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Those are the products that I think would be good, Sort of in that order, trying to make this as easy as possible, so if you guys could post it in step and choose a product, or post a new product, I'd love to see what you guys think/use, especially with the black cars, or dark colored cars, and fellow Mustang guys out there!

Thanks!

**Shawn T.** · Mar 20, 2010, 03:57 PM

Re: The Ultimate Detail

First question, will you be working by hand or machine?

Spider webs are scratches, but are sometimes referred to as micro-marrign becasue they are so shallow. The deep scratcyhes may be in there permanently if they cut through the clear or too far into the clear. If they can be felt with your fingernail then are usually too deep to be repaired. If you do remove these kind of scratches then you may either go through the clear or leave the clear coat too thin in that area.

If there are only spider webs then I would use a product like Swirlx first, and if that is not strong enough then move up to Ultimate Compound. Remember, if working by hand, I would stick with the faom applicator pads. Terry cloth or microfiber may be too aggresive. These can be used for negelcted finishes but since you say the finish is in good shape I would stick with the foam applicator as it will not mar the finish.

The list of products will be in the next post.

**Shawn T.** · Mar 20, 2010, 03:57 PM

Re: The Ultimate Detail

Paint Cleaners: Swirlx and Ultimate Compund; possibly Scratchx but not totally necessary. Order of aggressiveness from least to greatest: SwirlX, SctratchX 2.0, Ultimate Compund. Be sure to use ScratchX 2.0 and not the original formula as the original is weaker than SwirlX.

Polishes: Either Deep Crystal Polish or M07 show car glaze. They are both very good and will add great depth to the paint.

Microfibers: YOU CAN NEVER HAVE TOO MANY!!!!! I would recommend about 12 to begin with. Walmart has decent quality ones but you could always go with the incredible Supreme Shine Microfiber from Megs.

Wax: I like Gold Class, only tried NXT once and it was very good also. It really comes down to a personal preference. If you plan on applying the wax by hand, I recommend the paste but for machine application I suggest the liquid. The differences in the paste and liquid versions come down to a personal preferences.

Cleaner Wax: Cleaner Wax (A12), the consumer version, is very good and does a nice job of providing a little more muscle to remove slight oxidation and very mild swirls. Colorx is a much stronger cleaner wax, comparable to M06 Cleaner Wax. I have yet to use it but I have heard nothing but good reviews. These can be used if you are running low on time and still want to mildly correct, polish and wax the car.

Dressings: I like M40 Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner Conditioner for tires and some exterior trim. I also like Supreme Shine Protectant for tires and outdoor trim. Natural Shine Protectant is great for interiors and for people who prefer a low gloss on their trim pieces.

Quick Detail Spray: Quik Detailer is great and does a fantastic job. Ultimate Quik Detailer is equivalent to M135 as it utilizes the hydrophobic technology (the product is “afraid” of the water and therefore the water will either bead or sheet off the car).

Spray Wax: Quik Wax is a good product but Ultimate Quik Wax is even better. You can use these after you wash the car in order to boost the already established wax. This should really be used as a booster wax more than the base layer but it will work great either way

**Stang18** · Mar 20, 2010, 04:26 PM

Re: The Ultimate Detail

Originally posted by coopers23 View Post

First question, will you be working by hand or machine?

Spider webs are scratches, but are sometimes referred to as micro-marrign becasue they are so shallow. The deep scratcyhes may be in there permanently if they cut through the clear or too far into the clear. If they can be felt with your fingernail then are usually too deep to be repaired. If you do remove these kind of scratches then you may either go through the clear or leave the clear coat too thin in that area.

If there are only spider webs then I would use a product like Swirlx first, and if that is not strong enough then move up to Ultimate Compound. Remember, if working by hand, I would stick with the faom applicator pads. Terry cloth or microfiber may be too aggresive. These can be used for negelcted finishes but since you say the finish is in good shape I would stick with the foam applicator as it will not mar the finish.

The list of products will be in the next post.

Thanks for your posts. I have a Professional High Speed Black N Decker Polisher/Buffer. Right now I have a wool pad on it.

I also have Two small 6" buffers that work really well (from advance)

And I have Two great working hands!

I actually did use the Ultimate Compound, then the NXT 2.0 and they were there, Is it because I used a microfiber to finely detail it and wipe off. I usually wash the car after I wax to get the wax inbetween cracks out.

Thanks again! +1

**Shawn T.** · Mar 20, 2010, 06:02 PM

Re: The Ultimate Detail

When you say "they were there", do you mean the spider webbing? It could take up to 4 or 5 applications of UC to see a considerbale difference if working by hand. If using a Dual Action Polisher then it could be only 1 application. I would not use UC with the high speed rotary you have though as it was not designed for rotary (I don't think).

Furthermore, I think the wool pad will be overkill on this job anyway. I have not used a rotary but I think a 7207 foam cutting pad or a 8207 polishing pad would work better. Once again though, I would not use the consumer products with the high speed rotary.

Also, what do you mean by "I used a microfiber to finely detail it and wipe off?" Are you trying to say that you applied with a microfiber towel and then wiped off with another microfiber? Sorry, but I am trying to figure out what you are saying so I can help out as accurately as possible.

