ColorX, #7, & #26 (appearance and layering)

[bitz]

I always wanted nicest appearance as possible on my white S2000.
I used to layer NXT Tech Wax over ColorX and itself but recently
learned it has cleaning agents in it and is not layerable. Also, Carnauba
is more effective than polymers when its aboutshine & gloss. Since I do
wash and wax my car once every week I do not see the durablity as my
important factor. I care more about the looks.So from many research I
ended up with this combination:
NXT Wash, Clay, ColorX, #7, #26, and #26 again.

The thing I am worrying right now is if #26 is layerable. I know #7 is
pure polish and does not have any cleaning agents in it but how about
#26? I do want to layer it up on ColorX and #26 itself.

Came out long but I would really appreciate any information.

[Boss_429]

bitz,

I'm sure when Mike sees this post, he will point you to his thread on the highly debated topic of "layering". Anyhow, until he does, here's a couple of points on your questions, and my take on the subject...........

First, if you wax your vehicle that frequently, and you're not concerned about durability/protection, I'm not quite sure why you are concerned about layering. IMHO, after 2 or 3 layers of just about "anything", you don't see much improvement in the appearance.

Secondly, I think the combo you researched will work fine. I also think you could continue with the NXT......... and that would be fine too.

Anyhow, some other points................

NXT does have some very light cleaning ability. However, I doubt that a second layer is "completely" removing the first layer.

To my knowledge, #26 doesn't have any cleaners in it. However, I don't think one can assume that adding a second layer means that you have two "complete" layers of the product......... same thing goes for most other products.

[tripper_11]

Some of us believe in layering, some not. Megs people put 2 coats (up to 2 coats only) of NXT or #26 just to ensure complete coverage.

Notwithstanding Mike's belief that layering just leads to "diminishing returns" from subsequent applications, some people layer their LSP to achieve better protection (if not for the appearance).

I subscribe to Mike's "diminishing returns" theory but only with respect to appearance. However, I believe applying subsequent coats creates added protection. And also, this layering theory may or may not be true depending on the LSP.

Thus, layering NXT above 2 coats is waste of time, whereas layering some other LSP (primarily designed for appearance and protection) that has no cleaners may be practicable.


To the question on #26 having cleaners:

Based on my experience "almost" all waxes have cleaners in it. The chemical composition of a wax cannot be without it since it's needed to bond with the paint. I tried many waxes including those which claims to be a pure wax. And still I discovered they have chemical cleaners. When you apply the wax using the applicator pad, you notice the darkening of the yellow pad.

These chemical cleaners are mild enough not to strip the previous coats though, unlike the cleaners present in a full-fledge paint cleaner like DC # 1. I believe this is the "mild cleaner" present in #26.

When layering 2 coats of #26, I make it a point to wait atleast 1 hour before applying the 2nd coat. This ensures that the chemicals in #26 have fully cured and bonded on the surface strong enough to withstand the super "mild" cleaners brought about by the 2nd coat.

However, the chemical cleaners in NXT is stronger than that which is in #26.

Hope this makes sense!

[bitz]

Thanks for reply. Both of reply really made sense to me.
Also about if I care about protection and durability, its not
that I don't care about it at all. Just that appearance is
more important to me. And also I believe durability issue can be
coverd by more frequent waxing.
And about my layering. Reason I layer is just for self satisfaction.
I don't know about those scientific laws, but it naturally made
sense to me that from some extent it should stop layering. 2, 3
coat seems to be fine but more coat make me feel it has "more"
perfect coating.

Anyways, thanks for reply. Did help me alot.

[Tim Lingor]

Hey bitz


Whether a person believes in layering or not, you are on a site like this because you are "Car Crazy"! As such, we all do things that the rest of society may find a little extreme. But that is like any sport or hobby!

If you like to apply product often for self satisfaction, there is nothing wrong with that!

Tim

[Mike Phillips]

Here's an interesting thread on layering,

What's the deal with "Layering?"

Here's something else about layering for more protection...

I met a gentleman on Corvetteforum with at least 13 layers of a supposed layerable product on his Corvette's finish. While racing it, another car splashed mud puddle water onto the back half of his Corvette.

After the race, he noticed water spots that had etched into his Corvettes clear coat. Here's a close-up photo I captured before helping him to remove the water etchings.

Here's a general shot of the finish with water etching spots



Here's a shot of a single water etching spot



Here's a close-up of the same water etching spot above,



If you have a halfway decent monitor, and you look closely, you can see the angle of the etching in the perimeter of the spot.

The point here is, if something lands on your car's finish strong enough to etch through 2-3 applications of a quality wax or paint protectant, it's likely going to be strong enough to etch through however many layers you have supposedly built up.

Here's the same Corvette after removing the water etching spots and applying two coats of NXT Tech Wax

[bitz]

Tim > Thanks.
Mike > I was just curious if how the water spot etch in to paint. If
Im right if substance in water dried up it will get on to the paint but not
in. I read this article that when you wax your car and water beads, some
water don't fall down but sit on paint with round shape and that act
as a lens and burn the paint. Is this the issue with this corvette?

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by bitz
Mike > I was just curious if how the water spot etch in to paint. If I'm right if substance in water dried up it will get on to the paint but not in. I read this article that when you wax your car and water beads, some water don't fall down but sit on paint with round shape and that act as a lens and burn the paint. Is this the issue with this corvette?

Hi bitz,

There are two kinds of water spots,

1) Above Surface Mineral Deposits
2) Below Surface Water Spot Etchings


Type 1 water spots
If you have type 1 water spots, you can use a clay bar by hand. Clay bars are for removing above surface defects. Sometimes you may have to follow the claying process with a paint cleaner like ScratchX to completely remove all traces of where the mineral deposits attached to the finish.

Type 2 water spots
If you type 2 water spots, you can use a paint cleaner by hand, or a machine applied cleaner/polish, paint cleaner or in a worst case scenario, a compound.

Just to be clear, removing Type 2 Water Spots means removing paint. As such, you are limited as to how much paint you can remove before removing too much and going through the clear coat or in the case of a single-stage, going to far and exposing primer.

I wasn't around when the mud puddle water was splashed onto the finish of the car so I don't know how or if the water dried on the finish while in the sun. However it dried, it was plain to see the water and any chemical in the water etched into the the clear coat paint.

Mike