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  • M105 questions

    I am painting some underhood sheetmetal for my car. I am painting them single stage urethane black (3 coats) followed by 2 coats of a high solids urethane clear. I then wet sand the clear with 600 grit wet. I am then adding an additional 2 coats of the same high solids urethane clear. I am letting it the clear dry for 24 hours. At that time, I am wet sanding the pieces with 1500 wet and then 2000 wet using a Dura Block hard rubber sanding block (water and a bit of soap).

    Since the pieces I am painting are relatively small, I am using a generic 3 inch diamter buffing pad set along with the Harbor Freight type chicago Electric rotory buffer/sander. The buffing pad set comes with a tan wool pad, a yellow wool (at least I think they are wool?) pad, a yellow foam pad and a black foam pad.

    After my 2000 grit wetsanding, I am using the Meguiars M105 and the tan wool pad. I have the rotary buffer set at about 1500-2000 rpms. It is buffing pretty good but when finished I can still see some of the 1500 or 2000 sanding scratches in the paint. Sometimes I have to tilt the piece at different angles to pick up the sanding scratches but they are still visible. I also am using the M82 polish after the 105 on the yellow foam pad and it brings out the shine and takes away some swirl marks but at certain angles the sanding scratches are still there. Ive tried using the different foam pads and the yellow wool pad with the M82 and not really seeing any difference. Ive also slowed down the rotary buffer with the M105 and added a bit of water etc. IVe tried about every possibly combination I can think of with the M105, buffer and pads and I am not seeing any better results. My M105 is about a year old so I shook the bottle for about 1 minute and tried again with no real improvement. When the M105 comes out of the bottle it does come out with some noticeable sized grit balls......the last time I used it was a year ago and I cannot remember if that is how it came out then or not. Can the M105 go bad after sitting for about a year?

    I also have a MeGuiars maroon 7-8 " foam pad that I also tried with the M105 on a small section of the piece. THe maroon foam pad and the M105 didnt really show any improvement in removing the sanding scratches as compared to the 3 inch tan wool pad and the M105.

    I should add that it was hot out here in Seattle yesterday when I used the 105....like 90 degrees hot.....not sure how hot my black pieces were and not sure how the heat effects how 105 works....but thought it worth mentioning. So, I am looking for any help or recommendations in this matter. I am not sure if my process is poor, or if there is something going on with the paint or what......any help is appreciated.

  • #2
    Re: M105 questions

    Well keep in mind that the difference between brands of wet sanding paper can be quite large. One brand's 2,500 grit can leave a far nastier surface with more tracers than another brand's 2,000 grit!

    You may want to see if you can get your hands on some 3,000 grit Meguiar's Unigrit sandpaper. It is one of (if not the) most uniform papers on the market. You can order it from www.autodetailingsolutions.com if you can not find it locally.

    That should hopefully solve the sanding mark issues.

    As for M105 going bad, it shouldn't do so in a year unless it was exposed to extreme temperatures, in which case it is possible.

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    • #3
      Re: M105 questions

      Honestly though.....I went with the M105 cause it said it takes out the 1200 grit scratches and thus by buffing with the 105 I didnt think I should need to sand all the way up to 3000 grit.

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      • #4
        Re: M105 questions

        Whoa -4 coats of a 3 part clear over 3 coats of a SS paint?

        Thats a lot of paint...make sure to allow proper flash and curing time. You may end up with a mess there.

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