New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

[RaskyR1]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

Thanks for the information! All my sanding woes have been solved by simply going with a wool pad. I looked into the 3M Extra Cut, but M105 did the job for me since I was using 2000 grit unigrit paper. I would look more into 3M Extra Cut if I were using 1000 grit paper.

A compound that needs follow-up with M105 must be a very abrasive product!!! lol

Why were you sanding the RL, aka Honda Legend? Was it repainted, but with too much orange peel?



lol... this thread is soo old. I've removed those marks using a wool pad and a Makita about a month ago. Thanks!

LOL...Sorry, I never noticed the date on the thread. Glad to hear you got it all buffed out.

The Acura RL is actually my fiancees car and it got hammered with close to $10k in hail damage! New roof, hood, trunk, fender and then the rest was done with PDR and traditional body work.

I actually sanded with 800, 1500, and then 3000. Even after using the 3000 M105 and M95 were slow going with the Solo cutting pad on the rotary. The 3M cut noticably faster but left the finish VERY swirled. I got the first compounding step done last night and I should finish it up this weekend.

Keep an eye out for a new thread Sunday or Monday.

[RaskyR1]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

That is the exact combo I have used many times 3M6060 was replaced by 3M6085. The best thing to do is check with the body shop and find out the Buff window per paint mfg recommendation. I have seen some as short as 48 hrs and some 3-5 days. Once the clear cross links your Buffing concrete.

I may have a very good and less expensive alternative to Trizact, I am meeting with the Factory Tech rep Nxt week and will let you know

Please do!

The car was painted at the body shop where my father works. I offered to wet sand and buff it myself in exchange for them doing some extra painting....that and I really didn't want them doing it anyway. They use a high solids clear by BASF. I had planned on sanding and buffing it right away know how hard it gets, but I ended up taking on a few last minute detail jobs and then went on vacation...so it's 100% my fault.

[the_invisible]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

Did you try DC2?

I'm interested to know how it appears on a light silver?

It's noticeable on my light blue.

Eddie, you should have posted earlier! I went to Seattle Downtown again today and was contemplating on picking up a bottle of DC-2 to test. It was only $6.49 USD and it's been ages since I've used the stuff.

Anyhow, this car has been polished and jeweled using the rotary, and currently without any wax or sealant! Even in such state, the car is extremely glossy and shiny. I really don't think adding a layer of glaze or pure polish on it would improve it much. I am sure it will look good and increase the depth, but not by much. I don't think I'd bother with M07 either.

You should post up some pictures of your blue car with DC-2!

OP, the clear I'm working on is very hard as well...mainly because I waited 4 weeks to start sanding. I found the 3M extra cut to be much more effective on the harder clear than the M105...though it does leave some pretty deep marring itself which I follow up with M105.

Thanks for the information! All my sanding woes have been solved by simply going with a wool pad. I looked into the 3M Extra Cut, but M105 did the job for me since I was using 2000 grit unigrit paper. I would look more into 3M Extra Cut if I were using 1000 grit paper.

A compound that needs follow-up with M105 must be a very abrasive product!!! lol

Why were you sanding the RL, aka Honda Legend? Was it repainted, but with too much orange peel?

Invisible, you said you used M105 and an LC orange pad to remove the sanding marks. Was this done with a DA or a rotary?

I recommend using a rotary and a Solo Maroon wool pad for removing sanding marks. You will reduce the number of applications required from 5 or 6 down to 2 or 3.

Good luck

lol... this thread is soo old. I've removed those marks using a wool pad and a Makita about a month ago. Thanks!

[SHYNEMAN123]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

You ain't kidding! I just picked up some more the other day for a wet sand job I'm working on.

They do work well though.




OP, the clear I'm working on is very hard as well...mainly because I waited 4 weeks to start sanding. I found the 3M extra cut to be much more effective on the harder clear than the M105...though it does leave some pretty deep marring itself which I follow up with M105.

That is the exact combo I have used many times 3M6060 was replaced by 3M6085. The best thing to do is check with the body shop and find out the Buff window per paint mfg recommendation. I have seen some as short as 48 hrs and some 3-5 days. Once the clear cross links your Buffing concrete.

I may have a very good and less expensive alternative to Trizact, I am meeting with the Factory Tech rep Nxt week and will let you know

[InfiniteDetail]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

Invisible, you said you used M105 and an LC orange pad to remove the sanding marks. Was this done with a DA or a rotary?

