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Re: How to achieve a flawless, mirror finish using Meguiar's M105 and a G110v2
Hi Macr, that makes complete sense. Are you applying M105 by a DA or a rotary polisher?
If you are using with a DA, then often times it best to judge the results you are getting as your polishing then looking for any film on the paint. Many times I have seen M105 continue to create amazing results while polishing across 'dry' paint, as long as the pad is still wet with product and has not become contaiminated.
The best judge is to polish to good light and inspect the finish as you work.
IF the product stops removing defects at the same rate, add a little more product and continue polishing (I would also clean the pad by brushing or blowing it out to be safe).
IF the product begins to leave micromarring, thoroughly clean out the pad. If cleaning doesn't work, switch to a fresh (but primed!) pad.
Oh, man... there's gonna be a lot of paint polishing dudes that appreciate the information listed in this thread. Nicely done!
This article proves to me (and should to you) that, regarding paint polishing, Todd gets it. He certainly knows how to use any machine to its full potential. Remember- Todd used the rotary for all defect removal and polishing duties at one time. So did I. A lot has changed, and now even a beginner can create some pretty spectacular finishes using only the random orbital, a foam pad, and one buffing liquid.
Keep in mind that this is not Meguiar's recommending M105 for use as a finishing polish. That being said, Todd and I (as well as many others) have had great success using M105 in the manner as described. If it fails to deliver a satisfactory result once in a while, we have no plan to blame Meguiar's for our desire to use M105 as a finishing polish!!!
There are several benefits that are created with pad priming, and Todd has pointed out two that are invaluable. Here are two more.
1. Most folks deduce that priming the pad at the onset of a polishing session is not a big deal. Think again!
Normally, most guys apply an X or O pattern of product to the pad, run the machine across the paint, and repeat. After two or three application cycles, the pad certainly looks primed (this statement assumes that enough product has been applied to fully coat the pad face in the first place).
Unless there is an overabundance of product being used, it is doubtful that the face has filled with buffing liquid (therefore mimicking the priming that would be achieved if done at the onset, as Todd has shown).
Further, a large group of people use a minimalistic approach, and use only four or five pea-sized dots of product to cut or polish with. In my opinion, (and obviously Todd's) this is a popular yet mechanically-inefficient approach.
Perhaps you're thinking, "Pad priming wastes product." Wrong! In my experience, I have found that it can extend the life of the pad during the polishing session as well as increase the working time per application of Meguiar's M105.
It may be tough to think of buffing liquid in this manner, but to understand the HUGE benefit of priming, you've got to keep in mind that the abrasives used in M105 are HARD. When packed tightly together (such as would be the case when priming), they can form a HARD BARRIER. This hard barrier can slow the ABSORPTION of the liquid ingredients used to make M105, effectively slowing liquid saturation of the pad. Anybody that has used a pad to the point of saturation knows that its ability to cut diminishes; the pad becomes only marginally resilient (liquid resides where air once did); the pad retains heat longer (liquid resides where air once did AGAIN), and; the added weight of the pad can throw the machine out of balance (like mud stuck to the inside of a car wheel).
Prime the pad as Todd as shown to minimize pad saturation and all associated effects.
2. Pad priming can extend the polishing cycle per application of M105.
If there are large areas of the pad available, M105 will eventually find its way into or onto those areas. I suppose this feeds into the theory that ample pad priming is achieved after a few application cycles, but there's no guarantee that there will be an even distribution of particles or liquid. The high speed motion of the machine can also pack abrasives together, so bridging of particles across several pad pores is not uncommon. This happens after the pad is primed, too, but at least we've filled in the pores to a large degree, and have thus created a pretty solid foundation for the loose particles and liquid to rest upon.
Inconsistently applied abrasives lead to inconsistent results.
Without priming, M105 seems to have a short working cycle- "It dries out fast", is a commonly seen comment. This is because the liquid ingredients of M105 soak into the foam pretty rapidly, while the abrasive particles attach to the membrane-like structure of the pad. So, without an inital priming, it seems as if M105 has "flashed off" or "dried out", when in fact, it has simply moved from the paint surface onto/into the pad.
Pad priming helps you avoid the false sense that M105 "dries too quickly".
To give you an idea of the type of person Kevin is, he called me and asked if it would be okay if he added some information to my post: He didn't want to over step some boundaries as some people are sensitive to such (and understandably).
What Kevin fails to mention is that he is the master and I am the student, so THANK YOU Kevin for adding more information that is extremely relevant and for teaching us how to use this product with these machines better!
