area of the car look good and have the results you want, you can duplicate this system over the entire car.

Try using a polishing pad with Ultimate Compound (if you even think you need a chemical that aggressive - you said you have light swirls) or Swirl X (less aggressive - I would start here) and then if you find out you're not getting the defects out, step up to a more aggressive medium. It's always better to remove not enough material, than removing too much. Remember, paint isn't infinite, and we want to preserve as much of the factory finish as we can while still beautifying it and making it shine like a show car!

Here would be my initial test spots...

• #80 with a polishing pad. (#80 is great stuff, and finishes down to a pure polish, so if #80 can get your correction the way you want it, it polishes down to like DC2 (#7) therefore you skip a step!)
• SwirlX with a polishing pad.
• Ultimate Compound with a polishing pad.
• Ultimate Compound with a cutting pad.

Don't forget you can always just do another pass of say SwirlX with a polishing pad if its really close to getting the defects out, or SwirlX and then #80 Speed Glaze.

Remember, its all subjective but if you remember getting a test spot and dialing in that system and using the least aggressive method to get the job done, you'll get the results you want. Faster.

[FinalTouchDetail]

Re: Any cheaper alternatives to g101 v2 polisher?

When you compare the cost of it to lets say the Flex 3401 @ $299 or better, $140 seems like quite a bargain!

The FLEX isn't the direct competition for the G110v2

It really competes against the PCXP, Griots Garage Polisher, UDM, Etc...

[rapport25]

Re: Any cheaper alternatives to g101 v2 polisher?

To answer your question...

Doing a test spot is the best thing you can do before dialing in your process on your car. If you find out after doing the entire car that UC with a cutting pad hazed the paint a little bit (a possible side effect for using an aggressive product with a cutting pad) you'll have to do the entire car again to get a perfect finish -- especially when you could've say used a polishing pad instead of a cutting pad and got better results.

Isolate a small area on say your hood or trunk, and do a test spot, always of course using the Meguiar's mantra:

"Use the least aggressive method to get the job done..."

This could be your pad, the chemical, or both! Using the test spot, you can dial in your process and if you can make one small area of the car look good and have the results you want, you can duplicate this system over the entire car.

Try using a polishing pad with Ultimate Compound (if you even think you need a chemical that aggressive - you said you have light swirls) or Swirl X (less aggressive - I would start here) and then if you find out you're not getting the defects out, step up to a more aggressive medium. It's always better to remove not enough material, than removing too much. Remember, paint isn't infinite, and we want to preserve as much of the factory finish as we can while still beautifying it and making it shine like a show car!

Here would be my initial test spots...

• #80 with a polishing pad. (#80 is great stuff, and finishes down to a pure polish, so if #80 can get your correction the way you want it, it polishes down to like DC2 (#7) therefore you skip a step!)
• SwirlX with a polishing pad.
• Ultimate Compound with a polishing pad.
• Ultimate Compound with a cutting pad.

Don't forget you can always just do another pass of say SwirlX with a polishing pad if its really close to getting the defects out, or SwirlX and then #80 Speed Glaze.

Remember, its all subjective but if you remember getting a test spot and dialing in that system and using the least aggressive method to get the job done, you'll get the results you want. Faster.

Great reply, many thanks . I have scratch x2 dc01 and ultimate compound already. It was just thinking using a polishing pad and do one full pass with a polishing pad and check my results with U/C. I agree least agressive is best.

I have seen some of the offers that come with #80 and #84.

What are these 2 products like?

Rappy

[fredcandetail]

Re: Any cheaper alternatives to g101 v2 polisher?

buy the Griots - G110v2 is waaaaaaaack
unless you're a hobbyist and will use it once a year, then it could last years or about 6 details

[Tuck91]

Re: Any cheaper alternatives to g101 v2 polisher?

buy the Griots - G110v2 is waaaaaaaack
unless you're a hobbyist and will use it once a year, then it could last years or about 6 details

Or a PC.

[SVT Lightning]

Re: Any cheaper alternatives to g101 v2 polisher?

A few years ago, I picked up the PC 7336SP at Lowes...on sale for $99! It's a sander and polisher. I have not hand waxed or polished a car since and my '99 L looks better than it did new! Once you go DA, you'll wonder how you ever lived without it! It's effortless and as I've heard Mike Phillips say...."bubba-proof"

[greg0303]

Re: Any cheaper alternatives to g101 v2 polisher?

Mother's makes Wax Attack Palm Polisher. It's not as effective as G110 because speed is not adjustable. Expect to correct small scratches, oxidation, swirls and hollograms but not serious defects. Mother's says it's a D/A polisher but it sounds more like orbital with 6.5" pads. The set includes polisher, two pads, power polish and power wax. Price $80. Can be easily used with all Meguiar's Consumer Products.

[J. A. Michaels]

Re: Any cheaper alternatives to g101 v2 polisher?

I would stay away from using the cutting (burgundy) pad for paint correction with the d/a. I just use it for wax removal in conjunction with microfiber bonnets.