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Hi guys. Has anyone tried adding a little something like M7 to M105 to extend work time a little? I tried M105 on a trunk to see how it works. I just can't get enough passes to get the results I'm looking for. Most people love M105 but I can't get it to work for me. It dries way to quick. I'm working with a primed yellow pad on my rotary at around 1200-1500. I might add just a tiny bit to an empty bottle just to try. Can't hurt but just curious to see if anyone tried it ready. Since I have a bunch of M7 I though why not. Thank. Oh yeah, I'm still using the old version. I know the new version is supposed to be DA approved and the work time is supposed to be longer but is the work time really that much longer? Thanks again.
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Re: M105
Why not just lightly squirt the pad with a bit of QD?Jim
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Re: M105
I forgot to mention that I did try that but it didn't do much. I tried Ultimate quick detailer and Last touch. I mean it helped a tiny bit but not enough and honestly i'd rather not stop to spray something if I don't have to. Especially with the rotary.Originally posted by jfelbab View PostComment
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Re: M105
Some additional suggestions... Less speed and less pressure are required of SMAT technology, perhaps you can lighten up a bit. Cool paint is also manditory. Lastly, use a PC and you will see less dusting and longer working time. You may even find that you get a superior finish. I've not used my Makita in a long, long time since SMAT and microfiber pads became available.Jim
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Re: M105
you don't need to add anything to 105.
I can tell you right now your useing way to much.
I start with about a nickels worth of product and ad very little once the pad is primed.
Some people spray it with water but that makes a mess and screws it all up.
105 is a compound and not a wax so it doesn't work like a wax.
It is dry, you'll just have to learn how to use it.
Here's what a panle should look like after you use 105
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Re: M105
Thanks for the advice guys. I really don't think I'm using to much. I basically use it like any other compound. Once the pad is primed, I few pea sized drops is all I use. Actually, when I used an extra drop I can get a tad more work time but if I'm not careful I get sling. And yes you definitely don't want to use a compound or polish like a wax or sealant.
I haven't given up on it yet. It is a very well liked compound. I prefer to compound and polish with my rotary and finish with a DA but I might get the new version M105 to see if I like it better. Thanks again guys.Comment
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Re: M105
How do you like MF pads? I keep wanting to try them but I haven't yet. Old school I guess with my old foam pads.Originally posted by jfelbab View PostComment
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Re: M105
MF pads are my first choice. They cut very quickly and finish up well. I still occasionally use foam for jeweling darker colors but the MF pads are easily my favorite. They require less working time and do well with the 105/205 pair as well as the D300/D301 product they were designed for. If you try them be sure to use the backing plate Meguiar's makes for them and these pads require cleaning after each pass or two. Air works bet for cleaning them.Jim
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Re: M105
Sound like to much product to me, and it sound like you know what your doing.Originally posted by acsuppa View Post
MF pads are the sh it!
The whole DAMF System is now my goto on most cars.
Works great with very little knowledge.
I only use foam for wax and special cutting problems.Comment
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Re: M105
Looks like I really need to give MF pads a shot. I'll have to look for a kit or something. I've read quite a few great reviews from people saying they put down their rotary for their DA with MF pads. I never believed a MF pad could finish down without hazing.
I'm going to try to find a little time to play with M105 again. Start fresh with a clean panel and pad.Comment
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Re: M105
I'd suggest buying the 5" pads, not the 6" to get started, and last I looked the kit of two cutting and two finishing pads with D300/301 was stocked at my local Walmart.
The cutting pad can leave a slight haze on dark colored soft paint but the finishing pad & polish is usually all I need for final finishing most cars. IMO, the MF system is a game changer in that they are easily twice as fast as the best foam pads IME. I can't say enough good things about it.
Only warning is that you need to lighten up your pressure and shorten up your polishing with these pads as they cut so quickly and effectively, and besides keeping them really clean while polishing, you also need to use the proper backing plate or the pads may overheat and sepearate.Jim
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Re: M105
[QUOTE=jfelbab;537042]I'd suggest buying the 5" pads, not the 6" to get started, and last I looked the kit of two cutting and two finishing pads with D300/301 was stocked at my local Walmart.
The cutting pad can leave a slight haze on dark colored soft paint but the finishing pad & polish is usually all I need for final finishing most cars. IMO, the MF system is a game changer in that they are easily twice as fast as the best foam pads IME. I can't say enough good things about it.
Only warning is that you need to lighten up your pressure and shorten up your polishing with these pads as they cut so quickly and effectively, and besides keeping them really clean while polishing, you also need to use the proper backing plate or the pads may overheat and sepearate.[/
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Cool. I never saw anything like that around here at Walmart. I'll most likely order direct from Meguirs or ADS. Maybe Amazon. But yeah I'll definitely have to get some.
I tried some M105 on a panel again today. First with a yellow pad on my rotary then I cleaned the pad and put it on my DA. It pretty much sucked on the rotary. Very dusty and slightly difficult to move. Very disappointed once again. With the DA, I had better luck. A lot more work and the dusting was little to none. The result was pretty good. The test panel I used was in rough shape with a lot of clear coat failure so it wasn't a very good panel. I'll keep trying. Thanks.Comment
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Re: M105
M105 used on older or 'drier' paint can react like you've seen in this experience. You may simply need a product with more oils in a case like this. I'd try M83 or M80 and see how they react. IME they work better in these cases.
I LOVE M105, but some older or neglected paints sometimes need a different approach.Comment
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Re: M105
M80 has been my go to for many years now. Love the stuff. Occasionaly I have the need for something a little more aggressive. That's why M105 interested me. More bite but finishes real nice. I have a bottle of M83 that I used on a few vehicles before but never liked it. For me it dried up pretty quick on me. Kind of like M105. But yes I do like products with a little more oils in them. Thanks.Originally posted by Selectchoice View PostComment
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Re: M105
I forgot to ask you what buffer and pad you use. Thanks.Originally posted by Please Wash Me Detailing View Postyou don't need to add anything to 105.
I can tell you right now your useing way to much.
I start with about a nickels worth of product and ad very little once the pad is primed.
Some people spray it with water but that makes a mess and screws it all up.
105 is a compound and not a wax so it doesn't work like a wax.
It is dry, you'll just have to learn how to use it.
Here's what a panle should look like after you use 105
I checked out your website the other day. very nice!Comment
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