Ok, stupid questions.....again

[ahooah48444]

I just got a G100, 8006, 9006, and MF bonnets. Before summer gets here I would like to get the answers so I don't waste precious time I could be using detailing the car. I saw some answers somewhere, but not all in one place so I am asking to get all the answers in one shot. Here are some questions:

If I use a pad to apply wax, polish, etc., what pad is best for each?

When removing above items, what is the best method? (just a pad or a pad with a bonnet)

After I remove product, should I go over it once with a pad and bonnet?

Should I designate one or two pads just for using under the bonnet so product doesn't soak through?

[Murr1525]

Re: Ok, stupid questions.....again

1. 8006 for cleaner/polishes. 9006 for pure polishes and waxes.

2. For removing cleaner/polishes and polishes, a SS microfiber seems easiest. For wax, a MF bonnet over a 7006 pad is good, though a SS could be used.

3. Huh? Once you remove it, its gone...

4. You will want to designate your clean 7006 pad for use with the bonnets. Of course ot not put a pad full of product under the bonnets.

[Playr]

Re: Ok, stupid questions.....again

Keep in mind W7006 should ONLY be used under a MF bonnet to remove wax. So, designate one for that purpose and that purpose only.

[Jeepster04]

Re: Ok, stupid questions.....again

I use the 7006 pad with a bonnet on it to remove everything. Then I go over the entire Jeep with a SS to make sure I didnt miss any spots since I cant get all the tight spots with the bonnet. I usually use the same SS for every step since much product doesnt get on it and you can fold it into 1/4's. Saves towels and such.

DO NOT use a dry pad to remove polish or wax! Or anything for that matter!!

[Sydster]

Re: Ok, stupid questions.....again

I use the 7006 pad with a bonnet on it to remove everything. Then I go over the entire Jeep with a SS to make sure I didnt miss any spots since I cant get all the tight spots with the bonnet. I usually use the same SS for every step since much product doesnt get on it and you can fold it into 1/4's. Saves towels and such.

DO NOT use a dry pad to remove polish or wax! Or anything for that matter!!

[J. A. Michaels]

Re: Ok, stupid questions.....again

If I am rerading his question right. I think he is referring to using the machine to buff out the completed vehicle. No you do not do this. Just take a ss over the entire car to make sure you did not miss anywhere. Just like Bluelibby stated.

[ahooah48444]

Re: Ok, stupid questions.....again

So what speeds for the application of cleaner/polish/and wax? Speed for removal? Will a 8006 work instead of a 7006? Why is the 7006 recommended under the mf bonnet instead of the 8006?

[Murr1525]

Re: Ok, stupid questions.....again

With a G100, you want speed 6 to apply cleaners, 3 to apply waxes, and 6 to remove waxes.

The 7007 is a very firm pad compared to the 8006 and 9006, so better for applying pressure with to remove the wax.

[kellyinkc]

Re: Ok, stupid questions.....again

Here's a list of-recommended speeds for the G100.

http://forumarchive.meguiars.com/forums/thread/31501.aspx

Speed 6 is not recommended by Meguiar's. One can and I have and the pad flew off.....

Oh, and no such thing as a stupid question!

Kelly

[Andy M.]

Re: Ok, stupid questions.....again

AH Yes Grasshopper the only stupid question is the one that is not asked.

Here's a list of-recommended speeds for the G100.

http://forumarchive.meguiars.com/forums/thread/31501.aspx

Speed 6 is not recommended by Meguiar's. One can and I have and the pad flew off.....

Oh, and no such thing as a stupid question!

Kelly

[Murr1525]

Re: Ok, stupid questions.....again

Whoops.. wrong pattern of numbers.... Thats what not detailing all winter will do to you... Oh well, at least others are paying attention.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Ok, stupid questions.....again

This should help:

Wash the car, dry it and clay if needed.

Grab a yellow 8006 pad, apply a bead of polish (M80, M83 etc) about 1/4" wide in a circle about 1" in from the edge of the pad. Set the machine to speed 5, place the pad against the paint and turn the machine on. Spread the polish over an area roughly 2' x 2' and then s-l-o-w-l-y move the machine back and forth over that 2' x 2' area, applying enough pressure to deform the pad, but not enough to stop the pad from rotating. As you move the machine back and forth make sure to overlap your passes by about 50%. And move the machine s-l-o-w-l-y!! As the polish breaks down it will start to appear transparent rather than milky. This is an indication that it's time to stop polishing, switch off the machine, lift it from the paint and set it down. Now take a clean microfiber towel and remove the remaining polish. Move on to the next 2' x 2' section and repeat the process. Continue to do this until you've gone over the entire vehicle. Do NOT allow the polish to dry - remove the excess after each 2' x 2' section.

NOTE: Before doing the entire vehicle, check your work on the initial section very closely to see if you've gotten rid of the swirls. Do a second application in the same area if need be, or step up from M80 to M83 if need be. Nothing worse than doing an entire car only to find your technique wasn't great and you didn't accomplish what you wanted to.

OK, now that the polishing is done, pull the yellow 8006 pad off and apply the tan 9006 pad. Set the machine to speed 3 and apply a bead of wax or sealant (Gold Class, NXT, M21, M26, etc) as mentioned above. Set the pad against the paint and turn the machine on. Use less pressure than you did in the polishing step and you can also move the machine over the paint more quickly than before. Remember, nothing is breaking down now and you aren't doing any real "work", you're just laying down a nice thin layer of protection. As you cover an area go over it two or three times just to make sure you're covering evenly. A little goes a long way so if the pad still feels "wet" with product and it leaves some behind on the paint, you can keep applying. Subsequent additions of product as you move around the vehicle will become smaller in volume. Less is more - don't pile this on. If your car is white or silver you should almost have a hard time seeing where you've applied the wax - it should be that thin. Once you've gone around the whole car you can sit back and let the wax/sealant haze over. Should be 15-20 minutes depending on temp and humidity. Do the swipe test to determine if it's ready to come off.

To remove the hazed wax/sealant you can either wrap a microfiber bonnet over a maroon 7006 pad and set the machine back to speed 5 and have at it, or just take a couple of clean, dry microfibers and take it off by hand. I find the stiffer 7006 pad won't reach all the tighter areas that the softer 9006 could when applying the wax so I have to go back and touch up by hand anyway. For me it's just easier to remove the hazed product by hand. If you applied it right it comes off incredibly easy anyway.

Hope that helps.

[Playr]

Re: Ok, stupid questions.....again

I find the stiffer 7006 pad won't reach all the tighter areas that the softer 9006 could when applying the wax so I have to go back and touch up by hand anyway. For me it's just easier to remove the hazed product by hand. If you applied it right it comes off incredibly easy anyway.

Hope that helps.

You nailed it Mike. Very detailed summary.

I too like to remove wax by hand.

1) I can get close to the car and do a final inspection from various angles during that wipedown, and I can feel the cloth gliding across the finish and see how slick it is.

2) I always have to get into nooks and crannies during the wipedown.

3) When taking wax off, I like to turn/refold/shake out my cloths. That would require taking time messing with bonnets.

Anyway, that's just me (there's more than one way to skin a cat).

[ahooah48444]

Re: Ok, stupid questions.....again

That's why I use to do it by hand. My shoulders are getting too sore for that now. I was thinking of using the G100 to apply all products. Removal might still be by hand. Do you remove all products by hand or just the wax?

[ahooah48444]

Re: Ok, stupid questions.....again

I currently use Deep Crystal three step wax. Is there a better system to use? I plan on bringing the car home in the next two months weather permitting. I would like to continue to use final inspection #34, but am open to suggestions to cleaner, polish, and wax.