Plastx questions.

[CieraSL]

Re: Plastx questions.

I was talking about the PlastX. Mine says Micro abrasive technology and not Super Micro Abrasive Technology.

According to both ADS and Meguiar's Direct, Plast X uses Microscopic Diminishing Abrasive Technology (MDAT), not SMAT. I'm not sure if there are products that have MDAT technology or if it is exclusive to Plast X. In my eyes, this makes it completely different from products like UC and Swirl X in how the product does or does not break down.

[Mike Pennington]

Re: Plastx questions.

Lets see if we can clear things up...

PlastX has not changed formulation, however, it has had a label change...

Please don't confuse Micro Abrasive Technology (MAT) or micro abrasives with Super Micro Abrasive Technology (SMAT). Micro abrasives or Micro Abrasive Technology does not automatically mean it is NOT a diminishing abrasive technology (DAT) product. It could be either diminishing or non diminishing.

When we refer to our Super Micro Abrasive Technology (SMAT), we are referring to products that definitely do not diminish like our DAT.

Most of the time, PlastX will be your best bet for an OTC product that is readily available, safe, and designed specifically for clear plastics

If and when PlastX does not work by hand, then we recommend stepping up and using our Headlight Restoration Kit.

That said, if M105 is working better for you on your headlights, it is ok to use it

[Anomaly]

Re: Plastx questions.

Several posts in this thread claiming Plastx is more aggressive than UC. Well I can tell you with total certainty that was not the case with my old bottle of Plastx. So I would like to hear from a product expert if there has been a change in Plastx.

When it comes to plastic I have always been able to treat it like paint. What I mean by that is I use the same products on plastic that I use on paint. Compounds to correct and polishes to clean and sealants to seal. I have been doing this for years and many pros I know do the same.

Edit: Mike was replying while I was posting so he answered the questions thanks.

[Mike Pennington]

Re: Plastx questions.



Just keep in mind, not everyone has access to the our "Pro" line or desire to purchase a 32 ounce or gallon of product to use, so the consumer products are the solution to many peoples challenges.

In cases like yours, where you are happy using the "Pro" line, we simply encourage you to continue doing so because we also know there are many people like you

[Tuck91]

Re: Plastx questions.

Lets see if we can clear things up...

PlastX has not changed formulation, however, it has had a label change...

Please don't confuse Micro Abrasive Technology (MAT) or micro abrasives with Super Micro Abrasive Technology (SMAT). Micro abrasives or Micro Abrasive Technology does not automatically mean it is NOT a diminishing abrasive technology (DAT) product. It could be either diminishing or non diminishing.

When we refer to our Super Micro Abrasive Technology (SMAT), we are referring to products that definitely do not diminish like our DAT.

Most of the time, PlastX will be your best bet for an OTC product that is readily available, safe, and designed specifically for clear plastics

If and when PlastX does not work by hand, then we recommend stepping up and using our Headlight Restoration Kit.

That said, if M105 is working better for you on your headlights, it is ok to use it

Thanks for clearing that up, Mike.

[Tim Lingor]

Re: Plastx questions.

You are right, switching from Diminishing abrasives to micro abrasives could affect the application requirement of the product. While my bottle of PlastX, which contains micro abrasives, is able to correct some major defects, it leaves behind some very small swirls that need to be removed using either UC or SwirlX. In fact, I have reported a few months ago that M105 coupled with a cutting pad was able to finish smoother and nicer than PlastX with a polishing pad. PlastX left a lot of swirls while M105 none. I took some pictures to showcase my discovery, but the swirls were too fine to be shown in the pictures. At that point I decided to just end the discussion there. Note that the swirls induced by PlastX are easily corrected with something like SwirlX or UC.

If you are getting micro-marring then you are simply not using PlastX correctly. Please do not use the product a couple of times and then make a 'generalized' statement like that as people will be mislead.

PlastX needs to be worked in until it is basically gone (but not a dry buff). If you use a mf applicator instead of foam for example, and work the product on your gauge cluster until it is just about gone, there will be NO mirco-marring of any kind. If you are getting some, then as I said, you are using it incorrectly. Believe me, if you try M105 on your gauge cluster, it *may* haze it terribly! Hence why PlastX exits as it is designed to work on clear plastics.

Same goes for your headlights. When PlastX was first introduced and I did a review on it (many years ago), it was touted for hand application. I was the one who decided to test it with the DA and even the rotary (not recommeded as I found out the hard way) to see what would happen. With the DA and a polishing pad, PlastX will remove marring on plastics quite easily. However, again, it must be worked correctly or you will get hazing, just like a person who does not work M105 correctly will get. Some plastics will finish out nicely while others may need to use a foam finishing pad for final polishing. It all depends on that plastic.