I 100% agree with your post. This why I always liked Mike Phillip's statement, "Find something YOU like and use it often." If you get excellent or better results with a particular product is isn't necessarily because product A is better then product B, it is because YOU are better with product A then product B.
Great post!
Thanks Joe!!!!
Originally posted by Marc08EX
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If you are using with a DA, then often times it best to judge the results you are getting as your polishing then looking for any film on the paint. Many times I have seen M105 continue to create amazing results while polishing across 'dry' paint, as long as the pad is still wet with product and has not become contaiminated.
The best judge is to polish to good light and inspect the finish as you work.
IF the product stops removing defects at the same rate, add a little more product and continue polishing (I would also clean the pad by brushing or blowing it out to be safe).
IF the product begins to leave micromarring, thoroughly clean out the pad. If cleaning doesn't work, switch to a fresh (but primed!) pad.
Originally posted by Kevin Brown
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Oh, man... there's gonna be a lot of paint polishing dudes that appreciate the information listed in this thread. Nicely done!This article proves to me (and should to you) that, regarding paint polishing, Todd gets it. He certainly knows how to use any machine to its full potential. Remember- Todd used the rotary for all defect removal and polishing duties at one time. So did I. A lot has changed, and now even a beginner can create some pretty spectacular finishes using only the random orbital, a foam pad, and one buffing liquid.
Keep in mind that this is not Meguiar's recommending M105 for use as a finishing polish. That being said, Todd and I (as well as many others) have had great success using M105 in the manner as described. If it fails to deliver a satisfactory result once in a while, we have no plan to blame Meguiar's for our desire to use M105 as a finishing polish!!!
There are several benefits that are created with pad priming, and Todd has pointed out two that are invaluable. Here are two more.
1. Most folks deduce that priming the pad at the onset of a polishing session is not a big deal. Think again!
Normally, most guys apply an X or O pattern of product to the pad, run the machine across the paint, and repeat. After two or three application cycles, the pad certainly looks primed (this statement assumes that enough product has been applied to fully coat the pad face in the first place).
Unless there is an overabundance of product being used, it is doubtful that the face has filled with buffing liquid (therefore mimicking the priming that would be achieved if done at the onset, as Todd has shown).
Further, a large group of people use a minimalistic approach, and use only four or five pea-sized dots of product to cut or polish with. In my opinion, (and obviously Todd's) this is a popular yet mechanically-inefficient approach.
Perhaps you're thinking, "Pad priming wastes product." Wrong! In my experience, I have found that it can extend the life of the pad during the polishing session as well as increase the working time per application of Meguiar's M105.
It may be tough to think of buffing liquid in this manner, but to understand the HUGE benefit of priming, you've got to keep in mind that the abrasives used in M105 are HARD. When packed tightly together (such as would be the case when priming), they can form a HARD BARRIER. This hard barrier can slow the ABSORPTION of the liquid ingredients used to make M105, effectively slowing liquid saturation of the pad. Anybody that has used a pad to the point of saturation knows that its ability to cut diminishes; the pad becomes only marginally resilient (liquid resides where air once did); the pad retains heat longer (liquid resides where air once did AGAIN), and; the added weight of the pad can throw the machine out of balance (like mud stuck to the inside of a car wheel).
Prime the pad as Todd as shown to minimize pad saturation and all associated effects.
2. Pad priming can extend the polishing cycle per application of M105.
If there are large areas of the pad available, M105 will eventually find its way into or onto those areas. I suppose this feeds into the theory that ample pad priming is achieved after a few application cycles, but there's no guarantee that there will be an even distribution of particles or liquid. The high speed motion of the machine can also pack abrasives together, so bridging of particles across several pad pores is not uncommon. This happens after the pad is primed, too, but at least we've filled in the pores to a large degree, and have thus created a pretty solid foundation for the loose particles and liquid to rest upon.
Inconsistently applied abrasives lead to inconsistent results.
Without priming, M105 seems to have a short working cycle- "It dries out fast", is a commonly seen comment. This is because the liquid ingredients of M105 soak into the foam pretty rapidly, while the abrasive particles attach to the membrane-like structure of the pad. So, without an inital priming, it seems as if M105 has "flashed off" or "dried out", when in fact, it has simply moved from the paint surface onto/into the pad.
Pad priming helps you avoid the false sense that M105 "dries too quickly".
What Kevin fails to mention is that he is the master and I am the student, so THANK YOU Kevin for adding more information that is extremely relevant and for teaching us how to use this product with these machines better!
Originally posted by Woodie6250
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Great post!
Originally posted by Superior Shine
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Todd your an animal!!!
many thanks from the uk.
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