New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

[Eddie6th]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

One big diff with 3m Trizact is the $ 5.00 for a 3000 grit 6" dia sheet price ouch !!! When I run out of free samples not sure if I will Purchase.

I havn't checked out Trizact here for price. I get good enough stuff from the bodyshop outlet.If I'm stuck,I get freebies from my pal .I think a couple were Trizact that he gave me a while back.


I definitely won't order this though.

Code: S3025 > Unigrit 3000, exact same amount and size from what I can see.

U.S.A. ...........$31.49 = €21.64
Italy ............€79.18 = $115.20 ( ( () ) )

It's a bit over priced

[RaskyR1]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

One big diff with 3m Trizact is the $ 5.00 for a 3000 grit 6" dia sheet price ouch !!! When I run out of free samples not sure if I will Purchase.

You ain't kidding! I just picked up some more the other day for a wet sand job I'm working on.

They do work well though.




OP, the clear I'm working on is very hard as well...mainly because I waited 4 weeks to start sanding. I found the 3M extra cut to be much more effective on the harder clear than the M105...though it does leave some pretty deep marring itself which I follow up with M105.

[InfiniteDetail]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

Invisible, you said you used M105 and an LC orange pad to remove the sanding marks. Was this done with a DA or a rotary?

I recommend using a rotary and a Solo Maroon wool pad for removing sanding marks. You will reduce the number of applications required from 5 or 6 down to 2 or 3.

Good luck

[SHYNEMAN123]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

You ain't kidding! I just picked up some more the other day for a wet sand job I'm working on.

They do work well though.




OP, the clear I'm working on is very hard as well...mainly because I waited 4 weeks to start sanding. I found the 3M extra cut to be much more effective on the harder clear than the M105...though it does leave some pretty deep marring itself which I follow up with M105.

That is the exact combo I have used many times 3M6060 was replaced by 3M6085. The best thing to do is check with the body shop and find out the Buff window per paint mfg recommendation. I have seen some as short as 48 hrs and some 3-5 days. Once the clear cross links your Buffing concrete.

I may have a very good and less expensive alternative to Trizact, I am meeting with the Factory Tech rep Nxt week and will let you know

[the_invisible]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

Did you try DC2?

I'm interested to know how it appears on a light silver?

It's noticeable on my light blue.

Eddie, you should have posted earlier! I went to Seattle Downtown again today and was contemplating on picking up a bottle of DC-2 to test. It was only $6.49 USD and it's been ages since I've used the stuff.

Anyhow, this car has been polished and jeweled using the rotary, and currently without any wax or sealant! Even in such state, the car is extremely glossy and shiny. I really don't think adding a layer of glaze or pure polish on it would improve it much. I am sure it will look good and increase the depth, but not by much. I don't think I'd bother with M07 either.

You should post up some pictures of your blue car with DC-2!

OP, the clear I'm working on is very hard as well...mainly because I waited 4 weeks to start sanding. I found the 3M extra cut to be much more effective on the harder clear than the M105...though it does leave some pretty deep marring itself which I follow up with M105.

Thanks for the information! All my sanding woes have been solved by simply going with a wool pad. I looked into the 3M Extra Cut, but M105 did the job for me since I was using 2000 grit unigrit paper. I would look more into 3M Extra Cut if I were using 1000 grit paper.

A compound that needs follow-up with M105 must be a very abrasive product!!! lol

Why were you sanding the RL, aka Honda Legend? Was it repainted, but with too much orange peel?

Invisible, you said you used M105 and an LC orange pad to remove the sanding marks. Was this done with a DA or a rotary?

I recommend using a rotary and a Solo Maroon wool pad for removing sanding marks. You will reduce the number of applications required from 5 or 6 down to 2 or 3.

Good luck

lol... this thread is soo old. I've removed those marks using a wool pad and a Makita about a month ago. Thanks!

[RaskyR1]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

That is the exact combo I have used many times 3M6060 was replaced by 3M6085. The best thing to do is check with the body shop and find out the Buff window per paint mfg recommendation. I have seen some as short as 48 hrs and some 3-5 days. Once the clear cross links your Buffing concrete.

I may have a very good and less expensive alternative to Trizact, I am meeting with the Factory Tech rep Nxt week and will let you know

Please do!

The car was painted at the body shop where my father works. I offered to wet sand and buff it myself in exchange for them doing some extra painting....that and I really didn't want them doing it anyway. They use a high solids clear by BASF. I had planned on sanding and buffing it right away know how hard it gets, but I ended up taking on a few last minute detail jobs and then went on vacation...so it's 100% my fault.

[RaskyR1]

Re: New Paint Too Hard; Simple RIDS require wetsanding for correction

Thanks for the information! All my sanding woes have been solved by simply going with a wool pad. I looked into the 3M Extra Cut, but M105 did the job for me since I was using 2000 grit unigrit paper. I would look more into 3M Extra Cut if I were using 1000 grit paper.

A compound that needs follow-up with M105 must be a very abrasive product!!! lol

Why were you sanding the RL, aka Honda Legend? Was it repainted, but with too much orange peel?



lol... this thread is soo old. I've removed those marks using a wool pad and a Makita about a month ago. Thanks!

LOL...Sorry, I never noticed the date on the thread. Glad to hear you got it all buffed out.

The Acura RL is actually my fiancees car and it got hammered with close to $10k in hail damage! New roof, hood, trunk, fender and then the rest was done with PDR and traditional body work.

I actually sanded with 800, 1500, and then 3000. Even after using the 3000 M105 and M95 were slow going with the Solo cutting pad on the rotary. The 3M cut noticably faster but left the finish VERY swirled. I got the first compounding step done last night and I should finish it up this weekend.

Keep an eye out for a new thread Sunday or Monday.