advice on mirror glaze m84?

[danny-wax]

hello everyone im thinking of buying some mirror glaze m84 power compound cleaner and was wondering if anyone has used it and what there thoughts are of it? i have ultimate compound but wanted to add something different to my compound arsenal i would go for 105 but prices are quite steep and m84 seems to be in my price range for now. will be used on couple of hondas first of all (mine and friends) as mine has what looks like scratches under the laquer/clearcoat and my friends car has swirls all over the car. what pads are good for use with uc/up and m84? im not very good with the code names for pads still in the learning process.

[danny-wax]

Re: advice on mirror glaze m84?

anyone?

[Matt Cardoni]

I started out using M84 as my go-to compound. I was very good in its time. Personally I don't use it anymore. I have found that M105 with a MF disc using a HF DA polisher cuts just as well as 84, foam cutting pad, and a rotary while finishing MUCH better. 105 can be easily finished off with M205 while I always needed to follow 84 with M83 then M82, 80, or 09.
The only reason I could still see using the 80 series anymore is for oxidized single stage paint where 105 tends to get sucked in and cake up. Lately I've found that D300 tends to tackle those finishes well though.
To me, the newer SMAT products are definitely worth the extra cost over the older 80 series. The other thing to take into account is that from what I have seen, less product is used with SMAT and a DA vs the 80 series and a rotary.
Also note that M105 is a available in an 8 oz bottle for about $10 if you want to try it and D300 is available in a 16 oz bottle for about $20.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: advice on mirror glaze m84?

Are you using a rotary or DA buffer? If DA then you should probably stay away from M84 as it's not really DA compatible. The abrasives in it are pretty aggressive and usually require the power of a rotary to break them down. Also, due to the nature of the abrasives, when coupled with a DA on soft paint (which is pretty common with Honda vehicles) there is a very high probability of severe hazing of the paint.

If you're using a DA and looking for an alternative to UC then you might want to consider the DA Microfiber Correction System. If you don't want to make the move to microfiber pads, even D300 Microfiber Correction Compound makes a great alternative on foam pads, and that combo seems to work quite well on softer paints. D300 is also very reasonably priced so it should be an easy add to your arsenal.

One other thing - you mentioned that your car appears to have scratches that are actually under the clear coat? Has the car been repainted? It's quite rare to see anything like this in a factory paint job, but unfortunately all too common with quick resprays. What usually happens is coarse sanding of the primer, and a subsequent shrinking of the primer after the painting is fully completed. This then reveals those coarser sanding marks, but since they are in the primer and not the clear, there's just no way to buff them out - the paint must be stripped and the surface resprayed in order to correct this. If your car is still wearing its factory paint, then odds are there is something else going on here that may appear to be under the clear but is actually in it.

[danny-wax]

Re: advice on mirror glaze m84?

I started out using M84 as my go-to compound. I was very good in its time. Personally I don't use it anymore. I have found that M105 with a MF disc using a HF DA polisher cuts just as well as 84, foam cutting pad, and a rotary while finishing MUCH better. 105 can be easily finished off with M205 while I always needed to follow 84 with M83 then M82, 80, or 09.
The only reason I could still see using the 80 series anymore is for oxidized single stage paint where 105 tends to get sucked in and cake up. Lately I've found that D300 tends to tackle those finishes well though.
To me, the newer SMAT products are definitely worth the extra cost over the older 80 series. The other thing to take into account is that from what I have seen, less product is used with SMAT and a DA vs the 80 series and a rotary.
Also note that M105 is a available in an 8 oz bottle for about $10 if you want to try it and D300 is available in a 16 oz bottle for about $20.

thank you for ur reply and very helpfull

[danny-wax]

Re: advice on mirror glaze m84?

Are you using a rotary or DA buffer? If DA then you should probably stay away from M84 as it's not really DA compatible. The abrasives in it are pretty aggressive and usually require the power of a rotary to break them down. Also, due to the nature of the abrasives, when coupled with a DA on soft paint (which is pretty common with Honda vehicles) there is a very high probability of severe hazing of the paint.

If you're using a DA and looking for an alternative to UC then you might want to consider the DA Microfiber Correction System. If you don't want to make the move to microfiber pads, even D300 Microfiber Correction Compound makes a great alternative on foam pads, and that combo seems to work quite well on softer paints. D300 is also very reasonably priced so it should be an easy add to your arsenal.

One other thing - you mentioned that your car appears to have scratches that are actually under the clear coat? Has the car been repainted? It's quite rare to see anything like this in a factory paint job, but unfortunately all too common with quick resprays. What usually happens is coarse sanding of the primer, and a subsequent shrinking of the primer after the painting is fully completed. This then reveals those coarser sanding marks, but since they are in the primer and not the clear, there's just no way to buff them out - the paint must be stripped and the surface resprayed in order to correct this. If your car is still wearing its factory paint, then odds are there is something else going on here that may appear to be under the clear but is actually in it.

hi michael i have a silverline rotary that i purchased a while ago. i have noticed on my door that looks be shiny stretch marks (only way i could describe it) and raised pitting aswell i will try and get pictures of these defects and see if you are able to shine any light on them. plus i my bonnet has orange peel aswell im getting the feeling that im in for a long and painful correction on my car but i want to learn.