I recommend using a rotary and a Solo Maroon wool pad for removing sanding marks. You will reduce the number of applications required from 5 or 6 down to 2 or 3.

Good luck

[RaskyR1]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

One big diff with 3m Trizact is the $ 5.00 for a 3000 grit 6" dia sheet price ouch !!! When I run out of free samples not sure if I will Purchase.

You ain't kidding! I just picked up some more the other day for a wet sand job I'm working on.

They do work well though.




OP, the clear I'm working on is very hard as well...mainly because I waited 4 weeks to start sanding. I found the 3M extra cut to be much more effective on the harder clear than the M105...though it does leave some pretty deep marring itself which I follow up with M105.

[Eddie6th]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

One big diff with 3m Trizact is the $ 5.00 for a 3000 grit 6" dia sheet price ouch !!! When I run out of free samples not sure if I will Purchase.

I havn't checked out Trizact here for price. I get good enough stuff from the bodyshop outlet.If I'm stuck,I get freebies from my pal .I think a couple were Trizact that he gave me a while back.


I definitely won't order this though.

Code: S3025 > Unigrit 3000, exact same amount and size from what I can see.

U.S.A. ...........$31.49 = €21.64
Italy ............€79.18 = $115.20 ( ( () ) )

It's a bit over priced

[SHYNEMAN123]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

I think both makes of paper are very good.Yes,I've heard of trizact before,but thanks for the info...i didn't know it was an equivalent of unigrit.

Glad to see your persistence paid off.

Are you going to polish with a DA? A lot of users like 205 with that from what I've read.

What about DC2?...pure polish. I like it even on light colored vehicles.

One big diff with 3m Trizact is the $ 5.00 for a 3000 grit 6" dia sheet price ouch !!! When I run out of free samples not sure if I will Purchase.

[Eddie6th]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

Did you try DC2?

I'm interested to know how it appears on a light silver?

It's noticeable on my light blue.

[KC's]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

Sorry for late

I simple find u r irresistible....

forum will not be the same without u

[Eddie6th]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

I think both makes of paper are very good.Yes,I've heard of trizact before,but thanks for the info...i didn't know it was an equivalent of unigrit.

Glad to see your persistence paid off.

Are you going to polish with a DA? A lot of users like 205 with that from what I've read.

What about DC2?...pure polish. I like it even on light colored vehicles.

[the_invisible]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

I'm still worried that your wet sanding a hood that was repainted last week. I guess if they said you could go ahead but I can't imagine it's ready for that type of work.

Maybe I'm wrong.

Ryan

Hi Ryan,

I was worried about that as well. However, I noticed for years that most bodyshops wetsand repainted surfaces immediately after baking without any problem. A guy by the name of rope with a dog in his avatar said that he wetsand at his bodyshop as well.

Also, according to Shyneman123, an experienced bodyman on MOL, wetsanding is crucial to allow solvent to evaporate. Shyneman123 was right on when he recognized that the dullness on my hood was caused by solvent unable to escape, thereby bursting microscopic holes through the clear.

At this point, I am not seeing any negative effect from wetsanding.

Actually, Unigrit is the specific branded name that Meguiar's uses for its wet sanding paper. This isn't a generic term referring to a style of paper- but the brand name.

Just like 3M uses Trizact to name their sandpaper.

But back on point, I have very limited experience with brands other than Meguiar's Unigrit, but I did get the nicest stuff Home Depot had to offer for a project in the past and it didn't last 1/4th the time the Unigrit did. Also, the Unigrit is named that for a reason- it is manufactured with an extremely rigid level of uniformity between the bits and pieces...which help to reduce the presence of tracers.

Have you tried contacting online or local Meguiar's vendors to see if they can get you legitimate Unigrit paper? Unigrit comes in grits up to 3,000 which is VERY, very fine.

Hi Mark,

As I have already implied, I am using the term unigrit to generalize sandpaper with grit with good uniformality.

I would actually like to get my hands on some Trizact sandpaper, but I believe that is a line of 3M sandpapers only available in America. What we have here is the 3M Imperial wetordry line of products, designed for bodyshops. Trizact is probably tailored more for delicate body touchups and fine detailing.

Unfortunately, Canadian Meguiar's retailers do not have access to many of the great Meguiar's products. They can't even get M205 or M105. Maybe some local retailers could get their hands on some Meguiar's unigrit sandpapers, but I believe such product only comes in packages of 25 sheets. I don't think I need that many.

