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Re: Has anyone used those $30 random-orbital buffers they sell at auto-parts stores?
Before I continue please keep in mind I have no experience with machine work in anyway other than what I have read. Since I started serious detailing 6 years ago I have always done my work by hand since it was only my cars-a black A6 and now a medium green Passat. Both clear coats were very hard and I never had swirl marks to contend with as I didn't let the dealers touch the cars when delivered and neither of them ever saw a commercial car wash. That being said I have been investigating the use of one of these inexpensive orbitals for the past few weeks to work on my wife's car -- a 97 Escort that I never had time to detail. Now that I'm retired I want to bring her car to some level of acceptability without spending alot of money.
Here are the recommendations I have read on this and other forums:
*Most don't feel these Traditional Orbitals are good for anything but waxing, but a few posters have used them with good results for correction. It seems to me that some of the more recent models by name brand manufactures may do better than some of the off brands that are much slower.
*Go with a 6" as this will allow better use in smaller areas of the car, require less product and you can convert the units to use the standard hook and loop polishing pads everyone uses on the PC, UDM and G100.
*Get a unit with as high an OPM as possible-this is why the Ryobi (4800 OPM) is attractive to me. You may also want to look at this Black and Decker (4400 OPM) unit http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html...t_adv_XPNT0069 (Sears aonline also has it but $10 more) as it has a handle which would make it easier to use if doing multiple cars.
*If you convert the unit to use the hook and loop pads, don't use anything more aggressive than polishing and finishing pads.
*Don't use any product more aggressive than Megs #83
*Stick with terry and foam bonnets. Some have said synthetic wool is also OK to use for more correction, but may mar the finish and use alot of product.
*Don't expect these units to hold up to the punishment of constant detailing if you are doing this as a business.
I hope this helps and would welcome any comments by those who really know more about these units and have had some experience. When I do my wife's car sometime in May I will post before and after pictures.
Before I continue please keep in mind I have no experience with machine work in anyway other than what I have read. Since I started serious detailing 6 years ago I have always done my work by hand since it was only my cars-a black A6 and now a medium green Passat. Both clear coats were very hard and I never had swirl marks to contend with as I didn't let the dealers touch the cars when delivered and neither of them ever saw a commercial car wash. That being said I have been investigating the use of one of these inexpensive orbitals for the past few weeks to work on my wife's car -- a 97 Escort that I never had time to detail. Now that I'm retired I want to bring her car to some level of acceptability without spending alot of money.
Here are the recommendations I have read on this and other forums:
*Most don't feel these Traditional Orbitals are good for anything but waxing, but a few posters have used them with good results for correction. It seems to me that some of the more recent models by name brand manufactures may do better than some of the off brands that are much slower.
*Go with a 6" as this will allow better use in smaller areas of the car, require less product and you can convert the units to use the standard hook and loop polishing pads everyone uses on the PC, UDM and G100.
*Get a unit with as high an OPM as possible-this is why the Ryobi (4800 OPM) is attractive to me. You may also want to look at this Black and Decker (4400 OPM) unit http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html...t_adv_XPNT0069 (Sears aonline also has it but $10 more) as it has a handle which would make it easier to use if doing multiple cars.
*If you convert the unit to use the hook and loop pads, don't use anything more aggressive than polishing and finishing pads.
*Don't use any product more aggressive than Megs #83
*Stick with terry and foam bonnets. Some have said synthetic wool is also OK to use for more correction, but may mar the finish and use alot of product.
*Don't expect these units to hold up to the punishment of constant detailing if you are doing this as a business.
I hope this helps and would welcome any comments by those who really know more about these units and have had some experience. When I do my wife's car sometime in May I will post before and after pictures.
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