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I have had a couple of the same issues you have had with the M07.
For me the easiest method was to put in on with the DA polisher set on 2 with a finishing pad, so this is more like putting on wax. Or to put it on by hand.
Also dont work the product too long, 2-3 light passes is all that is really needed, then wipe the product off right away.
You will find yourself using a lot more microfiber towels to take it off as the oils seem to build up in the fibers thus making it harder to remove.
I have also noticed this product seems to be very temperature sensitive. Too hot or too cold makes a big difference in how easy it comes off. 65 degrees in a shaded garage seemed to be just right in my experience.
You might want to also try to work a smaller area, I usually do only 1/2 a panel at a time. Hope this helps.
[QUOTE= How the heck can you easily remove M07?[/QUOTE]
I have had a couple of the same issues you have had with the M07.
For me the easiest method was to put in on with the DA polisher set on 2 with a finishing pad, so this is more like putting on wax. Or to put it on by hand.
Also dont work the product too long, 2-3 light passes is all that is really needed, then wipe the product off right away.
You will find yourself using a lot more microfiber towels to take it off as the oils seem to build up in the fibers thus making it harder to remove.
I have also noticed this product seems to be very temperature sensitive. Too hot or too cold makes a big difference in how easy it comes off. 65 degrees in a shaded garage seemed to be just right in my experience.
You might want to also try to work a smaller area, I usually do only 1/2 a panel at a time. Hope this helps.
I am sure Mike applied just the right amount on the DVD. Been a while since I watched it.
I have no doubt he did, the man sorta knows what he's doing!!!
But for anyone who's never used M07 that process can be an exercise in frustration. Our call center constantly receives calls from people who have applied it, or even a paint cleaner, in a typically overly thick coat to the whole car and just can't get it off once it's dry.
It can be really hard to convey the meaning of a "thin coat" in words, but telling someone to work an 18" x 18" (or whatever size) area for a minute or so and then wiping off while still wet is pretty straightforward.
I believe Mike shows using #7 on the How to PC DVD. I belive he applied it to the whole car, came around the whole car for a rough wipe, then the whole car for a finishing wipe.
That process can work if, and only if, you use M07 very sparingly. Most people tend to overuse products so we tend to shy away from suggesting this "whole car" process with M07. If you've ever used it and found it to be difficult to remove, as John did a couple of posts up, you can only imagine how hard it would be to wipe off if applied too heavily to the whole car.
John, since M07 is so oil rich, you should apply it sparingly and just to small areas at a time, then wipe off while still wet. Yes, it will grab on the towel a bit, so don't try to get it all off in the initial wipe. Break the surface, so to speak, with the initial wipe and then continue to gently remove product until it's gone.
M16 is a great product for learning how to apply a proper, thin coat of wax! Apply it a bit too heavy and removal can be a bugger. This is one of the few wax products that we'll recommend using just one panel at a time, unless you are very adept at applying very, very thin coats.
I believe Mike shows using #7 on the How to PC DVD. I belive he applied it to the whole car, came around the whole car for a rough wipe, then the whole car for a finishing wipe.
M07 is a pure polish that offers no protection and will not last long at all if not sealed with a wax or synthetic sealant. It is primarily a gloss enhance, which you seem to have discovered with excellent results!
So, you really do want to apply a wax or sealant over it. But which one you go with is going to be a very personal thing. M16 is a fantastic hard carnauba that many people still love, even though it was discontinued a few years back. NXT Tech Wax 2.0 is technically our longest lasting, best protecting product. Being a synthetic product it may impart a bit more of a bright shine, rather than a typical "deep, wet" carnauba look. Again, so much of this is personal perception and preference. It's hard to go wrong either way, and you'll find supporters and detractors of any combination - NXT, Gold Class, M16, M26, M21, etc.
Thank you all for your responses!
Michael, what I'm after is the wet look. Would using the Gold Class be ok?
M07 is a pure polish that offers no protection and will not last long at all if not sealed with a wax or synthetic sealant. It is primarily a gloss enhance, which you seem to have discovered with excellent results!
So, you really do want to apply a wax or sealant over it. But which one you go with is going to be a very personal thing. M16 is a fantastic hard carnauba that many people still love, even though it was discontinued a few years back. NXT Tech Wax 2.0 is technically our longest lasting, best protecting product. Being a synthetic product it may impart a bit more of a bright shine, rather than a typical "deep, wet" carnauba look. Again, so much of this is personal perception and preference. It's hard to go wrong either way, and you'll find supporters and detractors of any combination - NXT, Gold Class, M16, M26, M21, etc.
Glad you brought all of this up, Mike. I used M07 and M16 for the first time yesterday and I have a a question and some comments pertinent to this thread.
1. How the heck can you easily remove M07? I polished one panel at a time, but when it came time for wipeoff (before the M07 had dried), it just grabbed at my Supreme Shine and Ultimate Wipe towels and bunched them up. I finally ended up removing it with a microfiber bonnet/cutting pad/DA, but even then I had to go back and buff it again with a Supreme Shine towel. Any shortcuts?
2. M16 - same issue but I figured this one out. My first application was too heavy and the wax residue was a bear to remove. I have the paste wax and I used my DA and a 4" finishing pad to apply, but noticed two things:
A: Spinning the pad in the wax tin, even at low speed, had the effect of liquefying the wax. Won't do that again.
B: Just like polishes, make sure the DA has stopped spinning before lifting the waxed pad from the surface. Not only did I get splatter, but it was tougher to remove than dried M105!
M07 is a pure polish that offers no protection and will not last long at all if not sealed with a wax or synthetic sealant. It is primarily a gloss enhance, which you seem to have discovered with excellent results!
So, you really do want to apply a wax or sealant over it. But which one you go with is going to be a very personal thing. M16 is a fantastic hard carnauba that many people still love, even though it was discontinued a few years back. NXT Tech Wax 2.0 is technically our longest lasting, best protecting product. Being a synthetic product it may impart a bit more of a bright shine, rather than a typical "deep, wet" carnauba look. Again, so much of this is personal perception and preference. It's hard to go wrong either way, and you'll find supporters and detractors of any combination - NXT, Gold Class, M16, M26, M21, etc.
If I am using Gold Class Wax I generally skip M07 because because Gold Class serves the function of both a wax and a polish. M07 is best paired with M26 Hi Tech Yellow Wax.
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