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Re: How to achieve a flawless, mirror finish using Meguiar's M105 and a G110v2
Oh, man... there's gonna be a lot of paint polishing dudes that appreciate the information listed in this thread. Nicely done!
This article proves to me (and should to you) that, regarding paint polishing, Todd gets it. He certainly knows how to use any machine to its full potential. Remember- Todd used the rotary for all defect removal and polishing duties at one time. So did I. A lot has changed, and now even a beginner can create some pretty spectacular finishes using only the random orbital, a foam pad, and one buffing liquid.
Keep in mind that this is not Meguiar's recommending M105 for use as a finishing polish. That being said, Todd and I (as well as many others) have had great success using M105 in the manner as described. If it fails to deliver a satisfactory result once in a while, we have no plan to blame Meguiar's for our desire to use M105 as a finishing polish!!!
There are several benefits that are created with pad priming, and Todd has pointed out two that are invaluable. Here are two more.
1. Most folks deduce that priming the pad at the onset of a polishing session is not a big deal. Think again!
Normally, most guys apply an X or O pattern of product to the pad, run the machine across the paint, and repeat. After two or three application cycles, the pad certainly looks primed (this statement assumes that enough product has been applied to fully coat the pad face in the first place).
Unless there is an overabundance of product being used, it is doubtful that the face has filled with buffing liquid (therefore mimicking the priming that would be achieved if done at the onset, as Todd has shown).
Further, a large group of people use a minimalistic approach, and use only four or five pea-sized dots of product to cut or polish with. In my opinion, (and obviously Todd's) this is a popular yet mechanically-inefficient approach.
Perhaps you're thinking, "Pad priming wastes product." Wrong! In my experience, I have found that it can extend the life of the pad during the polishing session as well as increase the working time per application of Meguiar's M105.
It may be tough to think of buffing liquid in this manner, but to understand the HUGE benefit of priming, you've got to keep in mind that the abrasives used in M105 are HARD. When packed tightly together (such as would be the case when priming), they can form a HARD BARRIER. This hard barrier can slow the ABSORPTION of the liquid ingredients used to make M105, effectively slowing liquid saturation of the pad. Anybody that has used a pad to the point of saturation knows that its ability to cut diminishes; the pad becomes only marginally resilient (liquid resides where air once did); the pad retains heat longer (liquid resides where air once did AGAIN), and; the added weight of the pad can throw the machine out of balance (like mud stuck to the inside of a car wheel).
Prime the pad as Todd as shown to minimize pad saturation and all associated effects.
2. Pad priming can extend the polishing cycle per application of M105.
If there are large areas of the pad available, M105 will eventually find its way into or onto those areas. I suppose this feeds into the theory that ample pad priming is achieved after a few application cycles, but there's no guarantee that there will be an even distribution of particles or liquid. The high speed motion of the machine can also pack abrasives together, so bridging of particles across several pad pores is not uncommon. This happens after the pad is primed, too, but at least we've filled in the pores to a large degree, and have thus created a pretty solid foundation for the loose particles and liquid to rest upon.
Inconsistently applied abrasives lead to inconsistent results.
Without priming, M105 seems to have a short working cycle- "It dries out fast", is a commonly seen comment. This is because the liquid ingredients of M105 soak into the foam pretty rapidly, while the abrasive particles attach to the membrane-like structure of the pad. So, without an inital priming, it seems as if M105 has "flashed off" or "dried out", when in fact, it has simply moved from the paint surface onto/into the pad.
Pad priming helps you avoid the false sense that M105 "dries too quickly".
Oh, man... there's gonna be a lot of paint polishing dudes that appreciate the information listed in this thread. Nicely done!This article proves to me (and should to you) that, regarding paint polishing, Todd gets it. He certainly knows how to use any machine to its full potential. Remember- Todd used the rotary for all defect removal and polishing duties at one time. So did I. A lot has changed, and now even a beginner can create some pretty spectacular finishes using only the random orbital, a foam pad, and one buffing liquid.
Keep in mind that this is not Meguiar's recommending M105 for use as a finishing polish. That being said, Todd and I (as well as many others) have had great success using M105 in the manner as described. If it fails to deliver a satisfactory result once in a while, we have no plan to blame Meguiar's for our desire to use M105 as a finishing polish!!!
There are several benefits that are created with pad priming, and Todd has pointed out two that are invaluable. Here are two more.
1. Most folks deduce that priming the pad at the onset of a polishing session is not a big deal. Think again!
Normally, most guys apply an X or O pattern of product to the pad, run the machine across the paint, and repeat. After two or three application cycles, the pad certainly looks primed (this statement assumes that enough product has been applied to fully coat the pad face in the first place).
Unless there is an overabundance of product being used, it is doubtful that the face has filled with buffing liquid (therefore mimicking the priming that would be achieved if done at the onset, as Todd has shown).
Further, a large group of people use a minimalistic approach, and use only four or five pea-sized dots of product to cut or polish with. In my opinion, (and obviously Todd's) this is a popular yet mechanically-inefficient approach.
Perhaps you're thinking, "Pad priming wastes product." Wrong! In my experience, I have found that it can extend the life of the pad during the polishing session as well as increase the working time per application of Meguiar's M105.
It may be tough to think of buffing liquid in this manner, but to understand the HUGE benefit of priming, you've got to keep in mind that the abrasives used in M105 are HARD. When packed tightly together (such as would be the case when priming), they can form a HARD BARRIER. This hard barrier can slow the ABSORPTION of the liquid ingredients used to make M105, effectively slowing liquid saturation of the pad. Anybody that has used a pad to the point of saturation knows that its ability to cut diminishes; the pad becomes only marginally resilient (liquid resides where air once did); the pad retains heat longer (liquid resides where air once did AGAIN), and; the added weight of the pad can throw the machine out of balance (like mud stuck to the inside of a car wheel).
Prime the pad as Todd as shown to minimize pad saturation and all associated effects.
2. Pad priming can extend the polishing cycle per application of M105.
If there are large areas of the pad available, M105 will eventually find its way into or onto those areas. I suppose this feeds into the theory that ample pad priming is achieved after a few application cycles, but there's no guarantee that there will be an even distribution of particles or liquid. The high speed motion of the machine can also pack abrasives together, so bridging of particles across several pad pores is not uncommon. This happens after the pad is primed, too, but at least we've filled in the pores to a large degree, and have thus created a pretty solid foundation for the loose particles and liquid to rest upon.
Inconsistently applied abrasives lead to inconsistent results.
Without priming, M105 seems to have a short working cycle- "It dries out fast", is a commonly seen comment. This is because the liquid ingredients of M105 soak into the foam pretty rapidly, while the abrasive particles attach to the membrane-like structure of the pad. So, without an inital priming, it seems as if M105 has "flashed off" or "dried out", when in fact, it has simply moved from the paint surface onto/into the pad.
Pad priming helps you avoid the false sense that M105 "dries too quickly".
...I have used the cutting pad on my PC with m105 on my truck with great results, but am too scared to try it on my black mustang
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