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**Mike Phillips** · Nov 26, 2004, 11:12 AM

Re: Best method of removing #80

Originally posted by RamAirV1
What is the best method of removal, by hand with an Ultimate Wipe, or by PC with an Ultimate bonnet? Or are both methods equal as far as ease of removal and gloss produced?

I always use an Ultimate Wipe and remove cleaner/polishes like the #80 Speed Glaze by hand.

You can try removing it with a bonnet I don't know that I've ever tried this because I always remove this product by hand. For removing products with the dual action polisher, you do want to use the 5.0 setting and press firmly with the polisher.

Good luck and have fun...

Mike

**RamAirV1** · Nov 26, 2004, 01:11 PM

Mike, thanks for the fast reply! The Ultimate Wipe sounds like the best choice, since I don't need to wait for the #80 to dry, I really want to remove it while it is still wet. The #80 could very well start to dry while I am changing pads and bonnets.

If I remember right, the PC should be set to about 3.0 for applying Tech Wax with a finishing pad.

I will definitely use the Ultimate Bonnet (on a clean polishing pad) with the PC to remove the Tech Wax, with the speed set to 5.0.

RamAirV1

**rusty bumper** · Nov 26, 2004, 01:50 PM

You'll love the ease of use, and the gloss that you get from using #80...The product doesn't dry that fast either from my viewpoint.

Great product IMO.

**onawrxhigh** · Nov 27, 2004, 02:19 PM

removing #80

hey ramairv1,

when i have used speed glaze i used one of meguiars 100% cotton towels then if needed i would go over it with a microfiber. i was using the cotton towel becuase the product could load up on the towel pretty quick andone 16x16 ultimate wipe will get used up guick.

andy

**rusty bumper** · Nov 27, 2004, 04:53 PM

Re: removing #80

Originally posted by onawrxhigh
hey ramairv1,

when i have used speed glaze i used one of meguiars 100% cotton towels then if needed i would go over it with a microfiber. i was using the cotton towel becuase the product could load up on the towel pretty quick andone 16x16 ultimate wipe will get used up guick.

andy

I agree with that too.

**RamAirV1** · Nov 27, 2004, 08:10 PM

The Meguairs 100% cotton towels are very good for glaze removal. No scratching with them either.

I used the #80 last night and am very happy with it. Removal was very easy, even better than MPPP. It leaves a very slick, high gloss finish. It removed 98% of the swirl marks.

I like the idea of being able to combine the cleaning and polishing steps when the product works as well as #80 does. It looks like #81 is not required after the use of #80. I tried some #81 after #80 on a few sections and did not see any difference.

For now, I'm making #80 my goto polish too. In most cases #83 is not required unless you have moderate swirls.

The fact that #80 provides some protection on new paint sufaces is an added plus.

RamAirV1

**rusty bumper** · Nov 27, 2004, 08:19 PM

#80 has become my favorite product for now.

**jetta18T** · Jan 2, 2005, 08:01 AM

I'm anxious to try some out as soon as it gets here...it sounds like everybody has had great results. Anybody ever have any problems with the product causing scratches in the surface? I was reading a post and it said that it's filled with TS oils that will lubricate the surface and prevent things like this though. Just curious to hear from anybody that has used it before.

**RamAirV1** · Jan 2, 2005, 08:44 AM

I've never had problems with #80 scratching. I use foam applicator pads by hand and the yellow foam polishing pad for PC application. You can use high quality 100% cotton towels for or (preferably) Ulitmate Wipe MF towels for removal by hand and the Ultimate Bonnets for removal by PC. Removal of #80 by hand is fine and that way you don't have to keep switching pads and bonnets if you are doing more than one section.

RamAirV1

**tripper_11** · Jan 3, 2005, 04:07 AM

Originally posted by jetta18T
I'm anxious to try some out as soon as it gets here...it sounds like everybody has had great results. Anybody ever have any problems with the product causing scratches in the surface? I was reading a post and it said that it's filled with TS oils that will lubricate the surface and prevent things like this though. Just curious to hear from anybody that has used it before.

