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#7 after #80 balling up

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  • #16
    This may be a bit for me to jump in on this thread, but I had my first experience with #7 last night at Meguiar's Wednesday Night Open Garage. I notice you're using either a cotton pad or MF towel to apply the #7 and the product is drying out on you rather quickly. I was using a foam applicator pad and was able to work #7 for some time before it started to dry, plus I was able to put down a very thin, even coat without having the applicator soak up a bunch of product.

    I found the application and removal to be very easy when doing a panel at a time and wiping it off immediately. Could it be that the applicator(s) being used are making a difference? I know the instructions on the bottle state to use it either way, but.........
    Michael Stoops
    Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

    Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Mike-in-Orange
      This may be a bit for me to jump in on this thread, but I had my first experience with #7 last night at Meguiar's Wednesday Night Open Garage. I notice you're using either a cotton pad or MF towel to apply the #7 and the product is drying out on you rather quickly. I was using a foam applicator pad and was able to work #7 for some time before it started to dry, plus I was able to put down a very thin, even coat without having the applicator soak up a bunch of product.

      I found the application and removal to be very easy when doing a panel at a time and wiping it off immediately. Could it be that the applicator(s) being used are making a difference? I know the instructions on the bottle state to use it either way, but.........
      great point, i noticed that the mf was better than the cotton pad to start with but seemed to get a thick kind of scummy surface very quickly. like you said the bottle states to use either way but for example putting the nxt on with the supplied foam pad goes on like you said, very thin and easy. the foam also absorbs the product and holds in it's cell structure where the product just seemed to build up and get thick on the cotton or the mf.

      going back to product selection in this example i wonder if using the MPPC as a cleaner with minimal polishing oils followed by either the #7 or maybe #3 as a pure polish would have made working in the pure polish easier and result in the best of both worlds as far as working each product in as designed and to it's fullest potential?

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      • #18
        Originally posted by woodenshoes
        going back to product selection in this example i wonder if using the MPPC as a cleaner with minimal polishing oils followed by either the #7 or maybe #3 as a pure polish would have made working in the pure polish easier and result in the best of both worlds as far as working each product in as designed and to it's fullest potential?
        IMO you're only gonna get the finish to absorb a given amount of the polishing oils so which product you use first would be determined by other factors (need for chemical/abrasive cleaning, etc.). I consider the polishing oils in the pure polishes to be icing on the cake, not a fundamental ingredient like flour if you know what I mean.

        And there's only so much "working in" to be done with such products on b/c paint that's in good condition.


        #3 might provide more work time than the #7, and #5 is a somewhat different animal in that it seems OK to let #5 dry completely. Might be worth trying some of these other pure polishes to see if one works best for you. FWIW I'm a big fan of #5 whereas I only use #3/#7 on single stage.
        Practical Perfectionist

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Accumulator
          Minor correction: the #3 is functionally nonabrasive. It's sorta a different version of #7 that can be worked more aggressively without drying out.
          Whoops, wrong part number... thanks
          2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

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