My only option is to get my unigrit papers from ADS, as ADS sells unigrit paper by the piece. I will be getting some 2000, 2500, and 3000 grit unigrit from ADS in a couple weeks when I head down to the States. ADS doesn't ship to Canada...



Anyway, what kind of polish should I use for my recently wetsanded and compounded hood? The hood looks great now. I think polishing it would further enhance the gloss and depth of the color. But what is a suitable polish for this type of durable paint? I have two choices: SwirlX and M205. According to MeguiarsAsia on youtube, SwirlX is less aggressive than M205. According to MOL, SwirlX is more aggressive than M205. In theory, I should be using a more aggressive polish on the hard paint. But between SwirlX and M205, which one is more aggressive?

[Markus Kleis]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

I think most latex backed sandpaper are unigrit. Because latex backed sandpapers are ALWAYS used for wetsanding, and wetsanding is always performed on the most delicate surfaces, such sandpaper is likely to have grit that is as uniform as possible.

Actually, Unigrit is the specific branded name that Meguiar's uses for its wet sanding paper. This isn't a generic term referring to a style of paper- but the brand name.

Just like 3M uses Trizact to name their sandpaper.

But back on point, I have very limited experience with brands other than Meguiar's Unigrit, but I did get the nicest stuff Home Depot had to offer for a project in the past and it didn't last 1/4th the time the Unigrit did. Also, the Unigrit is named that for a reason- it is manufactured with an extremely rigid level of uniformity between the bits and pieces...which help to reduce the presence of tracers.

Have you tried contacting online or local Meguiar's vendors to see if they can get you legitimate Unigrit paper? Unigrit comes in grits up to 3,000 which is VERY, very fine.

[Ryan L.]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

I'm still worried that your wet sanding a hood that was repainted last week. I guess if they said you could go ahead but I can't imagine it's ready for that type of work.

Maybe I'm wrong.

Ryan

[the_invisible]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

I think most latex backed sandpaper are unigrit. Because latex backed sandpapers are ALWAYS used for wetsanding, and wetsanding is always performed on the most delicate surfaces, such sandpaper is likely to have grit that is as uniform as possible. If you could find a latex backed sandpaper, get it. It is probably unigrit. Even if it isn't, it should be close enough given its latex backing.

The 3M Imperial Wetordry sandpaper is probably as close to unigrit as any mainstream sandpaper could get. It is not unigrit, but the variance of grit level is probably relatively small. Almost all bodyshops utilize the 3M Imperial Wetordry sandpaper, so its grit must be consistent.

Keep in mind that the term Unigrit is adopted by Meguiar's for marketing purposes. There are alot of "unigrit" sandpaper on the market that do not utilize such term. The Meguiar's unigrit sandpaper is actually produced by a sandpaper company in Japan, rebadged and repackaged for sale by Meguiar's.

Without a doubt, Sikkens is probably one of the most reputable auto-paint makers in Europe, if not in the world. You know a paint is hard when you see a VERY VERY Fine scratch that couldn't be removed by M105. We can all appreciate hard paint. Hard paint coating probably resist well against swirling, but when it comes to correction, it can be a nightmare.

Today I started removing as much tracers as I could see with my naked eyes. Basically I held a magnifying glass and inspect every single inch of the hood for tracers. Whenever I see a tracer, I put a small piece of masking tape near the tracer mark so I could go back later and wetsand the area. It took me hours just to inspect the entire hood for tracers.

What I did to remove the tracers was by wetsanding the tracers in a perpendicular direction. The sandpaper I used to remove the tracers was the same piece of sandpaper that created the tracers. I cut the 2500 grit 3M sandpaper into six 1" x1" pieces, and then soaked the small pieces of sandpaper into a cup of distilled water with aloe hand soap for 24 hours. For lubrication, I used distilled water mixed with some Deep Crystal Shampoo. I ensured I am removing as little clear coat as possible because all the tracers were extremely fine. To avoid creating even more tracers, I sanded using very short strokes and sanded against the tracers in perpendicular direction. I succeeded in avoiding creating more tracers when removing tracers.

Here is a picture of what I did today to remove the tracers (there were actually more than in this picture):



So far, I believe I have removed about 95% of the tracers. Some are simply too fine to be detected. I removed as much as I possibly could.

I gave the wetsanded marks a number of passes using M105. The hood turns out pretty good now. The hood is now ready for polish.

With the paint so hard, what would be the best polish to use on the hood?