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Difference between #85, #95 and #105 (effect and post treatment)

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  • Difference between #85, #95 and #105 (effect and post treatment)

    Hi guys !

    I use my Makita 9227CB rotary with #85 on LC cutting pad followed by LC light cutting pad to remove 2000grid sanding marks.

    After that I use #83 on LC polishing pad finished by #82 on finishing pad.

    But, #85 takes a lot of steps to remove the 2000grid sanding marks and so it takes a lot of work, time and polish. So I've asked myself, what is better than #85 to do the job ?

    Now, I've read that #105 removes 1200grid sanding marks easily - first heavy cutting level 12 and then when the residue has broken down you only have to use a light polish to get a perfect finish.

    1.) Does that mean that after using #105 I can skip #83 and go to #82?

    2.) #105 on cutting, followed by #82 on finishing OR polishing Pad ?

    3.) What's the function of #95 ? (it also has cutting level 10 like #85)
    Is #95 equal to #85 ? What's the difference ?

    Thanks !

    Bye !

    Zauche

  • #2
    Re: Difference between #85, #95 and #105 (effect and post treatment)

    X2 ^^^^

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Difference between #85, #95 and #105 (effect and post treatment)

      M105 can leave very nice shine if used properly. So, you can use M82 right after 105. I would probably use polishing pad with M82 in this case, but you can try finishing pad to see how it does.

      Both M105 and M95 are both SMAT. The M85 is older version of DAT. I haven't used M95 yet, so I can't give you exact difference in between M105 and M95. However, I have heard that M95 is more oily or thicker than M105, and can work better in higher temp. environment.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Difference between #85, #95 and #105 (effect and post treatment)

        M85 is a diminishing abrasive so it breaks down while using it. If you short cycle M85 it won't break down fully and you end up with sort of a scoured surface - used correctly, however, it's very good stuff.

        M105 uses super micro abrasive technology (SMAT) and offers more cut than M85. Because of the type of abrasive it not only cuts faster than M85 but tends to leave a much nicer finish in the process.

        M95 is also a SMAT product like M105 and has cut similar to M105 (it's stronger than M85). Where it differs from M105 is in look and feel - it's got more of an "old school" drag feel to it. To a new user that really means nothing, but to someone who's been doing this for decades and is used to the look and feel of products like M85 and M84, this may feel more "normal" to them. In a head to head comparison with M105, however, it probably won't finish out quite as nicely.

        Now, you're removing sanding marks - have you ever tried using a wool pad for this first step? A wool pad like our W5000 will cut faster than a foam cutting pad and generate less heat in the process. With M105 we are usually able to go straight to M205 (or M82) even after using a wool pad. We understand that in Europe it is much more common to use a foam cutting pad than wool, so that is your preference, then so be it. Still, we'd recommend going with M105 for your initial cut. Unless and until you can get your hands on our new M101 and Foam Compounding Pad that we just released for the European market.
        Michael Stoops
        Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

        Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Difference between #85, #95 and #105 (effect and post treatment)

          The original post is 2.5 years old, so he probably isn't too concerned with this right now, but good info!

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Difference between #85, #95 and #105 (effect and post treatment)

            Yeah, sorry for reviving something this old, but I always like to search before posting, and this guy had the same questions about 95 vs 85... I got my answer!

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Difference between #85, #95 and #105 (effect and post treatment)

              Originally posted by CHzo6 View Post
              The original post is 2.5 years old, so he probably isn't too concerned with this right now, but good info!
              Well look at the goof ball who got caught by the "old revived thread" slip up and didn't realize it.......... ME!!!!!

              Originally posted by gijoe985 View Post
              Yeah, sorry for reviving something this old, but I always like to search before posting, and this guy had the same questions about 95 vs 85... I got my answer!
              And that's what saved me from total and complete embarrassment..... Happy to help, Joe!!!
              Michael Stoops
              Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

              Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Difference between #85, #95 and #105 (effect and post treatment)

                still good ...... I was wondering about M95 since I have never tried it, or heard much discussion on it.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Difference between #85, #95 and #105 (effect and post treatment)

                  well i just bought some of this stuff (Meguiars #80 Professional Speed Glaze) what can ya'll tell me about this? i have some verious serious water spots on my 2004 silverado. i will be using some lake county yellow pads on a DA polisher to apply.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Difference between #85, #95 and #105 (effect and post treatment)

                    Bummer I didnt find this post prior to buying the M85. Its not fully removing all the sanding marks, even with multiple applications. Looks like I should have started with M105. Also the M85 has now left circular scratches in the paint, and using M02 is not removing them. What product will remove them?
                    I applied the M85 with wool pad and the M02 with foam pad. This is a black car with clear coat. The image is awesome, but looking at it straight on, you can see the scratches.....
                    Ken

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Difference between #85, #95 and #105 (effect and post treatment)

                      Originally posted by jef0071 View Post
                      well i just bought some of this stuff (Meguiars #80 Professional Speed Glaze) what can ya'll tell me about this? i have some verious serious water spots on my 2004 silverado. i will be using some lake county yellow pads on a DA polisher to apply.
                      M80 is fairly mild, but it also contains a lot of polishing oils so it can do wonders for adding gloss while removing light defects. Ultimate Compound from our consumer line offers a lot more defect removal ability so you might want to look into that if M80 doesn't quite cut it for you. (pun intended)

                      Originally posted by kenn1320 View Post
                      Bummer I didnt find this post prior to buying the M85. Its not fully removing all the sanding marks, even with multiple applications. Looks like I should have started with M105. Also the M85 has now left circular scratches in the paint, and using M02 is not removing them. What product will remove them?
                      I applied the M85 with wool pad and the M02 with foam pad. This is a black car with clear coat. The image is awesome, but looking at it straight on, you can see the scratches.....
                      Ken
                      Assuming you did this with a rotary buffer, right?

                      For removing the sanding marks, what speed were you running the buffer at? What was the finest grit sand paper you used? You may need 1800 rpm to pull 1000 grit marks with M85, depending on the paint, and you may need a couple of passes at that.

                      As for the marks that M85 left behind, it could be that you "short cycled" M85, meaning you did not fully break down the diminishing abrasives in it, which would leave the finish looking almost scoured. The quality of your wool pad will play a role in this too.

                      M02 on a foam pad leaves a lot of options for us - foam cutting pad, polishing pad or finishing pad? What speed? How much time?

                      If you short cycled M85 you could have some fairly severe defects to remove and M02 on a soft finishing pad at a fairly slow speed most likely won't quite take them all out. But since you've still got sanding marks left over, it's not quite time yet to step down to a less aggressive product.

                      M85 should be able to remove the sanding marks, provided they aren't too aggressive in their own right. Yes, M105 will likely do it faster and leave a nicer finish in the process - one that is usually easily refined with M205 on either a polishing or finishing pad.
                      Michael Stoops
                      Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

                      Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

                      Comment

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