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I'd seen a video of Paul Dalton using a USB microscope and a laptop to view the finish on the cars he would work on. I saw one cheap and ordered it.
The field of view is limited to less than an inch by inch, the LEDs flood that area with a bit too much light. You can see the swirls with the naked eye anyway, so I'm not sure of the usefulness of the microscope.
To be useful, you'd need to mark off an area scope it, buff it out and scope it again. It has to be the exact same area or you're wasting you time.
A paint thickness gauge would be more useful.
Anyway at 10 times magnification:
The white balance is altered a little to improve the contrast and a tiny bit of sharpening was done.
These are from the next car I'm doing and it is really trashed, as these photos show.
The field of view is limited to less than an inch by inch, the LEDs flood that area with a bit too much light. You can see the swirls with the naked eye anyway, so I'm not sure of the usefulness of the microscope.
To be useful, you'd need to mark off an area scope it, buff it out and scope it again. It has to be the exact same area or you're wasting you time.
A paint thickness gauge would be more useful.
Anyway at 10 times magnification:
The white balance is altered a little to improve the contrast and a tiny bit of sharpening was done.
These are from the next car I'm doing and it is really trashed, as these photos show.
of the exact same spot of course 
) Mount an infrared ‘pointer’ on a tripod and use it to ‘spot’ mark were the last reading was taken; once surface correction is completed check results. 
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