#80 causing scratches?

first things first:

#80 speed glaze contains abrasives, and is actually intended to eliminate light swirls. you do this by cutting a little (very little) of the thickness of your paint to produce an even surface free of scratches and swirls.

so will it scratch the surface? yes it will, because it acts like cutting on the thickness of the paint. It happens when you don't brake the abrasives completely. i hope this makes sense. on the other hand, #80 speed glaze is rich on TS oils and contains some paintable polymers (which i really love).

after cutting a very very very little surface on the paint, the upper layer which is now leveled (or the "even" surface) will be covered with paintable polymers coupled and TS oils, which produces the ultimate glaze. (ultimate for me

)

HOWEVER:

I've tried applying #80 by hand. (as per Mike's explanation). shake it well, until it feels like a hand lotion, and apply using foam applicator, as GENTLY (eliminating pressure) as possible to spread the product. I do one panel at a time. and remove with micro fiber, buffing it again GENTLY as I can.

THE DRAWBACK:

cutting power is reduced to the bare minimum (if not eliminated).

now you would ask me, why use #80 without the cutting power?

the looks!

**Mike Phillips** · Jan 3, 2005, 06:52 AM

Allow me to add a few things to what tripper_11 wrote,

Originally posted by tripper_11
#80 causing scratches?

first things first:

#80 speed glaze contains abrasives, and is actually intended to eliminate light swirls. you do this by cutting a little (very little) of the thickness of your paint to produce an even surface free of scratches and swirls.

#80 contains, diminishing abrasive. There are a lot of different types of abrasives in the world, some are very hard like Silicon Carbide while others types of abrasives can be very soft, water for example can be used as an abrasive under the right conditions but to touch it while at rest it is liquid soft.

Meguiar's pioneered the use of diminishing abrasives from their very inception when they introduced cleaners for cleaning finished wood furniture in 1901. They carried the technology of using diminishing abrasives in their automotive paint cleaners when they introduced automotive products in the mid-1920's.

so will it scratch the surface? yes it will, because it acts like cutting on the thickness of the paint. It happens when you don't brake the abrasives completely. i hope this makes sense.

We don't like to use the term scratch because it has a real negative connotation to it and scratching is something that traditional non-diminishing abrasive do. Meguiar's diminishing abrasives are embodied in a rich, lubrication film which cushions or buffers their abrading action. If they are used correctly, then as you work them against the finish they will abrade the finish and remove small particles of paint in an effort to remove the defect. But, and this is key, as they are worked against the surface and while they are abrading the surface, these diminishing abrasives will breakdown and as they are breaking-down, and each little diminishing abrasive is getting smaller, they will remove their own marks and do what is refereed to as polish-out, as in polish-out their own marks.

Incorrectly used, then yes it's possible that diminishing abrasives will leave behind their own abrasion marks. This is a problem that happens when people don't work the product against the finish long enough.

on the other hand, #80 speed glaze is rich on TS oils and contains some paintable polymers (which i really love).

This is true, #80 Speed Glaze is rich in polishing oils.

after cutting a very very very little surface on the paint, the upper layer which is now leveled (or the "even" surface) will be covered with paintable polymers coupled and TS oils, which produces the ultimate glaze. (ultimate for me )

HOWEVER:

I've tried applying #80 by hand. (as per Mike's explanation). shake it well, until it feels like a hand lotion, and apply using foam applicator, as GENTLY (eliminating pressure) as possible to spread the product. I do one panel at a time. and remove with micro fiber, buffing it again GENTLY as I can.

THE DRAWBACK:

cutting power is reduced to the bare minimum (if not eliminated).

This is true, hand application will never be as effective at removing defects as a machine applied process.

now you would ask me, why use #80 without the cutting power?

the looks!

This is very true also. The diminishing abrasives used in #80 Speed Glaze are gentle enough that this product can be used like a pure polish to add beauty with a little bit of protection.

Hope this helps...

Mike

**tripper_11** · Jan 3, 2005, 05:17 PM

thanks Mike for clearing things!

and yes, sorry for using the term "scratch." let me correct myself, what i really mean is to polish the surface

but all in all, for me #80 simply the best! seemed like a "multi-purpose" product!

**jetta18T** · Jan 17, 2005, 06:20 PM

Ok so I used #80 today on my brother's black VW Golf after washing and claying and all i have to say is WOW. This stuff is amazing. I was a little skeptical at first but it worked perfectly. Took 99% of the swirls out and left an amazing finish. The oils really help to enhance the gloss, especially when used before NXT. All I know is that this is probably one of my new favorites and I'm going to have to use it a lot more.

**Tim Lingor** · Jan 17, 2005, 09:40 PM

Hey jetta18T

Glad to hear everything turned out!

Now, top the #80 with 2 coats of NXT. You will LOVE what you see!!

Tim

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