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M105 and working area

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  • M105 and working area

    Dusting and flash dry are always a problem with M105. Somehow I have no problem with MF pad and M105, but when it comes to combination of foam pad and M105. It almost always gum up on me. I want how large area do you guys work with M105?

  • #2
    Re: M105 and working area

    1. Yes.. that will be an issue. Hard to go much under a foot square and still be moving the machine around.

    2. What are you working on? Ult. Compound is usually the better choice for DA and foam pad use.
    2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

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    • #3
      Re: M105 and working area

      Just doing experiment when I got some spare time. I just cant work it out with a lc light cutting pad(thats the only foam pad I use with M105). I have no issue with MF disc or surbuf pad. Weird. Maybe soak up all the lubricant?

      Thanks for answering.

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      • #4
        Re: M105 and working area

        Yes, #105 is lower on lubricants. More designed for rotary use and fresher paints.
        2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

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        • #5
          Re: M105 and working area

          How much product are you using when running M105 on foam pads versus doing so on microfiber pads? If you're priming the micofiber pad and then using just a couple drops of M105 (as is customary with microfiber pads) but using a full "X" of product on foam pads (customary with those pads) then that should tell you something: less is more! It's easy to use too much M105 on foam, especially with a DA, so priming a foam pad and then using just three of four drops of M105 should fix much of that dusting/gumming issue.
          Michael Stoops
          Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

          Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

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          • #6
            Re: M105 and working area

            Thanks for answering. I work 2x2( definitely too large for DA)and there is a theory hebind microfiber disc. Maybe it just works on me but not the others. Microfiber disc is made of microfiber. I use it as a microfiber bonnet at the end of buffing( or what it calls dry buffing), so it wipes off product eventually. On the other hand, foam pads cant serve the same purpose as mf discs.

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            • #7
              Re: M105 and working area

              Not sure if we're really understand your last comments here. Are you saying that after buffing with M105 on a foam pad you go over the area with a dry microfiber pad to dry buff the area and remove any product residue? Or are you putting an actual microfiber bonnet over the foam to pull off any difficult to remove residue? We would expect that this would lead to a lot of micro marring, especially with the microfiber pad. That pad is very aggressive and coupled with the DA movements and no lubrication of the surface, we just can't see this being a good idea. Yes, we use microfiber towels to wipe off product because it's so good at grabbing onto this sort of material, and it's very gentle on the paint. But when configured for use as a microfiber polishing pad, it's a very aggressive material. But of course, if you say it's working for you, then..........

              Again, if you prime a foam pad and then really reduce the amount of M105 you use it will greatly reduce dusting and the potential for product gumming up or drying out on the surface.
              Michael Stoops
              Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

              Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: M105 and working area

                You may want to do some searching on something called the Kevin Brown Method or KBM, which is a system of priming the pad for use with M105. You can also experiment with misting a little water from a spray bottle onto your working surface, which gives you less dusting and more working time.

                My advice for all my friends who have struggled with M105 is to just use Ultimate Compound instead. UC is cheaper, has more lubricants in it (so it doesn't dry out as fast, you get more buffing time), and dusts less. There are very few defects you can't remove with UC.

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                • #9
                  Re: M105 and working area

                  Hey Michael, hasn't M105 been reformulated to work better with a DA? Per ethereal suggestion, I did some intensive reading to the KBM and honestly it was well worth the time. His pad priming method is outstanding!. Here's the link to his PDF - takes a few seconds to load so be patient. http://www.buffdaddy.com/files/15195...g_Agents-1.pdf . With that said, Mr Stoops suggested that I used the Ultimate Compound / M#205 and I've gotten fantastic results. Much will depend on the aggressive nature of the pad as to how much cut you'll need, so choose wisely. As they say, start with less - u can always step it up.

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                  • #10
                    Re: M105 and working area

                    Yes, #105 was re-formulated to work better... but still not the first choice.
                    2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

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                    • #11
                      Re: M105 and working area

                      I'm new to the forum and ALL of the products. However, I have been using a PC and a Flex for quite awhile. To me, using a foam pad, a 2x2 test area is just perfect. It gives you more room to "work" the area ~ horizontal/verical.

                      You can take a microfiber towel ~ single soft or double if you want to ~ wrap it around the PC, ensuring you are not blocking the exhaust port. Once your product is dry and ready to be wiped off, use that method. Very light pressure, no dust and it will give out one super shine. Or, you can also just take a M/F towel and wipe product off by hand.

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                      • #12
                        Re: M105 and working area

                        Using my PC and a foam pad, I prime the pad by putting 3, no more than 4 pea sized drops on the pad. Not on the outside of the pad, not in the direct center. Then taking the PC with primed pad, I "dab" the area I'm working to keep the product from flying all over the place. You can also "rub" the pad on your area and get the same results. I'm therefore using less product and getting better results than if I put product on by using the X.

                        I should back up a little here. "Before or even after I have the product on the pad, I take detail spray and "mist" the pad, using an ever so small shot of it. Additionally, if I should put to much product on a pad and can feel it's not cutting right, I again just give it one very quick mist of DS. Additionally, if your pad is becoming clogged with to much product or is drying out, I take a small, plastic brush. While running the pad I start in the middle of it with this brush and gently drag it to the outside of the pad. One or two swipes with this brush is sufficent.

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                        • #13
                          Re: M105 and working area

                          I realize there are many opinions on the size of your test area. However, I have always used a 2x2. Gives me more room to work the product. If using a foam pad is gumming up on you then, just my opinion, but you are using way to much product. As I said in a post below. Put three but no more than four pea sized drops on a foam pad. Again, not on the very outside of the pad, not directly in the middle ~ evenly space them out between the center and edge of the pad.

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                          • #14
                            Re: M105 and working area

                            Again, I'm new to this forum. I have to say that in all my short years of detailing, I have never used any water while working any area. With a new foam pad, sometimes you may get a little dusting. Also if you want more working time, give your pad a very small "mist" of detail spray. This will break down the product that you have in your pad and actually give you a lot more working time. Do a little testing with the DS because if you spray to much on, you will then have more product flying all over the place than you really want.

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