So, just like paint, you must tailor you usage and application method depending upon how the results turn out on those specific plastics used on your vehicle. Further, because headlights will have a UV coating on them, some of the UV coatings may be more susceptible to marring where as others are not. So again, this is where making generalizations about a product leaving marring is incorrect. Moreover, this is why when I test products, I try them on some many different surfaces in order to get a better idea of its characteristics.

I apologize if it seems I am coming down on you as that is not the intenet. After doing this for so many years, I have had to help many many people who have posted about a product not working or a product that leaves hazing etc only for them to discover that they were not using it correctly. It takes time to learn how to use any product to its fullest ability.

That is why sites like Meguiar's Online exist so that people can learn how to get the most from their products when used correctly!

Tim

[Nappers]

Re: Plastx questions.

I've used PlastX on numerous occasions.....

If used right, it doesn't produce any hazing in my experience, one using a terry cloth and too much elbow grease or go crazy with a rotary and wool pad may cause it.....

I've been using PlastX on my taillights, headlights, CD's, DVD's, Game Discs, Cell phone displays, watches, you name it.

I use a Meguiar's yellow applicator, some elbow grease and work it in as Tim mentioned and stuff comes out awesome. If I need something stronger, I start out with M105 and finish with PlastX as M105 can lead to hazing on some plastics I've worked on. I have used PlastX with the DA and it works great, I use a yellow pad and on around speed 4-5, doesn't take much. I have used a rotary but you have to be very careful as the rotary can cause much heat on plastics and melt your plastic. I used the second speed or so on my rotary and a yellow pad and I mounted the rotary in a vise OR mounted the object in a vise (carefully) and proceeded to buff and barely touching the surface of the plastic and checked frequently for heat build up. This is excessive way to do it really....

Some elbow grease and work the product in works great. PlastX is my go to for any plastic.

Another occasion, I mounted my headlights in a vice and wet sanded them as yellowing appeared and PlastX or M105 wasn't budging and the protective film on the headlight appeared to have yellowed and needed to be removed. I used 2000 grit paper followed by 4000 grit paper on my G100 and proceeded to use M105 and finished with PlastX for the final polish. I did not remove all of the protective coating and the coating that yellowed came off without incident and the headlights turned out great. The taillights on our Yukon turned out beautiful with PlastX, they fade quickly though. But for a 10 year old vehicle, hold their own.

Any gauge cluster plastics have turned out great, obviously deep scratches won't come out easily but on slight scratches and clearing them up, works great and I've only used PlastX on lenses. PlastX also works great on plastic mirrors, as the mirror part is behind the plastic and you are polishing the plastic surface, not the mirrored part itself.

Word of caution though, I used PlastX on the reflector of my DRL and it removed the mirrored part, it was either due to too much heat built up from original bulb being to hot and causing damage or the PlastX removed it. Not sure and I did it on a test spot and did not do further damage.

I use PlastX as normal routine maintenance yearly and as needed.

I have only used about a bottle since I started this madness around '06 and have an unopened bottle waiting for me. It don't take much and is easily used by hand.

M105 is a great tool as well but it is used for removing sanding marks from paint and although proving to be a great tool on plastics and metals, just remember what it's original intent is and do a test spot and start with least aggressive first.

Sorry if this seems jumbled, I'm at work

[the_invisible]

Re: Plastx questions.

I borrowed a picture from another thread to demonstrate what I am talking about:
Note the arrow. Again, like I mentioned previously, they are minor swirls... not micro-marring. The headlights finish extremely nice. But following with the application of SwirlX removes the swirls even further. I am not particularly concerned with those swirls as they are extremely minor. Whether I've applied the products correctly or not, well... honestly... I think I followed the instructions fully. I tried different methods of applications, not just a couple times. Anyway, thanks for the reminder, nonetheless.

After wiping with diluted alcohol solution:


Another picture I borrowed from the review page for reference:


I've never applied PlastX on interior pieces as they all seem very fragile. The only place where I've used PlastX is headlights. The headlights are where I believe PlastX truly shines. Again, with an application of SwirlX or Ultimate Compound further improves the finishing product. That's simply my point.


And regarding using M105 on headlights, that was what Rick from ADS suggests. And I think it works rather well. Again, I have had no experience with M105 on interior trims.

[Mike Pennington]

Re: Plastx questions.



Let's all keep this thread positive and on track please....