BTW, I bold the questions just so that you can tell where the questions are. I did this in an email one time and someone asked me why I was yelling at them? lol

**Stang18** · Mar 20, 2010, 07:00 PM

Re: The Ultimate Detail

Originally posted by coopers23 View Post

When you say "they were there", do you mean the spider webbing? It could take up to 4 or 5 applications of UC to see a considerbale difference if working by hand. If using a Dual Action Polisher then it could be only 1 application. I would not use UC with the high speed rotary you have though as it was not designed for rotary (I don't think).

Furthermore, I think the wool pad will be overkill on this job anyway. I have not used a rotary but I think a 7207 foam cutting pad or a 8207 polishing pad would work better. Once again though, I would not use the consumer products with the high speed rotary.

Also, what do you mean by "I used a microfiber to finely detail it and wipe off?" Are you trying to say that you applied with a microfiber towel and then wiped off with another microfiber? Sorry, but I am trying to figure out what you are saying so I can help out as accurately as possible.

BTW, I bold the questions just so that you can tell where the questions are. I did this in an email one time and someone asked me why I was yelling at them? lol

Yes I mean the spiderwebbing.

After washing the car and drying, I use a microfiber to remove any other imperfections or smudges.

You're fine haha, I understand, I do the same.

**Shawn T.** · Mar 20, 2010, 08:00 PM

Re: The Ultimate Detail

You could try the UC with one of the 6" orbitals that you have. Some people have had luck with the orbitals and the new SMAT prodcucts. Just remember to work the area thoroughly whether using the orbital or your hand. Once again, it may take several applications depending on the swirling, hardness of paint, technique, temperature, etc.

You are using a clean microfiber, yes? Make sure you do not dry your microfiber with fabric softener or clean them with any detergent that has fabric softener as this may actually streak and sometimes scratch the finish. I learned this the hard way........

You do all of this using the products you have selected and you should be good to go!

**Shawn T.** · Mar 20, 2010, 08:02 PM

Re: The Ultimate Detail

Remember to use the Swirlx first though on a test spot. Use masking tape and tape off about a 1' X 1' area and do every step of the process to that one area before moving on to see how the reults the process will yield. UC is for after Swirlx has been tested. Some paints repsond better to Swirlx than UC. It all depends.

**searle** · Mar 21, 2010, 05:23 PM

Re: The Ultimate Detail

Be really careful with the wool pad. That can essentially "magnify" the cutting ability of your cleaner (swirlX) or compound (UC). You need to be especially careful to keep it clean and grit-free (wool will hold and hide grit particles) else you can introduce as much trouble as you are removing. As said above, you are probably better off with a foam pad for initial defect removal, and a polishing pad for fine-polish (if necessary) and certainly polishing pad for any glaze or wax/sealants.

**Michael Stoops** · Mar 22, 2010, 08:57 AM

Re: The Ultimate Detail

If you have only light swirls on a black car, then a wool pad on a rotary is likely to cause more problems than it solves, and is probably total overkill to achieve your goals.

We would suggest you read through the 5-Step Paint Care Cycle and then This Thread to see what a total novice was able to accomplish on very hard paint using the techniques and products outlined in the 5 Step.

**Stang18** · Mar 27, 2010, 08:25 AM

Re: The Ultimate Detail

Originally posted by Michael Stoops View Post

If you have only light swirls on a black car, then a wool pad on a rotary is likely to cause more problems than it solves, and is probably total overkill to achieve your goals.

We would suggest you read through the 5-Step Paint Care Cycle and then This Thread to see what a total novice was able to accomplish on very hard paint using the techniques and products outlined in the 5 Step.

Wow thats awesome and perfect, exactly what I was looking for, thanks a lot!

Now, I have one last question, hopefully.. I have an old (still works great) Black n Decker, high powered professional polisher/buffer, my dad had it when he was in the detailing business a while back, it has a wool pad on it, and it is one of those that you have to use a wrench to take the pad out, I obviously don't want to use the wool pad, but I was wondering if I could use it during this detail, I also have two 6" buffers that basically vibrate and spin, but the pads get dirty easily, but IMO they work great! Thanks again!

**Stang18** · Mar 27, 2010, 08:35 AM

Re: The Ultimate Detail

Originally posted by Michael Stoops View Post

If you have only light swirls on a black car, then a wool pad on a rotary is likely to cause more problems than it solves, and is probably total overkill to achieve your goals.

We would suggest you read through the 5-Step Paint Care Cycle and then This Thread to see what a total novice was able to accomplish on very hard paint using the techniques and products outlined in the 5 Step.

Awesome, thanks a lot. I do however have two more questions..

I can change the wool pad, so I could buy some of Meguiars pads, I saw some in a store that would work since this one uses a bolt to secure the pad. Would that work well, obviously It would be easier than by hand, I can't afford the G110 or another one of the nice D/A

But I also have a small 6" rotary buffer/polisher, its small, I bought it from Advance, and IMO it works pretty well.. Only downside is that the pads get dirty quickly.. but oh well..

Second,

This was in step 4 of that thread.

Now it's time to preserve that high gloss finish by applying a wax or sealant. "Sealant" is really just a fancy word for a wax product that is fully synthetic. That is to say that all the ingredients are man made and the product doesn't actually contain any natural wax. Sealants utilize the lastest technology in paint protection and will generally outlast a carnauba based wax. Some people still prefer the look and feel of a carnauba wax, so Meguiar's continues to offer these products. Which you choose is, to some degree, personal preference.

Some people I've read they used a wax, then the sealant, is that possible or do you not recommend it? Thanks again!

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