Tweet
#9 has been eclipsed in many detailers' tool kits by newer products and by better marketed products. It is an older product, and it is a professional product; as such, it makes few concessions to "ease of use". But this workhorse, available at places like Pep Boys, still has a place in the arsenal. It does have some quirks that need to be mastered to maximize its efficiency; the secret is controlling liquid buildup in the pads.
I used a Cyclo and a green Cyclo pad; that is essentially equal to a G100 at setting 4 with a yellow pad.
The bottle says #9 is a "3" in strength, but I'd say it's closer to a 2. It breaks down pretty quickly; I'd say in about a minute (or less) the diminishing abrasives are done.
According to my sources, the carrying agent in #9 is #7. So at this point you have a pad full of #7, and you have to put more #9 on the pad to work the next panel. After a couple panels, your pads are pretty saturated! What I did was press a terry towel against the pad to draw the liquid out. I didn't want to rinse out the pads because #9 is "wet" enough already.
It should be removed wet. Removal of the product is similar to that of #7. The best method is a mf towel in each hand, and work quickly.
The product works as advertised. It is definitely for finishes in excellent condition that need minor swirl correction; it will not correct major swirls and spiderwebs, but there are products out there that are intended for that. One advantage of #9 is that it does leave behind the #7; you can go right from #9 to #26, or your LSP of choice.
If I were to do this again, I would use a finishing pad rather than a polishing pad. When I pulled the car out into the sun, I saw what I recognized as pad marks; they were minor, and your average person wouldn't see them, but I did. What this tells me is that the pad is stronger than the product!
There it is. Llike I said, many people have turned to other products, but #9 does the same thing as any of those, and for people who learn to master its application it is available locally and inexpensively.
Tom
I used a Cyclo and a green Cyclo pad; that is essentially equal to a G100 at setting 4 with a yellow pad.
The bottle says #9 is a "3" in strength, but I'd say it's closer to a 2. It breaks down pretty quickly; I'd say in about a minute (or less) the diminishing abrasives are done.
According to my sources, the carrying agent in #9 is #7. So at this point you have a pad full of #7, and you have to put more #9 on the pad to work the next panel. After a couple panels, your pads are pretty saturated! What I did was press a terry towel against the pad to draw the liquid out. I didn't want to rinse out the pads because #9 is "wet" enough already.
It should be removed wet. Removal of the product is similar to that of #7. The best method is a mf towel in each hand, and work quickly.
The product works as advertised. It is definitely for finishes in excellent condition that need minor swirl correction; it will not correct major swirls and spiderwebs, but there are products out there that are intended for that. One advantage of #9 is that it does leave behind the #7; you can go right from #9 to #26, or your LSP of choice.
If I were to do this again, I would use a finishing pad rather than a polishing pad. When I pulled the car out into the sun, I saw what I recognized as pad marks; they were minor, and your average person wouldn't see them, but I did. What this tells me is that the pad is stronger than the product!
There it is. Llike I said, many people have turned to other products, but #9 does the same thing as any of those, and for people who learn to master its application it is available locally and inexpensively.
Tom
Comment