Paint Cleaner Agressiveness

[OctaneGuy]

Great, you're the perfect person to answer my question. My greatest fear about using M66 with the rotary is this.

When I did test spots using M66 and M80 with a rotary on a dark finish, I noticed that any traces of a hologram or buffer swirl was non existant with M66 compared to M80. When I asked Mike Phillips about this, he said it's because M66 fills in those swirls, and that's why you don't see them.

That sounds fine to me, but logically that would seem to imply the buffer swirls are still there and will eventually show themselves once the wax breaks down, right?

I've just been concerned for the longevity of my work, while M66 seems like a really fast one step, I haven't quite found the best use for it for the work I do since so far while customers love my work, I don't have much repeat business to maintain things.

Any thoughts on that?

Richard

[Pete-FWA]

What Mike told you matches what I've seen with those two products when both run on the rotary.

I also agree with your conclusion that, eventually, the M66 will wear away and there will be holograms. The marks are far worse if you're running a more aggressive wool pad.

M66 is a fast one step, a good "wash and wax" product. It's one that is used in volume/production environments quite a bit. Examples: auto auctions, wholesalers, fleet reconditioning

From your writeups here, it seems that you're primarily concerned with top quality, swirl free finishes that last. I applaud that.
M66 + Rotary is not the product combination to use in that case, even for maintenance details on such quality jobs.

Where M66 might fit with a maintenance detail is using it with the W8006 on a DA machine. This won't leave you with holograms, but it will leave you with a nice finish. It's not nearly as long lasting as M20, M21, or M26, but it looks very good.

This depends on what a customer might want to pay or expect in longevity and clarity. The next step up would be DA with M80 and wax/sealant or some similar 2 step process. The case may be that, as the quality detailer you are, M66 doesn't come to play that often.

[Tim Lingor]

Originally posted by OctaneGuy
I just went to take a look. You're absolutely correct. I was confusing the directions for M83 for M80. M83 says machine applied, M80 says machine applied or by hand.

I did try it by hand last week on the Red Mustang, but it was primarily for removing things, not in place of scratchX.

Richard

Just to clarify...

Meguiar's M83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish can be applied by Rotary, DA, Orbital or by Hand. In the 80 series, only the #85 and #84 require a rotary for application.

As for the #66, I have used lots of it. It works best IMHO with the rotary. However, it can leave holograms depending on your rotary skill level. Therefore, following the #66/rotary with #66/DA would be a good idea.

Tim

[OctaneGuy]

Thanks Pete-FWA and Tim,

I got a chance to use M66 this past weekend on a truck. I was pressed for time (3 to 4 hours max), and the truck had a shoddy paint job and since it was primarily parked outdoors, I didn't think I needed to do much more than clay, remove all visible defects with rotary, then PC with M66.

The car looked much better of course, I will post some pics in the Show Off forum today. Nothing to brag about, just looked better after I was done.

Because this was my neighbors truck and he works for BMW, I didn't want to risk leaving buffer swirls at any point in the future which might cause him to say something bad. LOL.

I think I was most impressed with his mirrors. He loves his 4x4 and he recently did a race in Baja, and both sides of his truck and his mirrors had major scratches from driving through brush--but now that he's back, he hates seeing it all scratched up. I rotary buffed his metal mirrors with 83 and took out most of the scratches. LOL.

Richard

Originally posted by Pete-FWA
What Mike told you matches what I've seen with those two products when both run on the rotary.

I also agree with your conclusion that, eventually, the M66 will wear away and there will be holograms. The marks are far worse if you're running a more aggressive wool pad.

M66 is a fast one step, a good "wash and wax" product. It's one that is used in volume/production environments quite a bit. Examples: auto auctions, wholesalers, fleet reconditioning

From your writeups here, it seems that you're primarily concerned with top quality, swirl free finishes that last. I applaud that.
M66 + Rotary is not the product combination to use in that case, even for maintenance details on such quality jobs.

Where M66 might fit with a maintenance detail is using it with the W8006 on a DA machine. This won't leave you with holograms, but it will leave you with a nice finish. It's not nearly as long lasting as M20, M21, or M26, but it looks very good.

This depends on what a customer might want to pay or expect in longevity and clarity. The next step up would be DA with M80 and wax/sealant or some similar 2 step process. The case may be that, as the quality detailer you are, M66 doesn't come to play that often.

[Accident]

Now that I know for sure that I can use #80 or #83 by hand I might be able to work up enough money to buy it, but it will be a little while before I can afford it. My car broke down, owe my mechanic $150, but then again I've been working extra hours and we get paid this week, so I may be able to pick up a small bottle. Which one do you guys recommend, #80 or #83? I've heard people have had a lot of succes with the DACP, but with a PC. Anyway, thanks for the help and hijacking the thread , it was informative either way so that is one less question that I will be asking in the future.

[Tom Weed]

If your doing it by hand, why not scratchX followed by a pure polish such as #7 or DC-2, then your LSP. If swirls and scratches aren't too bad, you could use Color-X, then follow that with your LSP. I think the 80 series work best when used by machine.


Tom